Rebuild Question

pulsar kid

New Member
Iam about to start my 1st rebuild on a sr20det and have gatherd a list of parts i have and was woundering if anyone could take allok over and see if iam missing anything, its a basic rebuild and not looking for huge bhp just reliable:-D

wiesco 86mm pistons,
arp head/rod bolts,
hks head gasket,
head skimmend,
standard bearings and thrust washers,
inlet gasket/exhaust gasket,
oil/filter.
anything else i should consider??
 

Trondelond

Active Member
You should include a complete gasket kit there, and change the oil/water pump while you're at it at least. :)

If you're getting the head skimmed, you could get the bores honed and checked as well.
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
bin the arp head studs as youll have nothing but grief

others would disagree but i would also not use wiesco pistons youll be much better off with cp

would also use a cosworth h/g as there cheaper than hks (not that theres anything wrong with hks jobbies)

also i would replace valve stem oil seals and check guides then lap valves

oil pump and casing will need fully checking and possibly replacing, also check oil pressure relief valve is not jamming

check chain for stretch and make sure tensioners working correctly

check the slipper on chain guide as these wear often

the crank is the key, this must be spot on and if your using nissan shells then make sure you get the correct grade for that particular crank (number stamped on webb)

if running a lot of power dont get crank ground (main journals not a prob) find a good standard crank

check all oil squirters are functioning correctly (not blocked) and that springs have not jammed in retainers

make sure the block is totally flat and not distorted as with the head also use a bore gauge if your using standard block to make sure that cylinders are not ovalled and are within spec

this is just the stuff regarding engine block itself!!!
 
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watoga

Member
Bob,

Is the oil pressure relief valve an integral part of the oil pump unit? Or is it a replaceable item (by itself)?

Is it just the ARP head studs you don't like? Are other ARP items (like rod bolts, etc.) worth upgrading to?

Cheers,
Dave
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
Bob,

Is the oil pressure relief valve an integral part of the oil pump unit? Or is it a replaceable item (by itself)?

Is it just the ARP head studs you don't like? Are other ARP items (like rod bolts, etc.) worth upgrading to?

Cheers,
Dave
yep theres nothing wrong with the arp rod bolts, actually they are a must as standard rod bolts are shite
cant see the point in the mains studs though as oe bolts are very strong
the head studs are the bad thing as youll have troubles with torquing them down, theres been a few cars weve had in that have lifted heads and all of them have had arp head studs fitted.
i simply will not fit these under any circumstances.

the oil pressure relief valve is situated in oil pump casing and is held in place by a 24mm bolt, undo that and it should slide out complete with spring and piston, these can stick in the casing so make sure its perfectly clean and not jamming in any way.
if you want to up the pressure slightly then do as simon norris does and fit a small washer inside the piston so it gives more pressure on spring in order for it to relieve pressure.

ol norris will charge an arm and leg for the pleasure of doing that then calling it an uprated oil pump:lol:
 

watoga

Member
if you want to up the pressure slightly then do as simon norris does and fit a small washer inside the piston so it gives more pressure on spring in order for it to relieve pressure.
Cheers Bob,

Are their any negative side-effects of such a mod? I mean, is it *really* necessary to increase the oil pressure over OE values?

Thanks for the infinite wisdom! :notworthy:
Dave
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
well yes there is really i guess, i think lol....a need to up pressure a little that is!
if your running a big oil cooler and or relocation kit the more oil you will need so it would be better to up the pressure slightly.
but looking at it in retrospect because its a mechanically driven pump the faster the engine turns the quicker it will operate so in that respect i would say no
by fitting a thin washer (around .75mm) it will up the pressure by about 1/4 bar which i think is a good thing when you consider in some cases the cars are running perhaps double the power initially intended for that pump

norris did this for a reason other than to make even more money i guess:lol:
 
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vpulsar

Well-Known Member
I agree ARP head studs are a right pain in the back side unless they've changed the design lately, Nismo ones work well but you wont find them anymore, You'll probably need bigger pistons unless you're very lucky with your old bores, I used 87mm HKS when I built mine.


John
 
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