my crashed car was a RB model with a nismo chassis plate above the servo showing number 10. half rollcage, no asb, no air con, low ratio box, solid rear subframe mounts etc. All mechanicals have been removed and fitted in donor shell. ND 450,quaife gears,lsd,310 willwoods in15" slipstream wheels. I only wish I could start the beast,cheers den.
thanks fast guy. had another go today to try and start car. again no joy.have good spark, fuel ok. commander showing 16 deg on cranking. timing has not been touched after removing from crashed car although I had to purchase a new dis cap and rotor as these got broken in smash.afm on old car had 4 terminals in plug, whereas donor has only three, but am using donor afm. cheers den.
noriek2003
New Member
might be an idea to whip the rocker off
The standard air flow meter has 3 pins (does the doner afm have a metal body?) I would have thought with the amount of power your car had you would of had a z32 maf on the car originally (bigger diameter with black plastic body) the z32 has 4 pins.dencon said:
If you are using a different airflow meter that could be the reason it wont start?
Mark.my car had the largerz32 but was smashed in the crash, with the donor car having the smaller metal bodied maf with 3 pins.At present I am just trying to get the car up and running so that I can drive it around the yard to make sure that engine and gearbox is still in sound condition after the smash.I intend to switch to a motec and larger turbo and get rid of maf. cheers den.
noriek2003
New Member
has the pfc been rescaled to suit a standard maf ?
cheers all, ive got it started.this is what had happened.the large air cleaner on its way to the rear of the car had broken the distributor and although the end of the rotor had a little mark on it, it must have taken a knock as the disc inside the dis had moved around bending the mounting lugs.the timing was miles out.as the timing was sealed when the engine was built, I did not think this could happen.anyway I can now carry on with the rebuild as the engine still sounds nice after three years of hard hillclimbing, running 1.8 bar and 6000 revs with dump clutch starts, having 17 wins in 19 events last year.I will now be looking for a new distributor. I already have new dis cap and rotor. I am also looking for a good front bumper as donor vehicle is cracked in two places. Thanks all for help. cheers den.
dannogti-r
South Wales Rep
ha hastumo said:
foo foo valve, aint heard that in years!
gtirx2
Member
warringtonjack
Active Member
Erm, bad bad bad bad BAD idea.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
By diff locks, you mean that you can lock the distribution across them? 25% of power to all wheels? Or maybe 50% of power on any given axle to both wheels?
The big problem is that a car that puts power to all four wheels will just launch it's self off a 2wd dyno. - It doesn't really matter which wheels you have on it, the transfer case will try to send the power to the wheels that are spinning... and it won't really work.
I think we've got a language barrier here, and that's not what you're asking.
The big problem is that a car that puts power to all four wheels will just launch it's self off a 2wd dyno. - It doesn't really matter which wheels you have on it, the transfer case will try to send the power to the wheels that are spinning... and it won't really work.
I think we've got a language barrier here, and that's not what you're asking.
Smo
Active Member
Help! Release Bearing Perhaps?
I was driving home just now and after coming out of a corner I shifted up into fourth and began to accelerate when there was a crunching noise and the car held back rather violently. I immediately lifted off the throttle and the car rolled as normal, still in gear. Gradually as I accelerated harder the car did it again, but doesn't seem to on very light acceleration (I had to baby it up a hill very slowly and drop a gear a couple of times to make it).
Managed to get it back on my driveway and sat on idle I can hear a rattle which goes away when I press the clutch. There's no odd sensation with the clutch at all, it feels normal and the gearbox still selects every gear without a problem.
I'm told it's my clutch release bearing, does this sound right to you? And if so, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a lot of labour to haul the box out (possibly engine?).
Cheers.
I was driving home just now and after coming out of a corner I shifted up into fourth and began to accelerate when there was a crunching noise and the car held back rather violently. I immediately lifted off the throttle and the car rolled as normal, still in gear. Gradually as I accelerated harder the car did it again, but doesn't seem to on very light acceleration (I had to baby it up a hill very slowly and drop a gear a couple of times to make it).
Managed to get it back on my driveway and sat on idle I can hear a rattle which goes away when I press the clutch. There's no odd sensation with the clutch at all, it feels normal and the gearbox still selects every gear without a problem.
I'm told it's my clutch release bearing, does this sound right to you? And if so, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a lot of labour to haul the box out (possibly engine?).
Cheers.