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pulsarboby
Guest
its not the fluid carl, its definately a noisy pump!
turbodaily
New Member
if power steering fluid is low its just a case of topping it up mate
BabyGodzillaGTi-R
Member
Just copy and paste from the given website.
# Blending of TPS and MAP sensor tuning: On non-turbo and turbo engines with big cams or port work vacuum is irratic at low rpm. Therefore TPS based tuning would normally be required. But the E8 and E11v2 allow blending of TPS maps into MAP sensor tuning as the rpm and stable vacuum rises. Blended maps are particularly useful on Turbo engines with big cams as a MAP sensor is always required to tune in boost, but and the TPS maps can now provide a smooth idle, light throttle response, off-boost power and cleaner at the tailpipe.
I believe there are a few types of "load sensors" that ecu reads from to determine how much fuel/ ignition to run.
The most basic is TPS
Hot wire airflow meter MAF (like ours)
Manifold Air Pressure MAP sensor
I believe tuners prefer MAP sensor as it's less restrictive opposed to MAF.
But MAP reads pressure, so when u run extreme mods, vacuum reading becomes erratic at low rpm.
So they use TPS to compensate for that.
I believe TPS is the preferred method to tune for throttle response.
I'm no tuner, just the average rice boy( i seriously eat rice as a staple food)
(u Brits call us Max Posers) Hehehe.....
U guys got anything more to share?
# Blending of TPS and MAP sensor tuning: On non-turbo and turbo engines with big cams or port work vacuum is irratic at low rpm. Therefore TPS based tuning would normally be required. But the E8 and E11v2 allow blending of TPS maps into MAP sensor tuning as the rpm and stable vacuum rises. Blended maps are particularly useful on Turbo engines with big cams as a MAP sensor is always required to tune in boost, but and the TPS maps can now provide a smooth idle, light throttle response, off-boost power and cleaner at the tailpipe.
I believe there are a few types of "load sensors" that ecu reads from to determine how much fuel/ ignition to run.
The most basic is TPS
Hot wire airflow meter MAF (like ours)
Manifold Air Pressure MAP sensor
I believe tuners prefer MAP sensor as it's less restrictive opposed to MAF.
But MAP reads pressure, so when u run extreme mods, vacuum reading becomes erratic at low rpm.
So they use TPS to compensate for that.
I believe TPS is the preferred method to tune for throttle response.
I'm no tuner, just the average rice boy( i seriously eat rice as a staple food)
(u Brits call us Max Posers) Hehehe.....
U guys got anything more to share?
These work by being placed in the centre of your diff between the two side Spider gears.
Once it's been put in place and the whole thing re assembled you remove two retaining clips off the Phantom Grip and it springs apart putting pressure sideways against the two spider gears basicly like a clutch pressure plate.
I'm then not sure if it uses friction between the gears (now with the Phamtom Grip locked between them) or it has a LSD function inside it and now rotates in the centre of the Phantom Grip.
Hopefully will be able to answer that one when mine arrives!
But doesn't look like a lot of money to waist to try it.
Julian
Once it's been put in place and the whole thing re assembled you remove two retaining clips off the Phantom Grip and it springs apart putting pressure sideways against the two spider gears basicly like a clutch pressure plate.
I'm then not sure if it uses friction between the gears (now with the Phamtom Grip locked between them) or it has a LSD function inside it and now rotates in the centre of the Phantom Grip.
Hopefully will be able to answer that one when mine arrives!
But doesn't look like a lot of money to waist to try it.
Julian
O
Odin
Guest
Badge said:
That was my thinking to
.Even though I was the first to buy one ever here I think, It sounds like you will be running before me 8) ;-) .
Rob
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pulsarboby
Guest
julian when you get yours fitted to the box can you let me know what you think of it!
have you stripped box yet?
am thinking of trying one of these myself, when i remove engine again, but would be good to know from first hand experience, what people think of them.
and seeing as you use your car on track a lot, you sound like the ideal candidate8)
have you stripped box yet?
am thinking of trying one of these myself, when i remove engine again, but would be good to know from first hand experience, what people think of them.
and seeing as you use your car on track a lot, you sound like the ideal candidate8)
I haven't got the LSD yet, not sure if it's Camskil or Phantom grip themselves that are slow but it's a long job so far to get the information out of either.
