gtirjoey
Member
leave it standard dont waste money on something that will break no matter what you do to it change oil regually, my standard box is holding up lovely been launched 100+ times at pod, off the lights untold times and takes alot of abuse street racing never had a problem, and im using rps max paddle clutch.
well thats my opion!
well thats my opion!
gtirjoey
Member
yes the rb because are very weird, all i remember is when i came down the gears (to slow the car) putting into second was like first as it nearly threw me out the windscreen, as bob said almost felt like a totally differant car from what i remember you would never get anything like 30 in first gear.
G
gtiral
Guest
right
i am building her for track/fast road use!! i have read about horror stories of stripping gears whilst in 5th gear! i really dont want this to happen to mine, i have a bit of time left yet and i am probs going to buy another box to play with! i would love to go sequential but there isnt one available, i dont think! what would everyone reccomend for a 500+bhp GTiR??? i have no problems getting to that power i just need a box that i can use it to its full potential!!!! i have looked at quaiffe and they seem to just be similar to OE! i have thought about cryo treatment and shot-peening, with a final drive reducer(acceleration) but i am a bit worried this will not be enough........
what about pick and mix, so to speak on half shafts etc etc?!?!?!
cheers
i am building her for track/fast road use!! i have read about horror stories of stripping gears whilst in 5th gear! i really dont want this to happen to mine, i have a bit of time left yet and i am probs going to buy another box to play with! i would love to go sequential but there isnt one available, i dont think! what would everyone reccomend for a 500+bhp GTiR??? i have no problems getting to that power i just need a box that i can use it to its full potential!!!! i have looked at quaiffe and they seem to just be similar to OE! i have thought about cryo treatment and shot-peening, with a final drive reducer(acceleration) but i am a bit worried this will not be enough........
what about pick and mix, so to speak on half shafts etc etc?!?!?!
cheers
Sween
New Member
Hmmmm this has turned into a very interesting topic. There will always be pro's and con's but in reality when can you drive at over 130. Acceleration I would have thought to be more important to most people. My biggest concern would be how long the box itself would last. Does anyone out there have any experience of blowing a close ratio box up? What is the same and what is different between the 2? I am assuming the gearbox casing etc would be identical but the internals would be different.
If I am right in what I say the standard box on the R is ripped straight from the GTI so this close ratio model would have been purpose designed just for the R. It seems like an ideal solution to many peoples box problems
If I am right in what I say the standard box on the R is ripped straight from the GTI so this close ratio model would have been purpose designed just for the R. It seems like an ideal solution to many peoples box problems
keastygtir
Well-Known Member
my fear was cracking the casing
exactly, thats why I bought an oil sucker............
also good for oil engine changes ;-)
also good for oil engine changes ;-)
keastygtir
Well-Known Member
oil sucker it is then
GTiR-Aholic
New Member
R not stalling but not moving either..?
Hi Guys,
Okay basically I had the OS Giken clutch fitted few months back and it seems the release bearing was constantly pressed against the pressure plate (because it's finally damaged the clutch + bearing).
I've now had to pay out £600 for all new parts of clutch and release bearing and the bearing carrier..
Wacked gearbox off, fitted it all up and same time I removed intake/throttle body, cleaned it all up nicely, used gasket sealent and put it all back together (because I had the "High revs" issue as well)..
Neways..
When putting the O/S drive shaft back in, it was a real pain and I think about 2-3mm's of it is still sticking out - I thought this would self-correct once the splines catch it will rotate and draw the drive shaft into place.. it's literally 2-3mm's.
I put everything back together and reversed it off the ramps.. I was taking up and down the yard for a spin but it didn't want to move..
I press clutch down, put it into first gear and get to biting point (car starts to move forwards) I give it a little gas and move off the clutch but it doesn't pickup speed, I give it some more throttle (nothing changes).. car comes to a complete stop but DOESN'T stall! - as though either the clutch is still engaged slightly enough for it not to stall or maybe it's because the drive shaft is 2mm out?
RB Motorsports up in Lancashire told me that I have to had a 8mm clearence between release bearing and pressure plate, because it's a lot thicker (the OS Giken clutch) compared to OE.. I had to grind down the slave cylinder rod.. about 6mm to compensate for the extra thickness - I know I did this right because now I can feel the clearance is there.
(RM Motorsports is UK's only official distributor of OS Giken).
So could this be caused because I've grinded the slave away too much? or maybe because I didn't bleed it? - I didn't open the bleed nipple or loose fluid anywhere so I didn't think it needed bleeding at all.
Or could it be because the drivers shaft aint in properly? - I thought it's the N/S shaft on these pulsars that rotate with the engine, and the rest follow..
I.E. If n/s shaft isn't in, I thought then it's possible to be in gear and not moving without stalling.. but it seems to be happenin even though n/s shaft IS in properly but o/s is out 2mm.
Sorry for the confusing post.. 2.45am and i've just finished putting it back together..
Also, revs idle okay for a bit but then start "hunting"..
Anybody ever had any problems like this, any help would be very much appreciated..
Hi Guys,
Okay basically I had the OS Giken clutch fitted few months back and it seems the release bearing was constantly pressed against the pressure plate (because it's finally damaged the clutch + bearing).
I've now had to pay out £600 for all new parts of clutch and release bearing and the bearing carrier..
