Bloody idle, need help

Chiffs

New Member
Before you say read the post on high idle probs, have done.

Its like this.

Start car fires up and idles at 1500 and slowly drops to around 1000.

Fine and dandy

Drive car around and once its all warmed up its idleing at anything between 1500 and 1850ish:evil:

So far have:-
Fault code check (all clear)
Re-earthed afm
Tryed adjusting idle with idle screw (no difference)
Reset TPS to 0.5volts (no difference)
Checked for air leak several times (not found any yet)
Timing was set at 20 deg a while age when it did idle at 1000rpm

Plus other bits i cant thinnk of at the mo.

Looking at my emanage and monitoring the injectors are running at 2% with afm voltage of around 1.4 volts i think

Only way i found to bring down a bit was to reduce the fueling and retard the timing at idle with emanage.
Not ideal but its really starting to **** me off now and that was the only way i have found so far.

The car is running these mods:-

Kakimoto exhaust
Apexi filter
GFB blow off valve
Walbro fuel pump
AVC-R
FMIC

So what controls the idle once the car is all warmed up (idle air control valve? )

So any ideas as have 12 days off from sunday and want to sort this as ive had enough.:evil: :evil:

Thanks Chiffs
 

Chiffs

New Member
Is there any way to check the lamba?

Cant it be done by fault code and then counting flashes or something with engine running?

How much are lambas and if poss where from apart from ripoff nissan:roll:

Any lamba do or specific type/model?
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
i have the same prob it may be the valve under the engine inlet manifold which is bolted to the head which uses an internal heater to shut it off, i have tried swopping the control valve and its made no diff but its a pain to reove the inlet so i was hoping someone else would try it first;-)
 

Chiffs

New Member
Loz i have also tried this as i have two of them valve things and it made no difference:roll: Can be changed without removing the inlet mani as i have done it. (sore hands afterwards:evil: )
Even took it apart and cleaned it before fitting.

Might go for the lamba.
 
N

Ninja_tune_factory

Guest
chiffs i think i got a lambda sensor at home some where could look for you if you want to try it ?

let me no
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
there is another valve under the sctual inlet manifold not the idle control valve it is mounted on the back side of the head and feeds air into the idle control valve if you look down by injector number 2 there is a pipe behind the msnifold this attaches to the said valve
 

Chiffs

New Member
Loz whats that valve for?

Ninja tune if you got one thats known to be good, always worth a try, will let you know for sure as a mate of mine is going to get us a price and if it aint to mad might just buy new one.
 
N

Ninja_tune_factory

Guest
np dude , its a 2nd hand one that come off my car , it works im shor just need to find it
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
i believe its for increasing the idle on start up but as it uses an internal heater i imagine its prone to failure

:attention:

4 : IAR Idle Air Regulator. Sits underneath plenum, works like an automatic choke ( but just for air ). Always switches on whenever you start the car and works on temperature, cold means open ( higher idle ) and gradually closes when intake heats up ( 3 minutes or so ? ). It has a heater inside so will always come on whether the engine is hot or cold and gradually close over the 3 minutes or so. Looks like a small cone with a disc stuck on the end with a pipe on each side.
 

Chiffs

New Member
Latest is i have done the o2 sensor check when first started nothing so reset fault thing back to normal.

Went for a drive and repeated when i got back and was flashing.

Going to change this tommorrow.

Also now its started to hunt sometimes at idle if you can call 1700 rpm idle.

Have had engine temp sensor suggested, where is it and what do you reckon?
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
if you mean the coolant temp sensor i changed that and it made no difference i really think it may be that valve on the back of the head, if you dont have the plenum bracket you should be able to change it fairly easily
 

Dooie Pop Pop

New Member
you might need a deep 19mm 3/8 socket to change that coolant sensor;) i too went down this road and tbh i rewired my lambda and changed the sensor at the same time so im not 100% which cured my tickover problem:oops::lol: one of them fixed it though but its still not 100% as it takes to long to drop properly when i pull up somewhere the fist time its started. it seems to be improving with the weather though which is odd:lol: id have thought if it was the sensor it would have been 100% fixed.

new lambda is £135 from nissan btw
 
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Chiffs

New Member
Dooie how much was the coolant sensor?

Think im going to end up going down the same route replacing both:roll:

Out of interest has anyone replaced the idle control vavle, how for it? scary i bet.

Going down to a garage later where me mate works, going to put it on a rolling road and diagnostics and see what we can find as well as change the o2 sensor
 
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GTIR-LOZ

New Member
as i said i replaced my temp sensor and it changed nothing and i have the same symptoms as you try changing the lambda first as it may save you a few pounds
 
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