Raising the compression?

M

mascot

Guest
cant remember of top of my head where exactly i got liners from i purchased them while on holiday in florida think i payed around £300 of top of my head and i have used darton liners

just make sure if you go for it make sure who ever fitting your liners are very experinced in fitting them as there a **** for failing

hope u got plenty of money though u will need it lol when i worked my budget out i new it would be expensive but its now double what i first thought

in my opinion i would just go forged engine for anything around the 500bhp area if your looking to go over well over that go for it fit the stroker not trying to put you of by any means just a 2.3l engine needs a big turbo on realy to make any use of it at all

like said before on a small turbo you could suffer due to the displacment of th engine

if it was my money i wouldnt be using a qauife on a sort of engine like the 2.3 as its going to produce tourqe and big bhp numbers i split my qauife only using a 3071r turbo

hardist part is keeping it all held together anybody can make big numbers if it last is another question the gearbox is going to be your main factor realy and if you go for ppg etc its no longer a road car just a track wepon depends what u wont from the car realy
 
mattytappy

mattytappy

New Member
Thanks for the info mascot;-) .....lots of food for thought there....im still a while away from even getting my old shed on the road even now.....but ive seen these and they look a bargain but as you and bobby and ashills have said its just the begining and there is alot of other stuff involved in the build as well.
Not just the engine but the transmission as well is a big issue and a costly one at that:doh: .

So in hindsite are you saying you wish you never went down this route and built a tryed and tested 450/500 bhp pulsar and left it at that:) .lol

I mean we have all got to be slightly off the wall to own one of these old buckets anyways:lol: :lol:

What transmission are you planning on running and what power levels bhp/blft are you kind off expecting from your set up
 
S

sumo

New Member
that kit only giv u the 89 mm pistons and u.ll hav to retap the flywheel bolts as well i hav used bc cams and valve springs and they top stuff
 
MORF114

MORF114

Active Member
Quaife customer service is crap i had a problem with a machining error on my input shaft and quaife didnt want to know at all.

As for a ppg selector fork get it from horsepower in a box much cheaper than apex.
 
M

mascot

Guest
mattytappy said:
Thanks for the info mascot;-) .....lots of food for thought there....im still a while away from even getting my old shed on the road even now.....but ive seen these and they look a bargain but as you and bobby and ashills have said its just the begining and there is alot of other stuff involved in the build as well.
Not just the engine but the transmission as well is a big issue and a costly one at that:doh: .

So in hindsite are you saying you wish you never went down this route and built a tryed and tested 450/500 bhp pulsar and left it at that:) .lol

I mean we have all got to be slightly off the wall to own one of these old buckets anyways:lol: :lol:

What transmission are you planning on running and what power levels bhp/blft are you kind off expecting from your set up
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not sure on power figures to be honest and not to fussed am not chasing numbers tryed that before and within 6months someone has built something better so no point realy and there is a few big cars been built at the moment which should see bigger numbers than i am after realy lol

as for gearbox i havnt orded one as of yet leaning more towards ppg realy as have broke a qauilfe before and had nothing but trouble with the par

i would think around 350-370 mark with quaife box is more than enough for a road going car well thats only my opinion i manged to nearly lose my licence so had to resort to driving a suzuki swift as a daily drive and just keep the pulsar for the track hence trying to make it more of a track car than a fast road car realy
 
N

noriek2003

New Member
darton sleeves for the sr20 are approx £180 ($360) not including shipping/duties. Then you need to find someone that will fit them. The nearest place i found to us in kent is gosnays in romford but expect to pay 1k+ for them fitted, bored and the block prep'd. That doesn't include putting togther the bottom end as they are not builders. Alot of people that could do them wont touch them due to the newer design of the stepped sleeve which prevents them dropping and the hassle of getting the block machined to take them.

Matty, what do you want to do with the car ? If all you want is a quick road car forget the stroker, forget over boring just build a good solid 2ltr, its easily done and cheap. A good reliable 400bhp gtir is not any hassle to do, neither a stroked crank or over boring are worth the extra money or hassle over a 2ltr imho for probably 99% of the people that own gtirs.

