welding sills and making new rear jack points ??

[vss irvine]

at end of the day, if its folded round, then welded theres not going to be a shearing load.

drill and fill the hole is to hold the plates in position (together) nothing more.

you want to be spotting every 2 inch.

rivets etc is making it more complicated than it needs to be.

 

[bensmith907]

fair one. as I say 'no expert' and im fantastic at over complicating these sort of things! lol everything gets riveted in my world ;-)

 

[gtirx2]

First i will start by saying i am a complete ametuer at welding and welding up cars,and that i have never had to weld up a sunny before.

But over the last year or so i have been having a go at welding up a very fooked uno lol


The way i have attached the sill is basicly as decribed with drilling a hole and plug welding, instead of the spot welding like that is done as stock with a special machine.


I think this is perfectly fine for attaching the sills as long as you get good penertration into the back sheet of steel.

Not sure how much an uno differs from a sunny in the way the sills and floor are attached,and my pics are going to be different as every thing had rusted away lol.
But i think you basicly want to drill through the outer sill and inner sill to the back lip where the floor attaches to the inner sil,and then make sure everything is nice and tight and flush together and aim to penertrate the back floor lip and fill the drilled hole through the outer and inner sill all in one good blast.

Thats if a sunny is the same as an uno as i have not looked.

http://www.turbocollective.net/phpB...sid=2468664c5f6e3bca20806f96b9b546a2&start=50

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/plug-weld.htm

http://www.turbocollective.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=3831&sid=a77c1feaf663e15bd7d420789e1420ec

 

[warpspeed]

Buy 22 gauge steel, 1.5 mm is too thick.

Folding the steel round as Martyn says it's the best way, I have done it countless times that way. Buy a handheld joddler for making your flanges, frost sell them.
Make the repair sections no more than 8" or so long as unless you have a folding machine you will have trouble herding nice straight folds, fold the bottom edge of each section just more than 90degs with an overlap of no more than 10 mm, that way once the section is tacked in place you can work the return lip up to match the vertical part without deforming your outer part, make sense.

Wish i was at home just now, i have loads of pics from when I replaced my inner and outer sills, about 100hrs welding in total, that was bootfloor, inner arches, floor pan and wide arches in steel.

 

[warpspeed]

Thanks everyone for trying to help i am uploading some photos to explain a bit better.

On the 1st photo the bit in green do i need to make a new edge coming down? if so i have done what i think needs doing in pink?

question number 2 .

In this photo i have put a red square (its very light i hope you can see it) where i think should be a support of some sort as there is just a little bit of rusty metal hanging down in a square shape?? do i need to replace it ?

i hope this helps as i am slowly confusing myself and most proberly others

thanks

sam

And that's not too bad, I had to replace right in to the rear trailing arm mount, count yourself lucky! Lol joke!

It's satisfying when you start making progress and know at the end it's solid and won't need done for years!

 

[warpspeed]

Also! Buy yourself some vactan rust convertor of ebay,1ltr should do you, paint everything with 2 coats.even the bits your about to welds, let it dry then grind back just where the welds will be.

 

[Gtirchris]

If you get stuck buddy, check out vord.net or migwelding.co.uk, the guy is a welding guru and his work is second to none!;-)

 

[pulsarmad20]

UPDATE

I Have taken rear sub frame off ,diff, petrol tank .... and the rust has taken over the car :doh: but not to worry im not giving up on it will get some photos up very soon.

thanks

sam

 

[pulsarboby]

jesus that is one very rotten car:shock:

fair play to you sam for having a go but tbh you would have been far better off crushing it and reshelling the car

lot less work much more cost effective and youll get something back if you ever flog it where as a patchwork quilt car wont be worth nothing as it will come back again just in different areas next to where its been previously welded.

 

[samgtr]

my sills were like that and i just re shelled as the a rust free shell was cheaper then buying the sills + paying labour etc..

good luck..

 

[geoff pine]

jesus that is one very rotten car:shock:

fair play to you sam for having a go but tbh you would have been far better off crushing it and reshelling the car

lot less work much more cost effective and youll get something back if you ever flog it where as a patchwork quilt car wont be worth nothing as it will come back again just in different areas next to where its been previously welded.

