model number where to find ?
hi guys , im having a gearbox rebuilt , syncros , input shaft bearings etc ... the transmission shop have obviousley asked for chassis numbers to order parts , i have given this , now they are after a model number ... i ve looked on my v5 but there is no such number . Im assuming they just need to now whether its the standard box or the short ratio dakar box , anyone shed any light ? thing is its a spare box that ive bought so my car chassis numbers wont necessarily mean anything anyway, the spare box was sold to me as a shotpeened gearbox with a dodgy 3rd , since opening it up the syncros have gone on 3 /4 /5 and the input and output bearings are shot , and as far as shotpeening , ive been told it looks mildly bead blasted on the gears classic ... any help would be appreciated
hi guys , im having a gearbox rebuilt , syncros , input shaft bearings etc ... the transmission shop have obviousley asked for chassis numbers to order parts , i have given this , now they are after a model number ... i ve looked on my v5 but there is no such number . Im assuming they just need to now whether its the standard box or the short ratio dakar box , anyone shed any light ? thing is its a spare box that ive bought so my car chassis numbers wont necessarily mean anything anyway, the spare box was sold to me as a shotpeened gearbox with a dodgy 3rd , since opening it up the syncros have gone on 3 /4 /5 and the input and output bearings are shot , and as far as shotpeening , ive been told it looks mildly bead blasted on the gears classic ... any help would be appreciated
G
GTI-R Kid
Guest
Grinding noise from head
Need a little help diagnosing a problem guys. :doh:
Currently getting this very strange grinding noise from the front of the head at certain throttle positions and when revving the engine (while I'm under the bonnet). From what I can make out it's almost definitely coming from the front area of the head, over to the distributor side. :?
When I first got the car I thought it was coming from the gearbox, but it would appear now that I was very mistaken
When driving along on a trailing throttle there's no noise at all (apart from the usual tappet noises that these cars make) and under full throttle there's very little to no noise either. It only seems to occur between about quarter throttle to just over half throttle positions. It can also be heard when blipping the throttle by hand under the bonnet, but doesn't seem to be evident when just idling.
And it also seems to be more obvious when the car has warmed up too - though this could simply be because I don't use the throttle much until I see a bit of temperature on the oil temp gauge so the absense of the noise could be down to the driving style more than the engine temperature. :der:
I'm gonna have the rocker cover off in the next few days to replace the gasket due to weeping a bit of oil out, so are there any things in particular I should investigate while I have the cover off? Does the problem sound familiar to anyone? I've tried searching the Problem Solving section for head problems, but none of the descriptions seem to fit the problem that I have at the moment. :roll:
Any help appreciated.
Need a little help diagnosing a problem guys. :doh:
Currently getting this very strange grinding noise from the front of the head at certain throttle positions and when revving the engine (while I'm under the bonnet). From what I can make out it's almost definitely coming from the front area of the head, over to the distributor side. :?
When I first got the car I thought it was coming from the gearbox, but it would appear now that I was very mistaken
When driving along on a trailing throttle there's no noise at all (apart from the usual tappet noises that these cars make) and under full throttle there's very little to no noise either. It only seems to occur between about quarter throttle to just over half throttle positions. It can also be heard when blipping the throttle by hand under the bonnet, but doesn't seem to be evident when just idling.
And it also seems to be more obvious when the car has warmed up too - though this could simply be because I don't use the throttle much until I see a bit of temperature on the oil temp gauge so the absense of the noise could be down to the driving style more than the engine temperature. :der:
I'm gonna have the rocker cover off in the next few days to replace the gasket due to weeping a bit of oil out, so are there any things in particular I should investigate while I have the cover off? Does the problem sound familiar to anyone? I've tried searching the Problem Solving section for head problems, but none of the descriptions seem to fit the problem that I have at the moment. :roll:
Any help appreciated.
G
GTI-R Kid
Guest
The turbo? Would that normally be quiet on trailing throttle and cruising throttle (ie. no boost) along with foot to floor, and only make noise in between?