If your going for out and out power be honest with yourself as to whether its something you really want/are capable of achieving and when its done, maintaining to a high standard. Theres been god knows how many people that start a thread saying they're going to have this, that and the other but, where are all the finished cars ? sold off in bits on ebay before they're finished is where :lol: when they realise they didn't really want to put in excess of probably 15k into a car thats ultimately worthless.

do you honestly want to spend a whole load of time and money on a car thats destined to get sold off in pieces for feck all when compared to what it cost you ?

if you do, good luck ;) if you dont, do yourself a favour and buy an evo :lol:
 
mattytappy

mattytappy

New Member
noriek2003 said:
darton sleeves for the sr20 are approx £180 ($360) not including shipping/duties. Then you need to find someone that will fit them. The nearest place i found to us in kent is gosnays in romford but expect to pay 1k+ for them fitted, bored and the block prep'd. That doesn't include putting togther the bottom end as they are not builders. Alot of people that could do them wont touch them due to the newer design of the stepped sleeve which prevents them dropping and the hassle of getting the block machined to take them.

Matty, what do you want to do with the car ? If all you want is a quick road car forget the stroker, forget over boring just build a good solid 2ltr, its easily done and cheap. A good reliable 400bhp gtir is not any hassle to do, neither a stroked crank or over boring are worth the extra money or hassle over a 2ltr imho for probably 99% of the people that own gtirs.

If your going for out and out power be honest with yourself as to whether its something you really want/are capable of achieving and when its done, maintaining to a high standard. Theres been god knows how many people that start a thread saying they're going to have this, that and the other but, where are all the finished cars ? sold off in bits on ebay before they're finished is where :lol: when they realise they didn't really want to put in excess of probably 15k into a car thats ultimately worthless.

do you honestly want to spend a whole load of time and money on a car thats destined to get sold off in pieces for feck all when compared to what it cost you ?

if you do, good luck ;) if you dont, do yourself a favour and buy an evo :lol:
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Sound advice.....ive seen these kits and thought i would ask what the general concensors was on them and buy the looks of its its not looking good and the reality is much worse than the fantasy......it seems that on top of getting the engine running and then keep in it running is the fact that the gearbox has either got to come from a layland lorry or tractor to be able to stay in one peice as well.:shock:

Odin........just break the old shed now before its too late.....you know it makes sense:thumbsup:just think with all that extra cash you could get a stair master;-) :lol: :lol: and slap a whooper of a turbo on that instead.

To be honest....im way past getting my money back with the time and money i have invested in the car....( lol, invested) wasted on the car so it seems like madness anyhow:-D :der:but as they say the devil makes work for idle hands:evil:
 
mattytappy

mattytappy

New Member
Odin said:
:doh: Has a word even been so wrong when used in the context of R ownership :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .



Rob
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .....couldnt have been more wrong:doh:
 
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campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Nissan recommend a 75W/90 GL4 on our gearbox, but don't use a GL4 on the diffs. The Quaife parts makes no difference to the oil you use.

You can use a GL5/GL4 combi like you found on the gearbox but there are complaints about crunchy synchros across various owners on various car forums in varoius countries. Ask yourself why Nissan specify a GL4 and GL5 spereately for their high performance cars that they don't want a warranty claim for when after all this time they could use a combo? The advantage of a combo oil is it won't kill your diff if you put in the wrong place.

My Quaife subjectively is smoother on gearchanges with the GL4.
I switched from a combo to a semi-synth and it works fine but this was mainly due to availability on a weekend. If you want to spend some money, buy some "redline oil" as they have the right spec recommended by Nissan. If you don't buy some semi-synth GL4 and change it every year... As seems normal for my car when the engine/box/clutch comes out :roll::doh::lol:
 
kenan

kenan

South West Regional Rep
That Royal Purple oils are fantastic. Lots of teh GTR boys with silly specs use them. After you have changed the oil you can send it to them and they will do analisys on it . . . not to sure what they are looking for
 
M

m.r.motorsport

Guest
how much will the car det. with normal running? if any that is. and does a nakered det sensor start to say that the engine is knocking?
 
T

turboloon

New Member
the ecu will flash up a code 34 to let you know either the det sensor is knackered or that the wiring is knackered...in my case it was a clip on the cable was missing...hey ho i replaced the det sensor but i got that from the states and was a fraction of what you pay nissan for the same part
 
T

turbodaily

New Member
the fault code will only come up when theres open circuit ie goosed sensor or wiring, so if the car is det'in i dont think a code will come up.
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
turbodaily said:
the fault code will only come up when theres open circuit ie goosed sensor or wiring, so if the car is det'in i dont think a code will come up.
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Not true.

If the ecu detects DET on enough occasions, it will throw up the 34 code.

Paul
 
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