I have a spare gearbox sat in my garage waiting for it, I just want to get it inspected and checked before it's fitted and off we go!
My interest is for how well it works on the track, will be honest and say that my wifes poor Pulsar is far faster round the track than it really has any right to be (last airfield trackday guy followed me back into the pits driving a 210bhp Caterham and made several remarks about Nissan Sunnys shouldn't go round corners like that!!!!).
But it's still losing out on getting the power down a little earlier due to power understeer.
Options are trying another suspension set up (only got adjustable Koni's and Eibach springs) which could cost a fortune or have a try with this that is a few £100.
Any other suggestions from anyone?
Suspension so far is,,,,
Every bush swapped for Nylon
Nismo solid top mounts
Camber kit (+ full track spec set up by Powerstation)
Strut braces front and rear as well as under engine
Bumpsteer Kit
Rear Subframe alinment kit
Whitelines Rear Roll bar
Adjustable Koni's
Eibach Springs
Yoko 38's for dry and Toyo Proxy's for wet
I haven't got the anti Dive kit, but will do that when the engines out for the gearbox.
Short of a fully fitted cage that mounts to the suspension uprights or stop pretending to use it as a road car and take out 200kg of crap (sounds insulation, rear seat, replace fron seat, aircon, all the sound deadening I put in for the stereo, replace battery with small rear dry cell), what does anyone suggest?
Or have I answered my own question and simply take it off the road for daily use?
Julian
I have a spare gearbox sat in my garage waiting for it, I just want to get it inspected and checked before it's fitted and off we go!
My interest is for how well it works on the track, will be honest and say that my wifes poor Pulsar is far faster round the track than it really has any right to be (last airfield trackday guy followed me back into the pits driving a 210bhp Caterham and made several remarks about Nissan Sunnys shouldn't go round corners like that!!!!).
But it's still losing out on getting the power down a little earlier due to power understeer.
Options are trying another suspension set up (only got adjustable Koni's and Eibach springs) which could cost a fortune or have a try with this that is a few £100.
Any other suggestions from anyone?
Suspension so far is,,,,
Every bush swapped for Nylon
Nismo solid top mounts
Camber kit (+ full track spec set up by Powerstation)
Strut braces front and rear as well as under engine
Bumpsteer Kit
Rear Subframe alinment kit
Whitelines Rear Roll bar
Adjustable Koni's
Eibach Springs
Yoko 38's for dry and Toyo Proxy's for wet
I haven't got the anti Dive kit, but will do that when the engines out for the gearbox.
Short of a fully fitted cage that mounts to the suspension uprights or stop pretending to use it as a road car and take out 200kg of crap (sounds insulation, rear seat, replace fron seat, aircon, all the sound deadening I put in for the stereo, replace battery with small rear dry cell), what does anyone suggest?
Or have I answered my own question and simply take it off the road for daily use?
Julian
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O
Odin
Guest
Maybe that's the answer ;-) .Badge said:
The only way of making handle better is to fit some coil overs and loose weight, I think the phantom grip should make it better under braking and faster out of the corners, If it works as it should.
My K-Sport coil overs where very good at knock hill in the dry, I would think that they are way to hard for good wet weather performance though
.If you still have the air con then I'd bin that for starters and then maybe the ABS because that's quite heavy too, I would fit a full sized battery in the boot to help spread more weight over the whole chassis though, It's already to front heavy.
You could save a bit more with a standard sunny bonnet or Carbon.
And the best way of making it faster is get a really good track teacher to show you how to get the best out of it, We can all learn something new ;-) .
Rob
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pulsarboby
Guest
Originally Posted by Badge
I have a spare gearbox sat in my garage waiting for it,
lol it was me that sold it to you on the way to castle combe, remember the one with all the problems! car that is:lol: :lol: not the box!
I have a spare gearbox sat in my garage waiting for it,
lol it was me that sold it to you on the way to castle combe, remember the one with all the problems! car that is:lol: :lol: not the box!
That's currently the bain of my life with the car too.Badge said:
I seem to remember that it wasn't anywhere near as bad when I had my bumpsteer kit fitted ?!
Maybe that's the first place to start ?!
