johnsy
Active Member
cheers si
Air filters
- Thread starter johnsy
- Start date
red reading
Active Member
Have to say that is bull lenths and angle wise
red reading
Active Member
2 45s 76mm pipe,a z32 and a 800hp rated K&N air filter.
mine same as above, 76mm, 2x45 steel pipe, z32 + large itg foam cone stuffed up against wing wall (about 1/4 of it blocked as no room) made 350 @ 1 bar no problem. itg sucks though as is oiled and buggers the maf up every so many miles. am now on a dry simota cone/funnel. but am going the k+n route.
my setup picture, excuse ghetto cardboard lol
my setup picture, excuse ghetto cardboard lol
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skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Most people will just be buying pre bent pipes off ebay Dan and don't have experience working with metal.A 90 degreee bend makes the 2 turns in less space than 2 45's so it ain't bull that it can push it up against the wing as others have found too.
This is mine. Stainless pipe with 2x45 degree bends, standard maf and M's k&n
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u308/dazdrums/SDC10218.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u308/dazdrums/SDC10218.jpg
red reading
Active Member
bought of ebay no metal work involved, I would not expect anyone to be able to do metal work, but if you are modding your car why fit something as restrictive as a standard part, 2x 90 degree bends have a very narrow relative cross sectional area.and every restriction you put in pre turbo is multiply's post turbo.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Thats a nice pipe, not seen them like that on ebay before or I'd have got one myself.I was just trying to keep it simple as others will search and find this thread.I thought you might have made something like that up yourself and maybe welded 2x45's together or something but thats a good solution.
Johnsy, you should have just bought Dan's pipe too you muppet
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Johnsy, you should have just bought Dan's pipe too you muppet
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johnsy
Active Member
70 quid was a little steep!, besides at the time i thought the 45 was enough. It was nt until johny mentioned the other night about surge, then raised the topic on this thread, I thought it was internet or tuner scaremongaring to be honest.Thats a nice pipe, not seen them like that on ebay before or I'd have got one myself.I was just trying to keep it simple as others will search and find this thread.I thought you might have made something like that up yourself and maybe welded 2x45's together or something but thats a good solution.
Johnsy, you should have just bought Dan's pipe too you muppet
These are the two 76mm x 90deg stainless 316L bends i have
you live n learn, im a fooking wood butcher ffs
red reading
Active Member
£70 was cheap for the alloy pipe with the 2 quality silicons (not cheap shite), do the 90 degree thing and strangle the turbo all the stuff i write up is just for fun people..lol70 quid was a little steep!, besides at the time i thought the 45 was enough. It was nt until johny mentioned the other night about surge, then raised the topic on this thread, I thought it was internet or tuner scaremongaring to be honest.
These are the two 76mm x 90deg stainless 316L bends i have
you live n learn, im a fooking wood butcher ffs
johnsy
Active Member
I ordered the 90's about 3 month ago when i bought the turbo and rad off you not knowing you had that pipe for sale aswell, but after forking out all that money i could nt well justify spending another 70 quid on a pipe, aswell as picking up the 45 deg bend for no more than the postage it cost to send
, like i say im not a know all when it comes to motors this is the first time iv heard-out or read anything about surge from not having enough bends in a pipe, is it really gonna strangle the turbo any more than a K&N filter over a blitz sus, I asked if the 90's were any good and you ve really not said yay or nay till si posted up,
The car will be going for a trip to rolling road once its been live mapped, iv done a bit more o/t so i might just take that pipe off you danny and see just how restrictive the 90's are over the 45,
I still have a open dispute over the 90's (ebay) as they took 2 month to turn up, all i need do is return post and get my money back,
sorry if it seems im not listening to your advice, tis not the case
, like i say im not a know all when it comes to motors this is the first time iv heard-out or read anything about surge from not having enough bends in a pipe, is it really gonna strangle the turbo any more than a K&N filter over a blitz sus, I asked if the 90's were any good and you ve really not said yay or nay till si posted up,
The car will be going for a trip to rolling road once its been live mapped, iv done a bit more o/t so i might just take that pipe off you danny and see just how restrictive the 90's are over the 45,
I still have a open dispute over the 90's (ebay) as they took 2 month to turn up, all i need do is return post and get my money back,
sorry if it seems im not listening to your advice, tis not the case
red reading
Active Member
It's not about what you have and have'nt purchased dan, its more about people getting funny over the facts of research, if you want the best bang for buck blow thru is the way, as for K&n over blitz the blitz is just steel mesh which has the filtration quality of chicken wire and dust/water hitting a turbo compressor at the speeds it runs at is just daft, never mind the crap geting into the engine (i had a car thats plenum was full of dust and oil and it was like grinding paste from a blitz filter) at the end of the day you want the turbo inlet as direct as is practical for the installation and 2x 90s is not ideal and neither is using silicons for it as they rob power from vacuem induced shrinkage.