If its the turbo I'll be half delighted as I can just replace it with the one off our other car (only half delighted as I know its a bitch of a job too!).
If its the turbo I'll be half delighted as I can just replace it with the one off our other car (only half delighted as I know its a bitch of a job too!).
Except if someone optioned the RB box in their RA car? - I appreciate that the RB VIN is probably what's required to get the right gearset though.model number is on the vin plate (top centre of firewall in engine bay)
EBYNRVFN14xxxx = RA (normal ratio box)
EBYNRRFN14xxxx = RB (close ratio box)
but since you have the box without the car it came from, it's going to be a bit hard to check
takumigtir
New Member
sounds like it could possibly be turbo the best way to check is to warm the car up and sit in it and as you feed on the throttle keep an eye on your boost gauge you should more then likely be able to narrow it down by referencing like this it was the case when my thrust bearing went on my old turbo,because there was lateral movement in the shaft at certain engine speeds the impeller would come into contact with the compressor housing which as a result causes your problem,the other thing to do which is quick and easy is to pop off the inlet pipe on the turbo and check for play in the shaft,dont forget to do it while its cold though or let it cool down abit but that goes without saying lol or you may have some saw finger tips ;-) at least then you will have some peace of mind that that area is all ok :-D hope this helps
G
GTI-R Kid
Guest
Thanks takumi.
Didn't have the chance to do much today thanks to the weather, but managed to get my Defi boost gauge fitted and the results have me stumped.
Whether cold or warm, the gauge is only reading a vacuum level of -0.1 bar. Doesn't matter if its idling or on trailing throttle, thats as low as it goes. Car is also only boosting to 0.5 bar, and not making full boost until it hits nearly 4k rpm. Starts spooling up around 2.4k rpm, and is only at full boost just before 4k. Would fitting an electronic boost controller and adjusting the gain have any impact on when and how quick the turbo spools up?
I used a T connection on the boost line for the original boost gauge to get my readings, so now I'm wondering if there's anywhere else on the engine I could connect the gauge to verify these readings?
I doubt I'll get the chance to do much more today as its now pissing it down and I don't have a garage to use, but over the coming days I plan on doing the following (weather permitting) and I'm wondering if anyone can suggest anything else I should do while I'm under the bonnet.
Replacing spark plugs
Compression test while plugs are out
Oil and oil filter change
Fitting oil catch
Set engine timing
Check TPS and adjust if necessary
Thinking of doing the quad-vacuum thing for the BOV too if I have time
Oh and final thing, exhaust is knackered. Its only right at the end by the backbox, so I don't know if this would have any/much impact on the running of the engine, but thought I'd better mention it just in case.
Didn't have the chance to do much today thanks to the weather, but managed to get my Defi boost gauge fitted and the results have me stumped.
Whether cold or warm, the gauge is only reading a vacuum level of -0.1 bar. Doesn't matter if its idling or on trailing throttle, thats as low as it goes. Car is also only boosting to 0.5 bar, and not making full boost until it hits nearly 4k rpm. Starts spooling up around 2.4k rpm, and is only at full boost just before 4k. Would fitting an electronic boost controller and adjusting the gain have any impact on when and how quick the turbo spools up?
I used a T connection on the boost line for the original boost gauge to get my readings, so now I'm wondering if there's anywhere else on the engine I could connect the gauge to verify these readings?
I doubt I'll get the chance to do much more today as its now pissing it down and I don't have a garage to use, but over the coming days I plan on doing the following (weather permitting) and I'm wondering if anyone can suggest anything else I should do while I'm under the bonnet.
Replacing spark plugs
Compression test while plugs are out
Oil and oil filter change
Fitting oil catch
Set engine timing
Check TPS and adjust if necessary
Thinking of doing the quad-vacuum thing for the BOV too if I have time
Oh and final thing, exhaust is knackered. Its only right at the end by the backbox, so I don't know if this would have any/much impact on the running of the engine, but thought I'd better mention it just in case.
