Coarse Camber Mod


Staff member
When playing with the ride height on the Tein suspension, I was always compromised by the amount of camber I could dial in. I was looking at installing some camber bolts but they are £30, sometimes loose their setting as you can't torque them up enough and then are dissappointing as they'll only add 3/4 degree.

So I attacked my strut with a rotary grinder and slotted the top hole 3mm towards the inside. This is nothing new but thought I'd post it up for people who've not seen it done before.


Free :thumbsup:
Can easily gain uptp -2.5 degs of negative camber change (Or as much as you want if you keep drilling :shock: )

Need a method to grind the slot (Might be cheaper just to buy bolts!)
I think I'll struggle to get better that -0.25 degs of accuracy. (Adequate but not perfect)

My reasoning for up to -2.5degs of change :shock: :shock: is because at full height on the Teins, my wheels used to positive camber by 0.5degs :x. I should have the range to run -2degs of static camber at full height which are the ultimate limits I might ever use. At the moment it is run in the middle to give approx -1deg change and an overall static camber of approx -1.5 degs in readiness for trackdays :)

For anyone else wanting to try it, I would suggest 1-2mm as plenty for a starting point.
You would obviously need an alignment after taking your suspension apart as chances are your toe will change slightly too.

No measurements done yet and no testing but thought I'd post up anyway.


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The g force coilovers come with an ovalled top hole.
It does give you movement but tbh I've found it a pain in the ass as you can never put it back in the same place.


Staff member
This was on Teins with adjustable top mounts but the top mounts wouldn't give enough adjustment at a decent ride height and then gave even less after I offset them to give more castor.

R C Jay, absolutely spot on with a disadvantage but easy solution I've aready considered is to mark a score line in for my chosen position. It will then be easier to adjust it up and down 0.25deg by just covering or just moving away from the line. I still don't believe I could adjust better than that given the mechanics of the way it affects camber.

I'd advise anyone else to drill out the hole upto 1mm at a time and then you can just move the suspension to its ultimate limit and no hassle of where to put it.

TBH, I do think Mr average would be better just buying some camber bolts for £40. I just posted up to show there are other cheaper options that can give quite ludcirous levels of camber.


I too wish the D2/G-force slotted hole didn't exist. I actually want to form a little packer to stick in the hole next to the bolts. Thing is, no matter how tight I do it up, it'll move with very hard driving.

I agree you can't get enough camber without it though. I'm thinking of slotting my top mounts a bit more.

Campbell, recently on a trackday in the wet the front would just wipe out in horrendous understeer. I still can't understand why it does it, even with all the camber I've thrown at it.