I have just looked at the last 2 photo,s and thought why is he bothering it's just scrap :lol:

 

[takumigtir]

Hi buddy just come across this post,i do a lot of welding myself especially on cars, also the mig welding website that someone has previosily mentioned is a housemates website and most the projects on that page have either been done or are being done in the workshop in my back yard. i am currently in the middle of repairing a pulsar in exactly the same areas but not as bad i have a number of photos that ill try and get up at some stage, basically as you know ther is a fair bit of work in getting it right you could just throw it together but it will never be right if your going to do it try and do it right, im sure the outer sill cover which you cut out to expose what you can see now is 1mm or only needs to be 1mm steel,the area you have in green and pink is where the floor pan skin meets the inner sill section which are both usually spot welded together, you could repair this by cutting out any more crap further up if needed and putting in 1.2mm steel to where your pink line is or just weld to the good edge if you have one. up to the rear of the driver door the outer sill cover (the piece your side skirts clip into) needs to be either made by yourself shaped etc leaving a lip that butts up to your new 1.2mm section which you will have welded in on the inner sill/floorpan area.(pink and green piece)this later can have some holes drilled through and plug welded (thats what i normally do) and butt welded to the edge that you have left of the outer sill cover(the edge in line with the centre of your front wheel in your photo). the rear part of the sill is more complicated as the inner sill merges out and turns into the outer sill if your doing it right then you weld another outer sill cover over the top. this will hopefully all make sense if i get photos up. basically where there is a vertical line on the pulsars on the sill by the rear of the drivers door is where the outer sill folds in, the easier way to do it for you though is to probably again continue with the same method as the front half of the sill,butt weld to outer sill cover and bend 90degree lip which can be plug welded to innersill/floorpan face.i wont start explaining the inner sill to inner wheel arch area etc as to be honest its alot of work for an inexperienced person to do and reshelling might be the better option for you. hope this helps in some way

 

[grim_d]

jesus that is one very rotten car:shock:

fair play to you sam for having a go but tbh you would have been far better off crushing it and reshelling the car

lot less work much more cost effective and youll get something back if you ever flog it where as a patchwork quilt car wont be worth nothing as it will come back again just in different areas next to where its been previously welded.

I disagree with this to an extent, a truly rust free shell must be quite hard to come by without it being a recent import and in that case you may have to buy a full car rather than a shell. I also think it's good to keep a car on the road for longer rather than just binning it, obviously some shells will be too far gone but sills/arches/floors are all easily repairable and if you are willing to do the work yourself it's a very rewarding experience. I may be slightly biased having dove head first into a full shell refurbishment. ;-)

If the work is done to a high standard, all rust removed, and the repairs are regularly protected with good cavity waxes and sealants etc there is no reason why the cancer will come back.

I can, however, understand the appeal of a new rust free shell, and maybe one day I'll be lucky enough to obtain one, but for now I am enjoying learning new skills and even if I got my hands on one I would still strip it back to metal and re paint everything underneath so 6 and half a dozen really plus I love getting the welder out. :-D

 

[takumigtir]

well said Grim d very true

 

[splmum]

I have just looked at the last 2 photo,s and thought why is he bothering it's just scrap :lol:

When I looked at the first photo's posted I had the same thought.

I have just helped a mate strip out his R to re-shell into another as the original was rotted out and we crushed it.

My point. The one we crushed was in better condition than what this unit looks to be.

If it was a veteran and the only one of the model left then I could see the value, but not on these buckets.

 

[Spikey]

Its not just the Sunnys. I have just finished an Mitsubishi Evo 6 which needed a full new floor and rear boot floor.
And that is an 99

 

[pulsarmad20]

Hi Every

I am not reshelling it due to the fact it is an english sunny gtir and i can not reregister an import in france as i learnt the hard way first time round when i bought an import pulsar and couldnt do any thing with it apart from sell it for parts!!

So i will have to just go ahead and patch it all up and replace everything.

thanks

sam

 

[splmum]

Hi Every
... it is an english sunny gtir ...

thanks

sam

This does sort of change my statement
"If it was a veteran and the only one of the model left then I could see the value, but not on these buckets."

Because it isn't just a run of the mill import bucket, it is a little bit more special than that, so I guess there is a legit reason for repairing it.

Good luck with your endeavours.

 

[pulsarboby]

ah! never realised it was a uk sunny sam
which as said above makes it that bit more special and worth doing in that case.

if a stock pulsar though i stand by what i said as even if done properly the car will never be worth anything if you come to sell it unless you weld in a whole new floorpan, (patches just dont really cut the mustard so to speak)
however if your doing it purely as a hobby for yourself then its all good practice and i can see the rewarding factor in it so as i said good on you sam for having a crack at it fella.

 

[pulsarmad20]

ah! never realised it was a uk sunny sam

Hi Bob

Thanks for the advise how ever it will be patches but the rusted parts are being cut out then it will be treated then new bit in, so should be better than a direct patch over the top of rust i hope any way. I have got 1.5 mm for most of it i have got the new sills as well and i have just bought some slightly heavier stuff to do 3 bits on the chassis as well.

the whole back off the car has been wire brushed down to its primer/bare metal and rust holes :shock:

i will try get some photos up soon

thanks

sam