No the dooes arnt structual. Althogh door bars on rollcage is advised. There is still loads left. I just sit inside my shell and look. And somethibgs are not as obvious as others? Sunroof? People fit csrbon or alloy plates, romove the glass etc. Lucky if u havent got a sunroof.. Swap mirrors for light weight ones?
Track day upgrades?
- Thread starter STEVEN878
- Start date
I don't have a sun roof 
i didn't mean the door were structural i meant the crash bars offer some sort of protection, while i have no cage fitted.
think ill need to sit in the car stroking the grinder looking for the next bit to cut off. Lol
my car inside looks similar to stu666 car inside on page 9 of his blog (first pic i think) but i have removed all the fuel pump sender covers.
i didn't mean the door were structural i meant the crash bars offer some sort of protection, while i have no cage fitted.
think ill need to sit in the car stroking the grinder looking for the next bit to cut off. Lol
my car inside looks similar to stu666 car inside on page 9 of his blog (first pic i think) but i have removed all the fuel pump sender covers.
You'll struggle to get under 1100kg without spending a load of money that would have been better spent elsewhere! My car is 1170kg (empty fuel tank) with a fibreglass bonnet, 5kg each bucket seats, and wind up windows. Its still got a full interior and the only other bit i've taken off is the cast iron aircon bracket on the front of the engine. Oh and its got a mongoose exhaust so no backbox.
If i was you i'd forget about weight saving and get out there and drive it, even better would be to get an instructor to sit in with you on a trackday. That'll make more difference than knocking off another few kg ever will ;-)
If i can get the car to around 1100kg ill be happy, but already looking at poly windows, etc.
Dont worry about trackday training i know one of the old instructors at knockhill, so im sure he will help out
Don't get too hung up on reaching a certain kg weight for the car, just strip out what you can and call it a day otherwise you'll just go mad.
GRP panels and plastic windows would be the next excellent option.
Granted it costs money to do these things, but when you've stripped most of what you can get out of the car it then costs to make it lighter.
Plastic windows would be the 1st step (half the weight of the glass equivalents) and if you can spend more £££'s with out the other half knowing GRP panels. :thumb:
GRP panels and plastic windows would be the next excellent option.
Granted it costs money to do these things, but when you've stripped most of what you can get out of the car it then costs to make it lighter.
Plastic windows would be the 1st step (half the weight of the glass equivalents) and if you can spend more £££'s with out the other half knowing GRP panels. :thumb:
red reading
Active Member
Best advice I have seen to give someone, funny how everyone buys them rather than make them.
I don't know what the flat metal bonnet weighs if that's the bonnet you mean, but the gtir bonnet is 16.5kgish and a lightweight one can be as little as 4.5kg. Windows will save you around 9kg for the 5.
The advantage with buying the windows is they are moulded to the same shape as the origionals, not just flat. I don't know how much cosmetic difference that will make as I don't think I've seen any diy ones fitted.
The advantage with buying the windows is they are moulded to the same shape as the origionals, not just flat. I don't know how much cosmetic difference that will make as I don't think I've seen any diy ones fitted.
A friend said he made his for a corsa from 3mm poly for next to nothing and told me to do the same, but i thought that would be rough.
might have to remove a window and have a go.
warpspeed
Well-Known Member
I made a set for our track crx, not difficult if you take your time.
If you have to drill any holes put masking tape on first and work your way up with the drill sizes, drill at a high speed though.
I found a very fine downcutting blade on the jigsaw best but I cut mine on top of a slab of polystyrene so maybe not the best for working on a bench.
Tiger seal worked week for bonding them in.
I'm gonna try and make a rear window mould for making polycarbonate replacements, no sure how well it'll work but will find out soon....
If you have to drill any holes put masking tape on first and work your way up with the drill sizes, drill at a high speed though.
I found a very fine downcutting blade on the jigsaw best but I cut mine on top of a slab of polystyrene so maybe not the best for working on a bench.
Tiger seal worked week for bonding them in.
I'm gonna try and make a rear window mould for making polycarbonate replacements, no sure how well it'll work but will find out soon....
Bandsaw is what you want, absolutely brilliant. Anyway, the ones you buy (in my experience) are flat, except the rear window, which I wouldnt even try to diy....Slider kits are an absolute breeze, if you have or know someonee who has a milling machine....
The problem with jigsaws is the heat. As you get impatient you up the speed so the plastic gets hot, then welds itself back up behind the blade.
The problem with jigsaws is the heat. As you get impatient you up the speed so the plastic gets hot, then welds itself back up behind the blade.
There are more suppliers out there than you would think. I use Bay Plastics, but you will have one within 10 miles, probably. Not sure I agree about drill speed. I use a small battery drill with new drill bits relatively slowly. Doing square internal holes is a good test of your chain drilling techique....
Im from edinburgh mate.
Ill have a go at making a side window first and go from there;-)