Bens Engine Rebuild

bensmith907

New Member
I've not managed to get under the rocker cover yet to inspect the clearences (was ment to the other day but the mrs had other plans) I have had a screwdriver on it for a listen and as far as I can tell all the noise is coming from the injector/tb area is this still likely to be clearences?
 
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bensmith907

New Member
I would be inclined to say it was just injector noise but I'm sure it wasn't that loud before. Not only that but it gets louder when warmed up.
 

stumo

Active Member
All done. I had a few issues along the way-

Snapped the turbo actuator arm- not a bad thing really as I suspected the old one wasn't up to the job anymore! Owen developments sorted out my turbo within hours of delivering it by setting up a new forge actuator on it.



When I went to start it up the starter turned once or twice then there was a spark and a puff of smoke came out from the engine (head in my hands at this point as I was worried about all sorts of wiring problems) but after a quick inspection it turned out that the engine earth thread on the thermostat had been stripped- quick tap and a bigger bolt and it turned over perfect

When warming up I went to clean something and when I came back there was a massive water puddle on the floor :( turned out to be the water feed for the oil cooler (I didn't fit the clip on properly I'm ashamed to say) what a twat that pipe is to get to!

All in now and I just done a compression check which came out at 167, 168, 166, 169 which I'm happy with.
meant to say that the snapped actuator has done you a favour....you can get different springs for it (if you haven't got them already), you can also make it dual port if needed.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Dual port? Ill look that up some time. I have much to learn!
stumo was explaining that the other day; if you've got two vacuum/boost hoses on an actuator, you can prevent wastegate creep. - Until you reach your set point you can use the boost on the underside (?) of the diaphragm to keep it shut, then when your boost controller lets pressure go to the top (?) there is equal pressure on both sides and the spring pressure alone will open the wastegate. As a result there's no partial opening of the wastegate on partial boost, so you reach your set point faster.

I may have that slightly confused, but that's the gist of it... I think.
 

skiddusmarkus

Active Member
it should be adjustable, if you can't shorten the rod then cut some of it off
Yeah I cut a bit off but the thread doesn't go far enough up the rod to just cut it to the right length so I spaced it with 2 nuts, which pulled the rod away from the flapper and left enough thread on for it to work.
 

Mr B

Member
secondary port on bottom of solenoid assists spring in keeping wastegate shut & used with good control solenoids is a good system.
Something to ponder on while feeling up the rockers ...
 

bensmith907

New Member
Right I just adjusted the pipe work for the 1bar loop which im guessing doesn't work with an uprated actuator as I got 1.2bar....

...Im going to guess thats a bad thing on a standard ecu (under fueling maybe)?

I think it also answers another question- the spring is obviously the blue one running at 18psi
 

pulsarmoley

Member
Right I just adjusted the pipe work for the 1bar loop which im guessing doesn't work with an uprated actuator as I got 1.2bar....

...Im going to guess thats a bad thing on a standard ecu (under fueling maybe)?

I think it also answers another question- the spring is obviously the blue one running at 18psi
I reckon you have the yellow spring as i still have mine on the 1bar loop and getting 1.2bar with the forge actuator and yellow spring
 

pulsarmoley

Member
Are you not worried about it running lean on a standard ecu?
I thought about that and Bob mentioned it but I only fitted it about 2 weeks ago and have not driven it harshly yet. Im off to Ed's today for my nistune, so hopefully he will dyno it before fitting the nistune to compare the results after.
 
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