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pulsarboby
Guest
evidentally he fitted a manual pressure reg on car and its holding good pressure at boost which kind of rules out the pump and oe regulator
Do not look
- Thread starter mightydquinn
- Start date
mightydquinn
Member
Thank you, :lol: your a great help, I'd be screwed without you for bits and help ......and advice, as I'm sure many others will agree!
Your a saint bob!!
Chris, ive got a lambda sensor in the garage you can try, but guessing you'll need the other bits sending aswell from bob just in case its not that. Cant see it being lamba to be honest as it only uses that when in closed loop, full throttle you will be in open loop so the ecu shouldnt be taking any feedback from it. Let me know if you need a hand at the weekend at all.
mightydquinn
Member
Hopefully I'll be getting the bits real soon from Bob to try, if anything goes wrong I'll let you know!:-D and if I get stuck and need help, I'll definately take you up on that offer!
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pulsarboby
Guest
bits are booked in for todays collection chris, with other parcels going out.
chris s....yes your probably right when you think about it, lambda should make no difference at wot but il send one out anyway.
jim.... with lambda removed youll probably find she will run a bit lumpy on tick over and possibly on partial throttle as ecu takes afr measurement from it amongst other sensors which constantly are adjusting fuelling, so if its disconnected then it will more than likely be running too rich, but as said on wot it should make no difference tbh.
if someone knows any better then please correct me as im not 100% sure, but seem to remember emissions rising at base idle with it disconnected (as with any car) which would indicate excess fuelling.
chris s....yes your probably right when you think about it, lambda should make no difference at wot but il send one out anyway.
jim.... with lambda removed youll probably find she will run a bit lumpy on tick over and possibly on partial throttle as ecu takes afr measurement from it amongst other sensors which constantly are adjusting fuelling, so if its disconnected then it will more than likely be running too rich, but as said on wot it should make no difference tbh.
if someone knows any better then please correct me as im not 100% sure, but seem to remember emissions rising at base idle with it disconnected (as with any car) which would indicate excess fuelling.
Fusion Ed
Active Member
Lambda only works on a small part of the ecu map. About the first half, after this its just reading map values. The cars will run fine without and the lambda does nothing at all until the engine is upto temp. If its not there the ECU will just not correct the base AFR. which it only has a relatively small control over anyway. It should not be enough to notice really (without emissions tester). With it not there you would perhaps find slightly richer idle, but it can also go leaner too.
It looks to me as if the ECU is not seeing engine load properly. I would probably start with the MAF, and as it is an unusual fault change the ecu. I have seen them damaged by water getting in from previously blown heater matrix before.
Ed
It looks to me as if the ECU is not seeing engine load properly. I would probably start with the MAF, and as it is an unusual fault change the ecu. I have seen them damaged by water getting in from previously blown heater matrix before.
Ed
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pulsarboby
Guest
parts are now en route chris, lets hope that one of them fix your problem for you
mightydquinn
Member
Thankyou very much :-D Well I've got all my fingers and toes crossed so hopefully that will help too! :lol: As soon as it's sorted I'll be sure to let you know
Im just back from giving chris a hand, swopped the afm and ecu bob sent and the car is still no different. No fault codes showing. It almost feels as though its in safe mode, feels like its holding back although saying that its a long time since ive driven one with a standard turbo ect.
Boost builds and holds but seems to be much later than id expect. Also, the one i cant get my head round at all, even with the line to the actuator disconnected it still wont boost past 0.9bar.
If the car was accessing the safe mode and pulling the timing right back would this have any effect on the boost it can pull?
Anybody got any more suggesions as Chris needs the car sorting for the track day on tuesday.
Boost builds and holds but seems to be much later than id expect. Also, the one i cant get my head round at all, even with the line to the actuator disconnected it still wont boost past 0.9bar.
If the car was accessing the safe mode and pulling the timing right back would this have any effect on the boost it can pull?
Anybody got any more suggesions as Chris needs the car sorting for the track day on tuesday.
