Wideband Gauge Recommendations.

MORF114

MORF114

Active Member
I wouldnt call them chav its not burburry or whatever the chav in thing bollox is now in the uk .

Arent LEDs the best way to read a afr gauge? something to do with voltage from sensor and quick voltage changes remember reading something like that somewhere once.


F***ING CHAVS SO GLAD IM NOT LIVING IN THE UK ANYMORE

I cant wait for mine to work i really pi**ed off the technical rep that was dealing with me and ever since then he has been a complete di*k head i marked all the wire connections before i sent it off to get fixed to see if they would check it, i checked the length of all wires and melted the ends of them and the marks were all on it when i got it back not a chance they could of tested it unless they measured it changed all the wires noticed all the marks and put them back for me after they tested with it which i doubt they would do!
 
CruiseGTi-R

CruiseGTi-R

Member
They use the same sensor, but the electronics seem better.

Some afr units can be a little inaccurate and require the sensors to be calibrated.
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Calibration should be unnecessary since all the sensors are laser calibrated before they leave the factory.
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
CruiseGTi-R said:
They use the same sensor, but the electronics seem better.

Some afr units can be a little inaccurate and require the sensors to be calibrated.
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Not really. Its what Ed says on the sensor and the elctronics just take a known voltage and convert it into a number. I guess the plx scores if you want to use it for standalone datalogging. If you've got a programmable engine management you're probably better off using its facilities rather than another box of tricks.
 
CruiseGTi-R

CruiseGTi-R

Member
With certain afr units you need to calibrate the box of tricks to the sensor before use and occasionally during use. You need to calibrate the unit by having the sensor in free air.

Some afr units are a bit crude and have low sample rates, over or under compensate for sharp changes in afr recording erroneous peak values (bit like overboost reading on a turbo).

Innovate seem well proven too though, and Zeitronix stuff.
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
CruiseGTi-R said:
With certain afr units you need to calibrate the box of tricks to the sensor before use and occasionally during use. You need to calibrate the unit by having the sensor in free air.
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I don't see this as being entirely true. I do accept and agree that innovate do say to do this - and I believe innovate make good gear, however I don't accept that its entirely vital, since these same sensors are also used by manufactures in their cars and you would never be expected to remove one of these and calibrate in air.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
rossdj1983 said:
does anyone make their gauge in a 52mm size?
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the Innovate gear is 52mm (2 1/16") so is the anologue Innovate gauge I attached above this Dyno-tune one is also 52mm (2 1/16")

I believe the AEM and VEMS gauges to be 52mm as well
 
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Granite-GTiR

New Member
CruiseGTi-R said:
With certain afr units you need to calibrate the box of tricks to the sensor before use and occasionally during use. You need to calibrate the unit by having the sensor in free air.

Some afr units are a bit crude and have low sample rates, over or under compensate for sharp changes in afr recording erroneous peak values (bit like overboost reading on a turbo).

Innovate seem well proven too though, and Zeitronix stuff.
Click to expand...
I'm stuck between the choice of getting the Innovate XD-1 or a PLX wideband gauge.
The Innovate wideband needs calibrating but the PLX does not, just wondering what the deal is with the calibration, i.e. how often does it need to be calibrated? And are the afr units that require calibrating more accurate?
 
S

steve963

Active Member
Campbell your right, I did ask you AEM POWER

Its arived now, looks good

just need to get it fitted, can`t wait! (to see I`ve been running lean for 6 months! lol)
 
CruiseGTi-R

CruiseGTi-R

Member
Granite-GTiR said:
I'm stuck between the choice of getting the Innovate XD-1 or a PLX wideband gauge.
The Innovate wideband needs calibrating but the PLX does not, just wondering what the deal is with the calibration, i.e. how often does it need to be calibrated? And are the afr units that require calibrating more accurate?
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I'm biased because I like the plx stuff.

Another plus point is that the support for plx is huge. They're brilliant at fixing the units if they go wrong and solving any gripes you might have setting it up. Afr units can be a bit fragile sometimes so having somewhere with good aftersales is worth the extra ££.

If you're in the UK, either buy direct from plx devices in the states, or use StreetRays.com (also in the US), they were very good sending my stuff over.
 
O

Odin

Guest
CruiseGTi-R said:
I'm biased because I like the plx stuff.

Another plus point is that the support for plx is huge. They're brilliant at fixing the units if they go wrong and solving any gripes you might have setting it up. Afr units can be a bit fragile sometimes so having somewhere with good aftersales is worth the extra ££.

If you're in the UK, either buy direct from plx devices in the states, or use StreetRays.com (also in the US), they were very good sending my stuff over.
Click to expand...

Have you used it yet ?, If not how do you know you like it ? ;-) .

As for the rest I read that as their stuff breaks alot and has loads of setting up problems, BUT!! they are good at sorting it all out because they've had loads of practice :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: .



Rob
 
CruiseGTi-R

CruiseGTi-R

Member
Yeah I've had it in the car for months and wouldn't drive without it again.

The afr would remain pretty constant, either stoiching or dropping to values I was happy with. When I pushed the boost from 1.0 to 1.1 to 1.2bar, all on stock ecu/engine I'd know exactly when I was pushing it, with the warning light coming on if the afr didn't drop to its lowest point I'd set when on 1.0bar. I also got slightly lower afr's once I'd sorted a code 55, and I thought the code 55 mode was supposed to be a safe mode and add fuel...

Interestingly, when in traffic sometimes, and only after fitting a Mongoose, afr would sometimes struggle to stoich, climbing to 1:17. If I pulled away sharply, afr would not always drop to values I knew. A sharp blip on the thottle when this happened got the ecu stoiching correctly again. Weird, but good to know when things aren't doing what they should.

The egt was more useful though. During long runs, especially on mountain road climbs and during the thick of summer I'd see egt getting to 790deg or so flat out, pretty much risky for stock engine I reckon, again I'd know when to cool it and back off a bit, and you wouldn't have known it from oil or water temps as these were only a bit higher than normal.

I could also listen for knock on headphones through the stock sensor, map traces for throttle position, egt and afr. All good stuff. I'm probably only using 20% of what its capable of, should really come into its own when I get my ass in gear and map it.

I used the g-meter for fun, and also took records of bhp and torque I was getting. Tbh it was a bit inaccurate as it needed setting up properly, but was a good reference when changing boost to see what extra power it gave.

I never had any problems with it in about 6 months of use and the sensors are all still working spot on. The unit has also never needed recalibrating to the sensors.

Having said all that it doesn't make tea, and didn't tell me when my mains were about to spin :cry: :-D .
 
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