I'll get mine back on the car, once I get some new rose joints for it !!
What sort of geometry settings are you running ?
antgtir
New Member
Hesitation between 4.0 to 5.0k revs on partial throttle?
Ive posted this up before but thought id have another go to see if anyone else has had a similar problem recently.
Basically whilst on partial throttle or loading of the engine and sat between 4 and 5k revs the car feels like it is hesitating as if an ignition problem is occuring or something else, its like a pulsing of power and you can hear the car popping throughout this period. If you hold the revs either above or below this range it doesn't seem to occur, if you put your foot to the floor and drive through that range you dont feel a thing.
Ive changed the following parts and carried out the following steps: -
Spark plugs for grade 8's
Re gapped the spark plugs incase the spark was being blown out (unlikely as im running stock)
New OE Dizzy
New OE rotor arm
New OE leads
New TMIC
Removed the HKS SSQ BOV incase of knackered spring
New Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump installed
New OE fuel filter
Fuel / injector cleaner through fuel system
Engine Fault Code Check - ok
MAF resistence check - ok
So obviously my question is, is there anything that i haven't covered that is potentially obvious and could cause my problem?
Could it be a sensor problem? coil pack problem? anything else ignition or fuelling related that could cause the same symptoms as im experiencing?
Id love to hit this problem on the head as it has plagued me for quite a while now and to say the least annoying lol:roll: :lol:
All suggestion welcome and greatfully recieved.
Ant.:-D
Ive posted this up before but thought id have another go to see if anyone else has had a similar problem recently.
Basically whilst on partial throttle or loading of the engine and sat between 4 and 5k revs the car feels like it is hesitating as if an ignition problem is occuring or something else, its like a pulsing of power and you can hear the car popping throughout this period. If you hold the revs either above or below this range it doesn't seem to occur, if you put your foot to the floor and drive through that range you dont feel a thing.
Ive changed the following parts and carried out the following steps: -
Spark plugs for grade 8's
Re gapped the spark plugs incase the spark was being blown out (unlikely as im running stock)
New OE Dizzy
New OE rotor arm
New OE leads
New TMIC
Removed the HKS SSQ BOV incase of knackered spring
New Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump installed
New OE fuel filter
Fuel / injector cleaner through fuel system
Engine Fault Code Check - ok
MAF resistence check - ok
So obviously my question is, is there anything that i haven't covered that is potentially obvious and could cause my problem?
Could it be a sensor problem? coil pack problem? anything else ignition or fuelling related that could cause the same symptoms as im experiencing?
Id love to hit this problem on the head as it has plagued me for quite a while now and to say the least annoying lol:roll: :lol:
All suggestion welcome and greatfully recieved.
Ant.:-D
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That is very odd.
Have you checked fuel pressure (at idle and when running)?
Have you checked base the ignition timing ?
Try swapping the coil with a known good one.
Are you running an after market boost controller ?
What does the boost level do at this hesitation rpm ?
Have you checked the fuel pipes for condition ?
Just a few ideas bud. I know how annoying these little issues can be, especially when you can't locate the cause.
Paul
Have you checked fuel pressure (at idle and when running)?
Have you checked base the ignition timing ?
Try swapping the coil with a known good one.
Are you running an after market boost controller ?
What does the boost level do at this hesitation rpm ?
Have you checked the fuel pipes for condition ?
Just a few ideas bud. I know how annoying these little issues can be, especially when you can't locate the cause.
Paul
As above plus the TPS could be another option. I only found out mine was stuffed from looking at logs and seeing it wasn't right. When it drops below its threshold it goes into idle.
antgtir
New Member
Many thanks for the ideas Paul i shall have a look into these, although timing wise on the R im a novice so have no idea, a bit of revision me thinks:roll: :lol:campbellju said:
Just for information i have no boost controller so its all stock, the OE gauge doesn't show any flickering in the boost during the "missing phase" its as if something is backing off or cutting out then returning, very wierd.
Jim, I have thought about the TPS being knackered as it seems to be at a certain position on throttle however the puzzeling thing is that it doesn't happen outside of the rev range stated, so ive not really looked at that, could be an option though.
Are there any other sensors such as the Lambda sensor that could cause this?
Ant.
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