Good old "two pump brake" problem.

Trondelond

Trondelond

Active Member
Ok, don't shoot me, but where is it? :oops:
I had a quick snoop around the engine bay, but the only thing I noticed was what seemed to be the actuator (after looking in the manual). Which didn't have a bleed-nipple.
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
I am looking in how to solve it since i do not like the long travel. I might look at an aftermarket master or go all the way and change the whole pedal box for one with dual master + bias valve.


Here is the bias valve. I hope you do enjoy replacing it :)
 
Trondelond

Trondelond

Active Member
Oh, joy. At least it's easily accessible! :| The brakes are growing on me now though, but I'll see what I can do about that valve. Just hope it's in the same place, as nothing else is on my LHD car!

Don't go for that pedal box thing, go for something that I can easily mimic! :D

And thanks! :)
 
V

velly4

Member
I will be trying a couple of mods with my master cylinder & brake booster soon.
Plan is to run without a brake booster & shorten the pedal travel.
When done I'll let you know Trond
 
watoga

watoga

Member
Trip said:
Here is the bias valve. I hope you do enjoy replacing it :)
Click to expand...
LOL! So with the intake plenum on there's no way of reaching this from the top of the engine bay. What about from underneath? Is there any way of adjusting, bleeding, or replacing from underneath?

However, the clutch master cylinder definitely looks easier to replace with the intake plenum off! :thumbsup:

Dave
 
Trondelond

Trondelond

Active Member
At least there's an upside to an LHD car - practically nothing from the available RHD interior or brake master cylinder/clutch pedal supports fit, but all work on the clutch is really easy and accessible. :D
I couldn't understand why everyone was complaining about adjusting the pedal travel or replacing the seals. Nanana.
 
D

DaveGtir

New Member
load bias valve is usually on the rear brakes somewhere,usually where the rear brake pipes split to the rear wheels,hope this helps....

Dave
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
DaveGtir said:
load bias valve is usually on the rear brakes somewhere,usually where the rear brake pipes split to the rear wheels,hope this helps....

Dave
Click to expand...

the rear brakes pipes split from the bias valve which is situated on the firewall.
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
Trond. Was looking at uprated Wilwood M/C's and if i could figure it right, it involves more then just changing the M/C.

The Willwood M/C 2 outlet ports are already baised in a way and on the manual it states to connect one port to the front channel and the other to the rear. So i am assuming the standard bias valve needs to be removed, and both rears and front pipes need to be T'ed together and connected directly to the M/C

quote from wilwood

Connect one of the primary outlet ports (A) to the brakes at the end of the vehicle with the greatest total effective piston bore area.
On most vehicles, this will be the front brake line (see note next page).​
•​
Connect one of the secondary outlet ports (B) to the brakes at the end of the vehicle with the lesser total effective piston bore​

area. On most vehicles, this will be the rear brake line (see note next page).
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
Strangly enough, on the same manual it also states the following:

Pressure Output Ratio (A/B) 50 / 50

and

Use an adjustable proportioning valve to set the front to rear brake bias
 
M

matp5

Member
I have similar issues with my Wilwood 6 pot front set up. Stock rear brakes are just not clamping on the rotors enough... result is rusty rear discs. On the track I have to double brake. Autocross I just have crappy braking power. I replaced the tandem pistons in the master cylinder, no difference.

Next step I'm trying is more agressive rear pads, but I think the brake bias is screwed up with so much braking power in front. Wondering if changing the prop valve would be a good idea, or replace the OE prop valve with an ajustable aftermarket one?
 
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