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pulsarboby
Guest
has anyone actually checked the base timing on this car?
sounds to me as though the engine timing could be out which will cause the car to struggle when coming on boost and it will obviously be lacking loads of power which it is
get a timing gun and set it to 20 degrees then make sure second mark from left on the pulley is aligned with pointer on pump cover, might be easier to mark the segment on crank pulley with a bit of tipex or similar!
my guess is it will be out;-)
sounds to me as though the engine timing could be out which will cause the car to struggle when coming on boost and it will obviously be lacking loads of power which it is
get a timing gun and set it to 20 degrees then make sure second mark from left on the pulley is aligned with pointer on pump cover, might be easier to mark the segment on crank pulley with a bit of tipex or similar!
my guess is it will be out;-)
gtir_pimp
New Member
wasnt the car ok untill the turbo died and only started giving agro after it was rebuilt and refitted? so timing should be ok?
Another one to try. Presumed it had already been looked at. Will that link with the fueling issue though?
stabbing in the dark but other tests he could do that are easy if he hasnt done them already....
-boost and vac leak test - pressurised from turbo and doesnt appear to be any leaks
-ecu fault code check - clear, showing 5 -5
-injector check and clean - not sure on that one
-blank off dump valve - standard recirc fitted. One thing i noticed, the car does sound different to other R's ive been in. Sounds like an air noise, different from the induction type noise. Back at york dragway a few months back fast guy also commented on the car sounding strange, almost screemer pipe like. Could air be leaking from anywhere else?
-re-earth maf - dont think this has been done
-change det sensor - Changed
-boost and vac leak test - pressurised from turbo and doesnt appear to be any leaks
-ecu fault code check - clear, showing 5 -5
-injector check and clean - not sure on that one
-blank off dump valve - standard recirc fitted. One thing i noticed, the car does sound different to other R's ive been in. Sounds like an air noise, different from the induction type noise. Back at york dragway a few months back fast guy also commented on the car sounding strange, almost screemer pipe like. Could air be leaking from anywhere else?
-re-earth maf - dont think this has been done
-change det sensor - Changed
gtir_pimp
New Member
theres a guide on here somewhere on how to re-earth the maf. to check injectors are spraying evenly you have to undo the fuel rail and try to start the car to see the spray pattern of the injectors. bob or someone else will have to explain how this is done better.blank dump valve as you wont always be able to hear them leaking. and what psi did you get to when you checked for boost leaks? that air noise could be a boost leak.
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pulsarboby
Guest
this is the first thing i said to chris with regard to the air leaks etc but hes adament that there is none!
get some washing up liquid and dilute it with a bit of water about 50/50 and spray it all around the inlet manifold and on underside (stay away from injector solenoids)
if it starts to idle really lumpy then chances are that he has a huge air leak around the throrttle bodies area.
wished i had been closer as i would have loved to have a look at this one, something there is very very wrong indeed. at the power thats making and the way car is running there must be a glaring fault staring at you lol
it wont be injectors aron as all 4 would need to be underfuelling and that is most unlikely, if an injector is faulty it will normally chuck a stream of fuel into the cylinder causing it to run very rich and the hydro carbon levels would go through the roof.
get some washing up liquid and dilute it with a bit of water about 50/50 and spray it all around the inlet manifold and on underside (stay away from injector solenoids)
if it starts to idle really lumpy then chances are that he has a huge air leak around the throrttle bodies area.
wished i had been closer as i would have loved to have a look at this one, something there is very very wrong indeed. at the power thats making and the way car is running there must be a glaring fault staring at you lol
it wont be injectors aron as all 4 would need to be underfuelling and that is most unlikely, if an injector is faulty it will normally chuck a stream of fuel into the cylinder causing it to run very rich and the hydro carbon levels would go through the roof.
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In fairness it does feel like its got more than the 135bhp the graph gave!!! Kept staring at it and no faults jumped out. You might still get your moment of glory in finding it bob if its still running like that on tuesday.
Will take a dump valve down tommorow aswell to try instead of the recirc on it just to rule that leaking out aswell.