Cheers love!
*Meltdown!*
- Thread starter fubar andy
- Start date
Right I've tried the timing trick and nothing has changed at all???
I've restored the boost pipes back to original however the new forge actuator still installed. I've also shortened the actuator rod to ensure the waste gate flap is shut (define how firmly shut it should be).
I've still go boost problems and cannot get over 0.4bar (although when higher up the rev range it does creep to 0.5bar)
My EGT's are around 700-800oC (at 0.4bar) yet my AFR's are still in the high 11's.
I have noticed a light smell of fuel in the oil, which has also given me cause for concern now and I'm going now to get a compression tester to check the engine (again).
I've got not idea what the hell is causing this, I'm going to take my MAF off and give that a clean tomorrow and also remove the exhaust and check for checking sake that there is nothing blocking the flow of air.
I've checked marks on the timing chain line up with the mating marks on the 2 sprockets and they match up.
...also with this boost issue, since I've added this Forge actuator it has never gone over 0.5bar in boost. Is there anything I might have done wrong when installing the actuator or should the rod on the actuator be screw so that the waste gate is very firmly shut?
I'm getting kind of stuck here and I feel that I might need to stick on a BBQ and ask for some experienced hands to pop over and ensure that I'm doing the right things here as I'm starting to struggle with finding what's at fault now...?
Any suggestions?
***edit just to add my EGT's on tick over are around 450-500oC
I've restored the boost pipes back to original however the new forge actuator still installed. I've also shortened the actuator rod to ensure the waste gate flap is shut (define how firmly shut it should be).
I've still go boost problems and cannot get over 0.4bar (although when higher up the rev range it does creep to 0.5bar)
My EGT's are around 700-800oC (at 0.4bar) yet my AFR's are still in the high 11's.
I have noticed a light smell of fuel in the oil, which has also given me cause for concern now and I'm going now to get a compression tester to check the engine (again).
I've got not idea what the hell is causing this, I'm going to take my MAF off and give that a clean tomorrow and also remove the exhaust and check for checking sake that there is nothing blocking the flow of air.
I've checked marks on the timing chain line up with the mating marks on the 2 sprockets and they match up.
...also with this boost issue, since I've added this Forge actuator it has never gone over 0.5bar in boost. Is there anything I might have done wrong when installing the actuator or should the rod on the actuator be screw so that the waste gate is very firmly shut?
I'm getting kind of stuck here and I feel that I might need to stick on a BBQ and ask for some experienced hands to pop over and ensure that I'm doing the right things here as I'm starting to struggle with finding what's at fault now...?
Any suggestions?
***edit just to add my EGT's on tick over are around 450-500oC
Last edited:
Also this is how my plugs looked 10 mins ago....
red reading
Active Member
Have you:-
Put a fuel pressure gauge in,
Checked the fuel pump and voltage,
Changed the fuel pressure regulator,
Changed the ecu for a known good one?
Put a fuel pressure gauge in,
Checked the fuel pump and voltage,
Changed the fuel pressure regulator,
Changed the ecu for a known good one?
Put a fuel pressure gauge in - No - need to get hold of one!
Checked the fuel pump and voltage - Yes, all is ok
Changed the fuel pressure regulator - No - need to get hold of one!
Changed the ecu for a known good one? - No - need to get hold of one!
Checked the fuel pump and voltage - Yes, all is ok
Changed the fuel pressure regulator - No - need to get hold of one!
Changed the ecu for a known good one? - No - need to get hold of one!
red reading
Active Member
right i can sell you a gauge with fittings and a nismo adjustable fpr if you want them
all to fit a standard fuel rail
all to fit a standard fuel rail
Last edited:
Andy, sorry I missed your call. Where abouts have you placed your EGT? If it's in the manifold it will be quite close to the head so should be indicative. If that's the case then 700 to 800 at WOT is fine. Your afr's are on the low side which is also fine. Two problems are your plugs look hot and you use the car hard on trackdays so you might want to target 650 to 700 peak EGT for safety. The boost pressure is less relevant as you can overheat the charge without a turbo by running too much timing and not enough fuel.
Your car has always made good power so it would be useful to check what the actual timing is. Next time your passing through you can borrow my timing gun so we can put a figure to your timing.
It could be that when you engine was re-built your head was skimmed and you have a higher CR so it's the equivalent of running more advance.
What AFR's/EGT's are you seeing on cruise as this was where you first saw the problem and it might be this that is causing your plugs to go white rather then the WOT.
Are you still runnin gthe Mines ECU as I believe that will increase the timing?
First though borrow my gun and check your timing as your fueling at WOT is safe enough.
Your car has always made good power so it would be useful to check what the actual timing is. Next time your passing through you can borrow my timing gun so we can put a figure to your timing.
It could be that when you engine was re-built your head was skimmed and you have a higher CR so it's the equivalent of running more advance.
What AFR's/EGT's are you seeing on cruise as this was where you first saw the problem and it might be this that is causing your plugs to go white rather then the WOT.
Are you still runnin gthe Mines ECU as I believe that will increase the timing?
First though borrow my gun and check your timing as your fueling at WOT is safe enough.
No worries Jim
So recent updates.
I've changed the injectors for some more standard units and there is no real change on the figures, they all read the same, however I have noticed less heat coming from the manifold, but as its still light I can't see if its glowing, so will check later.
As for the timing I need to removed the crank pulley I have as its got no marker points on it and add one that that has got marker points.
