Bloody idle, need help

GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
ok well tonight i have clamped off the pipe from the iac and disconnected the two plugs from the control valve screwed the screw all the way in and i thought to myself well its got to be cured now as no air can get through at all, started her up 1100rpm :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: i thought it should barley be idling if even but it seems to have made no difference if i disconnect the tps then it idles at 1500 still


my question is what can control this figure???
 
A

AJ4

Guest
air leaking past the throttle plates, worn spindles, throttle plates not adjusted properly, blanking caps leaking or missing on balance ports..... etc etc
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
im sure the plates are adjusted properly i did it via the manual i checked the throttle butterflies using 4 vacuum gauges and they all read the same so i assume they are correct as no one has a figure for this;-) all blanking plugs present and not leaking

by worn spindles do you mean the actual rods which the throttle plates sit on? if these were worn i would have thought it would show itself while accelerating more??

since timing was set at 20 deg its always run high when hot i have even swopped the inlet manifold!!!
 
Chiffs

Chiffs

New Member
Going to get my mate sledge out very shortly:doh:

Given up till next week, found my old idle control valve as per the pic which i took apart and cleaned, going to do the test on that to see if it comes up wiht good reading an dmaybe change it if ok.

The other one i was thinking of was the air valve thing that almost in the middle under the engine, was thinking of changing that if it can be got at with the engine in?

Have not checked the butterflys yet.
Could i check the balance of the butterflys using the vaccum reading from a boost gauge (have a spare one, cheap and crude i know)?
What figures did you end up with Loz?

Apart from those i really dont know what to do.
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
well i used a motorbike one!! and i just checked to see if they were all level to be honest i think the figure they give is generally your vacuum figure on your boost gauge anyway so unless they are not the same values i would leave alone, i checked my earth millivolts as per the modifiers website and mine are different but i cannot get them lower at all i have oredered a grounding kit to see if that makes any difference but prob wont:roll:

the valve can only be got at by removing the inlet manifold or the support bracket and then you have to do it from underneath you can get a hose clamp on the pipe under the manifold that leads to the contorl valve block so you can block any air coming through but as above it did fook all:target:
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
I've not read all the posts but have you got a tight throttle cable?

Another thing to check is the adjustment of the two adjusters**, one on the cam chain end of the manifold and the other in the middle.

(**the thing with two small rose joints)
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
yeah we have tried that it appears its not throttle realted or the inlet manifold or idle control its something else thats why no one seems to have cured it fully yet
 
Chiffs

Chiffs

New Member
guess its just a case of trying different things and one thing is going to make the difference which will make it idle correctly.

just not found that thing yet:doh: :doh:

prob someting very simple just not found it yet, hopefully myself or loz will sort it at some point in the future maybe and then we can change everyone else for the solution eh mate:-D
 
GTIR-LOZ

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
yeah def it does have to be something simple as we have tried all the hard things first :der: i will keep plodding away until its sorted though as it really does annoy me and cannot be good for the clutch having to constantly lower the idle via the biting point:doh:
 
snoon

snoon

New Member
Did you get this problem sorted?

I have same issue. Run ok from cold, but once warmed up idles at 1450 ish and smells a little rich.

Cheers

Shaun
 
Chiffs

Chiffs

New Member
Hi Shaun,

Yep idles a treat now, all the things i did brought the idle down slightly each time i changed something.

Off the top of me head they where:-

ECU water temp sensor
Re-earthed afm
New lambda
Adjusted throttle balance screws right in
Checked lots for air leaks
Adjusted idle air control valve right in
Re-tensioned spring in air by pass valve (under middle of inlet)


This lot brought it down to about 1350rpm.

Was not happy after spending quite a lot of time and money doing this.

I therefore decided to adjust the throttle butterflys, sorted the idle right out as it now idles nicely at 950-1050rpm.
 
Chiffs

Chiffs

New Member
I just wound the small stops back which are a complete mare to get too.

Loosen the adjusting rods lock nuts and then with the centre adjuster rod have a play, turn one way to lengthen and other to shorten.

Its really a case of adjusting the stops and rods so they both sit on the stops and with the butterflys fully closed.

Not to easy when you cant see the butterflys unless you take the inlet apart.
 
snoon

snoon

New Member
Does the inlet have to come off and apart to get to the butterfly's?

Damn Nissan, inlet has to come off to do owt!
 
Chiffs

Chiffs

New Member
The hardest thing is loosening the stops. adjusting the butterflys is easy.

I did it all with the inlet on
 
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