at the end of the day just use the maximum amount of solid pipe work with the minimum amount of bends in it from inlet to exhaust (bar the fact of 2 45s min for the turbo inlet on a draw thru maf)
at the end of the day just use the maximum amount of solid pipe work with the minimum amount of bends in it from inlet to exhaust (bar the fact of 2 45s min for the turbo inlet on a draw thru maf)
I just used some industrial plastic ducting to smooth out any bends and put the air filter where I wanted. It's cheaper, lighter, more insulative and easier to install than metal hard pipes.
I realise this is marginal but I don't understand why people always want to use hard pipes on the intake where there is no pressure?
I bought it from my local hydraulics shop who told me it was also used on combine harvesters for the corn feed and is pretty hard wearing for abrasion and temperature. stumo did similar with a motorsport equivalent that looked better insulated and less gay. My version was a few quid, his added a zero.
The angles look similar to the hard pipe posted by Danny. I couldn't say if I had any problems with reverberations on the Z32 as mapping my own car I would have just mapped around it before I knew what was happening.
I realise this is marginal but I don't understand why people always want to use hard pipes on the intake where there is no pressure?
I bought it from my local hydraulics shop who told me it was also used on combine harvesters for the corn feed and is pretty hard wearing for abrasion and temperature. stumo did similar with a motorsport equivalent that looked better insulated and less gay. My version was a few quid, his added a zero.
The angles look similar to the hard pipe posted by Danny. I couldn't say if I had any problems with reverberations on the Z32 as mapping my own car I would have just mapped around it before I knew what was happening.
stumo
Active Member
The less gay part was very important 8)
I used polyurethane designed to operate at 100degC that was also flame retardent and abrasion/pressure resistant. The thinking was if ambient hits 100degC the engine has bigger problems.
The local hydraulics shop are petrol heads and work with a lot of machinery so were able to advise. It's been fine for many years with no signs of wear or damage. If it had shown any signs of wear I would have replace it for another £3 :lol:
They had it in the shop but could have ordered a rubberised version suitable to 150degC but I never needed it. You can buy Nomex ducts too which are more resistant to temperature but less resistant to pressure.
I'm not suggesting people pop down B&Q and buy a bit of drainpipe ;-)
The local hydraulics shop are petrol heads and work with a lot of machinery so were able to advise. It's been fine for many years with no signs of wear or damage. If it had shown any signs of wear I would have replace it for another £3 :lol:
They had it in the shop but could have ordered a rubberised version suitable to 150degC but I never needed it. You can buy Nomex ducts too which are more resistant to temperature but less resistant to pressure.
I'm not suggesting people pop down B&Q and buy a bit of drainpipe ;-)
But there is pressure, a negative pressure. If you have a good unrestrictive intake from the turbo onwards, the manufacturers softer turbo inlet pipe can sometimes collapse under boost as it's sucking that hard it causes a strong vacuum. A hard pipe won't do that, but the downside is it may mask a restrictive inlet to the turbo.
Plus with a hard pipe you can make a diammeter to suit your engine and it can be a much smoother passage for the air.
Spikey, it depends how close to a heat source it gets.
I agree with that, my main concern was not temperature but the pipe collapsing which is why I went for the strongest one first. I'm just saying there is another way.