my next brake problem

Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
my next brake problem.. fixed

:doh: getting sick of this:-D

fitted my reconned rear calipers and bled the brakes (properly, several times..well about 18 pumps a corner in the end ) and my brakes are still crap.

my abs light is on and the abs ecu is giving me a code 6 front right. i think this is crap in the teeth or sensor from where a gator split a while ago...im gonna pull the hub of tomorrow and clean it out.

what i need to know is:-D

where is the fuse to disable the abs? there' s two on the passenger wing do i just pull those two and its off?

would having an abs fault cause my brakes to be really lame? its like there' s grease on the disks the cars just not stopping properly, i cant even brake hard enough at 30 to jerk to a stop!:cry:

there' s definitely NO air in the system too BTW :frusty:

cheers Stu
 
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abyss

abyss

Member
you can pull the fuses yes, if abs light is on it will just disable it and your brakes will work as normal. Probably a dodge sensor.
 
rayman75

rayman75

New Member
im not teaching you to suck eggs mate, did you bleed the brakes without the engine running????



as i made that mistake as this is the 1st car i have had with abs.
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
rayman75 said:
im not teaching you to suck eggs mate, did you bleed the brakes without the engine running????
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

ummmm.......yeah:-D

i just did it with the ignition on, how would having the engine running make any difference?

'so you just get an egg, insert it here'.......lol
 
PaulB

PaulB

Member
I have the same problem after fitting my wilwoods on the front. I didnt use a hammer or anything taking the old ones off, just spanners and that, so i was gutted now the abs light stays on.

I have tried taking both fuses out the front fuse box, but to no avail, the light is on all the time now, not just when i drive over 20mph like before.

never mind, let me know how you get on
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
removing the fuses wont make the light go out mate im just trying to get my brakes working properly lol.

take the cover off the abs ecu on the left side of the passenger footwell where the flare clips in. drive the car at over 19mph for a minute and count the flashes from the led thats on the abs ecu....

so Dave are you saying i have to bleed my brakes with the engine running??:?
 
rayman75

rayman75

New Member
yes mate, if my memory serves me rightly on other cars with non abs you dont need to, but with abs ones you do so it goes through the abs pump, im not sure on how the abs system works on these cars yet.

like i said, when i did my wilwoods i could still feel air in them, then i asked my mechanic mate to come round and the 1st thing he said did you have the engine running???? errr nope why is that coz the abs needs to be turned on, anyway ran the car and sh1tloads of air came out, give it a try.

i do need mine bleeding again, but im going to get them vacum bled, as these cars and master cylinders are getting old and not used to going down that far.
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
my cars got a newish master cylinder...

iv bled the brakes today with the engine running and its made no noticable difference:cry: iv pulled the 20amp abs fuse from the passenger wing....no difference:doh:

there cant be any air in the system iv put about a litre of fluid through it now:? :? :?

when braking it feels like there' s a block under the pedal halfway down and they arn' t spongy at all....

im on the verge of calling nissan:lol:
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
Stu, what brake hoses are you using?

If they are the std rubber ones you could find that the inner is separating and blocking it.

When you were bleeding the brakes and the nipple was undone, was there any extra effort required to press the pedal compared to when you've bled them before??
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
stumo said:
Stu, what brake hoses are you using?

If they are the std rubber ones you could find that the inner is separating and blocking it.

When you were bleeding the brakes and the nipple was undone, was there any extra effort required to press the pedal compared to when you've bled them before??
Click to expand...
iv got braided goodridge hoses all round:-D and yes mate when the engine was running it was harder to push the pedal down than when i just had the ignition on:?
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
yes mate when the engine was running it was harder to push the pedal down than when i just had the ignition on
Click to expand...
that's not what i was asking but it's helpful.

when the engine is running there should be a vacuum created in the servo,this will make the brake pedal easier to press.

If the pedal feels as hard or harder to press(can't see how) with the engine running it means the servo is not working.

It could be that there is a split in the vacuum hose (has the idle speed got higher-poss much higher)

or the one way valve has broken and stopped the vacuun getting to the servo

or the servo itself has broke.

try this for me.

with the engine off, press the brake pedal 10 times.

press and keep pressing the pedal and start the engine.....did the pedal move down?

if it did then the servo is getting a vacuum and seems to be working.

if the pedal doesn't do down then the servo (or the vacuum to the servo) isn't working.
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
lol! sorry my typo:lol:

ok then....:-D

pressed the brake pedal until it went hard with the engine off, held it down and started the engine and it moved down about a third to halfway and became softer again:doh:

guess that means the the servo' s ok:) i blame the gf for the comment on the pedal being harder with the engine running:der: she swore it was harder but when i tried it this morning.......:roll: i' ll give her a birching when she gets home:-D
 
Dooie Pop Pop

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
:deadhorse:

sorry to dig this up but seeing as iv actually developed some interest in driving the damn thing i thought id better get them fixed:-D

and before anyone says it... yes im a mong:mong:

to date i have changed in no particular order:

brake servo
hoses
front calipers (one was pretty stiff but still no difference)
rear calipers, already reconned
check valve

its not the master cylinder the peddle goes rock hard with no creep either. that leaves the distribution block on the bulkhead and physical damage of which i couldn' t see any:sad:

has anyone ever had one of those blocks fail?

cheers, stu
 
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