Wacked gearbox off, fitted it all up and same time I removed intake/throttle body, cleaned it all up nicely, used gasket sealent and put it all back together (because I had the "High revs" issue as well)..
Neways..
When putting the O/S drive shaft back in, it was a real pain and I think about 2-3mm's of it is still sticking out - I thought this would self-correct once the splines catch it will rotate and draw the drive shaft into place.. it's literally 2-3mm's.
I put everything back together and reversed it off the ramps.. I was taking up and down the yard for a spin but it didn't want to move..
I press clutch down, put it into first gear and get to biting point (car starts to move forwards) I give it a little gas and move off the clutch but it doesn't pickup speed, I give it some more throttle (nothing changes).. car comes to a complete stop but DOESN'T stall! - as though either the clutch is still engaged slightly enough for it not to stall or maybe it's because the drive shaft is 2mm out?
RB Motorsports up in Lancashire told me that I have to had a 8mm clearence between release bearing and pressure plate, because it's a lot thicker (the OS Giken clutch) compared to OE.. I had to grind down the slave cylinder rod.. about 6mm to compensate for the extra thickness - I know I did this right because now I can feel the clearance is there.
(RM Motorsports is UK's only official distributor of OS Giken).
So could this be caused because I've grinded the slave away too much? or maybe because I didn't bleed it? - I didn't open the bleed nipple or loose fluid anywhere so I didn't think it needed bleeding at all.
Or could it be because the drivers shaft aint in properly? - I thought it's the N/S shaft on these pulsars that rotate with the engine, and the rest follow..
I.E. If n/s shaft isn't in, I thought then it's possible to be in gear and not moving without stalling.. but it seems to be happenin even though n/s shaft IS in properly but o/s is out 2mm.
Sorry for the confusing post.. 2.45am and i've just finished putting it back together..
Also, revs idle okay for a bit but then start "hunting"..
Anybody ever had any problems like this, any help would be very much appreciated..
GTiR-Aholic
New Member
Sorry, also want to add.. car goes into all gears fine (a little crunching but not major) although bearing makes a lot of noise when engaged so possible I've grinded 1-2mm too much.. I can fix that though by putting a nut in front of the rod.
When reversing off the ramps, I could hear the o/s drive shaft grinding loud.. thought it would catch and slip into place.. then put it in first to drive drive it hoping it would self-fix but still made bad grinding sound so I've left it outside the garage as it was - didn't want to do any further damage and will start again on it with a fresh head.. but honestly i've worked out I done 56hours work on this car (THIS WEEK ONLY) and that's not including the 12hours driving to lancashire and back..
I'm physically dead and I'm so angry right now and frustrated.. I won't dare post what i feel like doing to my once loved R (okay i still love it deep down lol)
When reversing off the ramps, I could hear the o/s drive shaft grinding loud.. thought it would catch and slip into place.. then put it in first to drive drive it hoping it would self-fix but still made bad grinding sound so I've left it outside the garage as it was - didn't want to do any further damage and will start again on it with a fresh head.. but honestly i've worked out I done 56hours work on this car (THIS WEEK ONLY) and that's not including the 12hours driving to lancashire and back..
I'm physically dead and I'm so angry right now and frustrated.. I won't dare post what i feel like doing to my once loved R
(okay i still love it deep down lol)
vss irvine
Well-Known Member
first thing you need to do is get that driveshaft fitted and located properly.
all the drive will be lost through this point because the front diff is open.
next thing is, you must have a bent clutch fork or something as theres no need to grind the slave cylinder rod. no-one else i know of has had to do this when fitting the os unit.
all the drive will be lost through this point because the front diff is open.
next thing is, you must have a bent clutch fork or something as theres no need to grind the slave cylinder rod. no-one else i know of has had to do this when fitting the os unit.
Crank need help
hi everyone im new on here just got a gtir and the bottom end has gone wot is the fastest and easyest way to get the crank out as it may need to be re-ground not too sure yet as havent had a look at it yet but wot can i get away with as wear
ok got it all off to day its got std shells not oversized so it not been reground
the 3 big end has gone as in the pic http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/qq280/simon300zx/?action=view¤t=27012009021.jpg let me no if u think its going to be ok to shell or not ? cheers sy
hi everyone im new on here just got a gtir and the bottom end has gone wot is the fastest and easyest way to get the crank out as it may need to be re-ground not too sure yet as havent had a look at it yet but wot can i get away with as wear
ok got it all off to day its got std shells not oversized so it not been reground
the 3 big end has gone as in the pic http://s455.photobucket.com/albums/qq280/simon300zx/?action=view¤t=27012009021.jpg let me no if u think its going to be ok to shell or not ? cheers sy
R
riske
Guest
Just goes to show you that not all good stories finish well. Although him being a girl might be the best thing for him, i mean her...
This could of been my answer to my other question.
I would like to actually know wot went on here cos this is what i want!
This could of been my answer to my other question.
I would like to actually know wot went on here cos this is what i want!
Last edited by a moderator:
vss irvine
Well-Known Member
they cut off your ****, and slit you a fanny. whats hard about that you pre-op tv!
Major_Sarcasm
Member
You know this for a fact? I think not, as it has been running. It had a leak, but it was still making boost at just over tickover.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jEWYhfvE2EQ