Project Shit Box (2021)

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Also I'm struggling to plumb certain piped/items together, nothing seems to be quite right...

I feel that the top arrow might be for the BOV vacuum?

But the other (lower arrow) is for the fuel pressure regulator?

I've also got a random boost controller pipe not connected to anything and I'm wondering if it needs to be plumbed into something to close the loop?

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gtirx2

Active Member
Picture on last page not to sure possibly the stock boost solenoid which you won't be using.

2nd pic ignition module normally sits on a bracket bolted to the side of the cylinder head with thermal paste between it.
Can be mounted anywhere really the cooler the better.

3rd pic top arrow is to the boost solenoid stock or aftermarket 3 port which I assume is what you are running.
Then from 3 port to actuator.
The 3rd port on an after marker boost solenoid can be left vent to atmosphere or plumbed back into the intake pipe like it does as stock.

Ideally for better boost control apparently you are best off having as short as possible pipe run between the above or even better instead of using the top arrow pressure source tap directly into the turbos compressure cover if possible.


Bottom arrow is fuel pressure regulator and Ideally only run a single line to this don't T of this line as any leaks and you will run lean.


This thread is how I have plumbed mine in with the charcoal canister removed hope it helps.

 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Picture on last page not to sure possibly the stock boost solenoid which you won't be using.
100% right, found some older pictures on a hard drive and that wasn't connected to anything before I took the engine out! :thumbsup:

2nd pic ignition module normally sits on a bracket bolted to the side of the cylinder head with thermal paste between it.
Can be mounted anywhere really the cooler the better.
Looking back at pictures, this was NOT connected to anything and was literally connected to nothing, just hanging around in the engine bay!

3rd pic top arrow is to the boost solenoid stock or aftermarket 3 port which I assume is what you are running.
Then from 3 port to actuator.
The 3rd port on an after marker boost solenoid can be left vent to atmosphere or plumbed back into the intake pipe like it does as stock.
Yes, I think I've worked that out!
It was connected to the make shift "bleed valve" as a temporary fix to controll the boost before looking to intall proper controller!
I looks like it ran down to the bleed valve and then it was connected to the actuator.

Bottom arrow is fuel pressure regulator and Ideally only run a single line to this don't T of this line as any leaks and you will run lean.
Bit confused here. "only run a single line" a single line to where?
On my old photos, I don't have it connected to anything! o_O


This thread is how I have plumbed mine in with the charcoal canister removed hope it helps.

Thanks for the link.

The carbon canister went many years ago along with the idle control valve and all the crap round the back of the car.

I just have to remember which pipe goes to what on the turbo install now!
 

gtirx2

Active Member
If it was not connected to anything the car would of run massively lean on boost.
The fuel pressure regulator works on a 1 to 1 ratio so every 1 psi of boost it raises the fuel pressure 1psi if that makes sense.

I used the top smaller vacuum line from the black vacuum box on the back of the plenum as it's the correct size so no down size connectors needed and less chance of any leaks.
 

gtirx2

Active Member
I would also try and mount your ignition module somewhere and use thermal paste on what you bolt it to to act as a heat sink as they can over heat.

I modified my bracket turned it upside down and added a heat sink

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fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
If it was not connected to anything the car would of run massively lean on boost.
The fuel pressure regulator works on a 1 to 1 ratio so every 1 psi of boost it raises the fuel pressure 1psi if that makes sense.

I used the top smaller vacuum line from the black vacuum box on the back of the plenum as it's the correct size so no down size connectors needed and less chance of any leaks.
So the black vacuum box is long gone on my car.
All those bits and the idle control valve has been binned.

So I guess I need to find another point to plug the FPR into I guess.

I take it, this 1 to 1 ratio/psi is pre throttle bodies pressure then?
 

gtirx2

Active Member
No think it's post throttle bodies as need to see good vacuum as well as the fpr's 1to1 ratio works both ways.
When in vacuum it decreases the. fuel.pressure
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
So I think I've worked out all the locations for the hose and fuel lines etc.

Need to sort out a heat sink for the ignition module

Inline oil filter for the turbo is here.

Just need new brake discs ordering and then it should be a case of putting most of it back together over the weekends I have free in June and July.

If anyone has any suggestions on decent mapping companies in the North of the UK would be helpful...as everyone I've spoken to seems unwilling or not interested...
 

fubar andy

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Staff member
So been busy in the garage now I'm back from jolly days...

So I've got a bit of work done, however...
Fitting the new turbo, I've got a little clearance issue with the turbo inlet.

As you can see from the photos below the intake of the turbo now hits the gearbox housing.
This wasn't a current issue previously as the inlet was smaller however with this larger intake of around 75mm.

I'm a little stumped on how do get around this.
I've seen other posts, where people have shaved off part of the gearbox housing.
I have no intention of doing this however I'm wondering who is another way around this issue.

Custom manifold, chop off the inlet, spacers for the manifold?

Any suggestions will be very much appreciated!

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Sailor96

Member
I've seen many cut and welds on the aluminum cold side housing work really well. You would only have to remove the housing, have it cut and welded with a mandrel bent aluminum tube to direct it away front the gearbox. If you didn't want to change your current intake setup have it welded with a bend away and then subsequently towards the gearbox, offsetting it's centerline axis to point the same direction as OEM

Shortening the inlet and replacing the hose clamp type to a quick connect fitting (or V-band fitting). Then as long as your intake pipe doesn't interfere with the gearbox/ made a custom intake, it wouldn't interfere

Examples somewhat like these
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An even more cost effective way would be to cut the inlet, to say, a little over the minimum needed to secure a silicone hose with a suitable hose clamp. Having the hose bend away instead of a hard pipe. Sine the inlet should be almost at a vacuum there is little risk of it blowing off, so removing the small lip on the housings inlet wouldn't be detrimental
 
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Cathode

Active Member
Andy, i may have a spacer knocking about for this very reason that fits on the head for the exhaust mani. I can't remember how thick it is though. Do you think you'd be interested?

I had a 10mm spacer laser cut to fit the exhaust manifold to clear the gear box for my turbo. I think what i have is a template but it's essentially a spacer. It's metal. I don't think it's 10mm thick though. I 'll have a look anyway.
 

gtirx2

Active Member
There is a manifold spacer on ebay at the moment but think it's only 6.5mm thick so depends what you need.

You can some times get your original compressor cover re machined to suit the larger compressor wheel so it a direct bolt on.

This is what I have on my gt2871

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gtirx2

Active Member
I see you are running hks cams I assume the 264's?
Were these a drop in with the standard springs do you know?

Also what do you think k of them over the standard cams if you can remember?
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
I see you are running hks cams I assume the 264's?
Were these a drop in with the standard springs do you know?

Also what do you think k of them over the standard cams if you can remember?
Yes 264's

They were straight drop in replacements.

They've been in the car for over 20 years, so I can't really comment on how effective they are...
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
So...I'm totally overwhelmed with work at the moment, and I can't get a single second to even think about sorting the car let alone think about what I need to get done.

For the moment, I'm going to have to leave the build until my work load is reduced as I can't even get basic jobs at home sorted!
 
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