G
GTI-R Kid
Guest
Doesn't he work a regular 9-5.30? Don't want to be ringing the lad if he's at work and possibly getting him grief
HotSnot92
Southeren Ireland Regional Rep
u can ring him any time and if he is busy he will ring u back
You have a vac leak somewhere for a start, check all your boost hoses and vac lines to make sure they are connected well and not split.
That line to the original boost sensor is ideal for running your gauge, so don't worry about that.
You'll probably find the slow boost is due to the same leaking pipe. Which you could probably mask a bit with an EBC but the underlying problem is still there.
As for the noise.... as already said most likely culprit is the turbo and the noise is being relayed so it appears to be coming from the head. It would only take a few minutes to get the inlet hose off it and check it for play.
If there is something mechanically amiss in the head that's causing it, it should be pretty damn obvious when you get the rocker cover off.
That line to the original boost sensor is ideal for running your gauge, so don't worry about that.
You'll probably find the slow boost is due to the same leaking pipe. Which you could probably mask a bit with an EBC but the underlying problem is still there.
As for the noise.... as already said most likely culprit is the turbo and the noise is being relayed so it appears to be coming from the head. It would only take a few minutes to get the inlet hose off it and check it for play.
If there is something mechanically amiss in the head that's causing it, it should be pretty damn obvious when you get the rocker cover off.
G
GTI-R Kid
Guest
Cheers geetee - don't suppose you do good weather too so I can get investigating?
power_GTI-R
New Member
gearbox case in progress
hi all
i am new in this forum.
I own gti-r high WHP more than 600 hp .and i know all of you guy's have a problem with gearbox case .
i read all post in this forums and in other web sit . after that i figure many people in all the world thy share us the same problem .
So now we are in progress to made our new gearbox case also we modification some little changes in case design.
But that case will be DIRECT FIT NO NEED ANY FABRICATION.
About material we have two different material cast iron and hard steel these material under testing in our work shop .
The price will be between 1200 - 1400 gbp
we are welcome any suggestion.
hi all
i am new in this forum.
I own gti-r high WHP more than 600 hp .and i know all of you guy's have a problem with gearbox case .
i read all post in this forums and in other web sit . after that i figure many people in all the world thy share us the same problem .
So now we are in progress to made our new gearbox case also we modification some little changes in case design.
But that case will be DIRECT FIT NO NEED ANY FABRICATION.
About material we have two different material cast iron and hard steel these material under testing in our work shop .
The price will be between 1200 - 1400 gbp
we are welcome any suggestion.
Empty Pockets
New Member
Thats going to add alot of frontal weight to an already nose heavy car if i'm not mistaken? I think its good that people are still wanting to design/fabricate parts for our cars but is there not another choice of material you could use?
P
pulsarboby
Guest
i actually looked into getting the casings fabricated myself but the cost of moulding on one style of casing would have been around the figure you have quoted but each casing would have been made from an alliminium billet blockwhich would have been far better than steel and damned sight lighter aswell.
the initial cost to get the machine setup etc would have been around 10k (this would have had to have been added to initial units price) which made the whole thing financially unviable as people will simply not spend that kind of money on an old japanese rust bucket.
if the works in progress were you making alterations to the bearing housings on tailpiece or is this the WHOLE gearbox casing including the front section of box?
because the other problem is that you will then transfer all the torque to the front input shaft bearing which can then push bearing and break through the poorly fabricated front main casing and that alone completely finished any ideas on getting the new tail section fabricated
the initial cost to get the machine setup etc would have been around 10k (this would have had to have been added to initial units price) which made the whole thing financially unviable as people will simply not spend that kind of money on an old japanese rust bucket.
if the works in progress were you making alterations to the bearing housings on tailpiece or is this the WHOLE gearbox casing including the front section of box?
because the other problem is that you will then transfer all the torque to the front input shaft bearing which can then push bearing and break through the poorly fabricated front main casing and that alone completely finished any ideas on getting the new tail section fabricated
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