I've also been looking the my gauges:
Cruising around 600oC, WOT 850oC
AFR's low 11's (high 10's)
ECU is still standard.
Once I have done the timing I'll report back.
Andy, your AFR's at WOT are still safe so air/fuel is alright but your temps are still at the top end of where you'd want them. What are your AFR's at idle, cruise, part throttle?
Change that pulley over and check the timing
Change that pulley over and check the timing
Right...since my last post, I've has no luck whatsoever getting the car timed, if anything I've gone further backwards due to more issues and problems.
1st off I've been left a OEM crank pulley to time the car, however before I could even sort that out the crank key decided to fall out and damage itself in the process. New one ordered and fitted.
As noted I've changed my injectors and the heat issues do seem to have fallen back, but I can't really check jack sh*t due to my crank pulley issues.
So...I've got the crank pulley on the car ready to time up and crank key in place, buckets of oil are coming out....
Change back to the alloy one and same result, oil pouring out when engine running.
Pulled crank off, and inspect no issues. Noticed a small spring where the pulley sits, remove seal...seal damaged...great! :doh:
Also metal washer behind, also damaged...great :doh: now need to order those items, get them fitted, time car, change oil (make sure there is no more fuel in the oil), fit FMIC and have pip run made up, sort out boost issue, fit new bodywork and then wash the thing....
Tbh if I get it sorted I might leave it shit up as a reminder how much pissing about I've had with the bastard thing!
1st off I've been left a OEM crank pulley to time the car, however before I could even sort that out the crank key decided to fall out and damage itself in the process. New one ordered and fitted.
As noted I've changed my injectors and the heat issues do seem to have fallen back, but I can't really check jack sh*t due to my crank pulley issues.
So...I've got the crank pulley on the car ready to time up and crank key in place, buckets of oil are coming out....
Change back to the alloy one and same result, oil pouring out when engine running.
Pulled crank off, and inspect no issues. Noticed a small spring where the pulley sits, remove seal...seal damaged...great! :doh:
Also metal washer behind, also damaged...great :doh: now need to order those items, get them fitted, time car, change oil (make sure there is no more fuel in the oil), fit FMIC and have pip run made up, sort out boost issue, fit new bodywork and then wash the thing....
Tbh if I get it sorted I might leave it shit up as a reminder how much pissing about I've had with the bastard thing!
I'd offer you a hand, but I think it might be a bit too late for that; likewise parts off my R to get you there.
As Stu says, I'm sure you'll have it sorted if you keep going with it... and it's only got to last until you're home at the end of TOTB.
I'm still wondering if the exhaust mainfold glows because you've annealed the iron at some point, so it behaves differently now than it did before. This is a phase diagram for a carbon steel:
I appreciate it looks a bit confusing, and I don't know what the composition of the standard manifold is, but it seems to me that if you've got it hot enough and allowed it to slowly air cool (rather than quench) you could convert it. - It becomes austenitic (i.e. the alignment of the atoms changes; that's the alpha/gamma business) at ~750 degrees and melts at ~1100 degrees.
I've got a feeling this is how you make "white iron", which could explain why the manifold glows now when it didn't before. - If it's not magnetic then it's austenitic iron.
Meh... it's a theory anyway.
As Stu says, I'm sure you'll have it sorted if you keep going with it... and it's only got to last until you're home at the end of TOTB.
I'm still wondering if the exhaust mainfold glows because you've annealed the iron at some point, so it behaves differently now than it did before. This is a phase diagram for a carbon steel:
I appreciate it looks a bit confusing, and I don't know what the composition of the standard manifold is, but it seems to me that if you've got it hot enough and allowed it to slowly air cool (rather than quench) you could convert it. - It becomes austenitic (i.e. the alignment of the atoms changes; that's the alpha/gamma business) at ~750 degrees and melts at ~1100 degrees.
I've got a feeling this is how you make "white iron", which could explain why the manifold glows now when it didn't before. - If it's not magnetic then it's austenitic iron.
Meh... it's a theory anyway.
STU666V
Active Member
Just what i was going to say ;-)
They are all the same, clean and dry...see previous pic's of my plugs.
I need to get that frigging crank pulley sorted and time the buggar so I can finish everything else and get the rest of the crap sorted out!!!!
Going to be tricky to get it all done for the event, might have to miss the "test day" on the Saturday to get it all sorted out...
P
pulsarboby
Guest
im in the same boat, ive got 4 days to fit my new engine which is at the moment in the car i did the sprintday in on friday not yet run in but no time left now so gonna have to rip it out.
swap all the ancilliary parts including fitting the turbo
swap the gearbox and clutch
try sort out the handling/alignment probs
and see if i can test drive it to make sure its all running properly with no problems
its gonna be hit and miss as ive still got customers cars in which need to be finished this week also as well as all the parcels to sort and send out, plus moving house and the business lol:doh:
Fusion Ed
Active Member
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6140/5918773221_4b8b6650c9_z.jpg
That image concerns me. It looks like there are a small speckle like deposits on the plug. If this is the case that can be a sure sign of severe det. Essentially your piston crowns melting and depositing on the plugs.
I may be wrong but just to bring this to your attention - just in case.
That image concerns me. It looks like there are a small speckle like deposits on the plug. If this is the case that can be a sure sign of severe det. Essentially your piston crowns melting and depositing on the plugs.
I may be wrong but just to bring this to your attention - just in case.
Hmm...small speckles...would they be white speckles or black speckles?
I will take some more pic's tomorrow when I'm back....