Which pads?

J

JayRA

Guest
Which brake pads would you guys recommend for Wilwood four pots and where from?
Cheers
J
 

youngsyp

New Member
If you can get them, Carbotech XP10's.

They seem to be the pad of choice right now, for a lot of the Japanese performance marques.

Failing that, Ferodo DS2500's.

Paul
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Depends on what your going to be doing with your car?

If your going to be just pottering around town then I would recommend a nice set of Mintex 1144’s. These are easy to find at most motorsport part supplies or Demon Tweeks. They will take a decent fast road beating, couple them with some rear 1144’s and you’ll be sorted.

If your going to be heading more of a fast road/trackday set up then perhaps some Mintex 1155’s, CarboTech XP8’s or DS2500’s.
These pads are good for fast B road driving and should cope with most things that you throw at it. On track they offer decent braking efficiency and should fair well dependant on how hard you work them. Again it’s worth having these all round rather than just the fronts.

If you want to go mental/overkill then I would recommend Mintex 1166’s, CarboTech XP10’s or DS3000’s.
Now I say overkill as these pads are too grippy for my car on track. As mine is stripped out there is a lot less weight/force that is needed to slow my car down. Granted with a fully laden GTiR inc fuel and interior then it might be necessary but even then I’m doubtful if that’s needed.

I’d also recommend braded line all round as these also help with braking and give a more confident feel. Also make sure you use decent brake fluid and change that if and when it needs changing

All these items are available as I said before at a local motorsport part supplies or Demon Tweeks
 

youngsyp

New Member
Just to add, if you decide to go for a set of Carbotech pads but, you can't get them for your calipers, you can send an old set of backing plates to them and they'll re-line them for you, with the compound you specify.
The PantherPlus will have around the same properties as the M1144 pads, that Andy has recommended above.

Paul
 

GTiRlover

New Member
fubar andy- I am using Ferodo DS2500's on the front of my car at the moment and must say that the braking is more than adequate;) Have you used these pads on the track? If you have what are your opinions, are they consistent or do they fade quickly?

How much extra performance do the DS3000's offer and is the wear rate any faster? I am aware the 3000's are intended for track use but how do they fare on the road? I presume they need some heat in them to start working at their best?...
 
J

JayRA

Guest
fubar andy said:
If your going to be heading more of a fast road/trackday set up then perhaps some Mintex 1155’s, CarboTech XP8’s or DS2500’s.
Thanks for all the help guys, fast B road and the occasional track day driving sounds about right for me, so think I will be going for a set of one of the above :thumbsup:
J
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
GTiRlover said:
fubar andy- I am using Ferodo DS2500's on the front of my car at the moment and must say that the braking is more than adequate;) Have you used these pads on the track? If you have what are your opinions, are they consistent or do they fade quickly?

How much extra performance do the DS3000's offer and is the wear rate any faster? I am aware the 3000's are intended for track use but how do they fare on the road? I presume they need some heat in them to start working at their best?...
I’ve got the “test kit” 304mm K-Sports 6 pots on my car coupled with the DS2500’s.
As a trackday pad they faired up well. No major issues with fade and the ware rate was slow.

However there are many different factors that may be different to your car than mine. The fact that I have 304mm 28mm thick discs help a lot disperse heat rather than my older 280mm 24mm thick Wilwoods 4 pots that suffered heat build up far too easily. :doh:

As I mentioned before, weight is also a factor as my car weights between 1050-1100kgs there is a shite less mass to slow down so the pads don’t have to do too much work. Where a full weight GTiR would need more grip from the pads to slow it down.

My personnel opinion is try out your DS2500’s on track. Dependant on what brake system you have they should be ok, again this also depends on how you drive and how hard you brake!

Bob (pulsarboby) mentioned that the DS3000’s are not really suitable for road use, so you could always have a spare set for track and one for the road like I do! ;-)

If the DS2500 are failing on track, make sure you’ve uprated the rear pads, I’ve read about people who say the rear brakes do hardly any work, I would like to differ as I’ve personally seen mine burn the backing plates – these were uprated pads too! So its well worth looking at sorting something out as well, also braded lines all round.

If all else fails then a nice set of DS3000’s might be the trick, but always look at other areas before whacking in a hardcore set of pads.
I've not used DS3000's but I have had Mintex 1166's and these are a simlar compound ;-) good on track crap on the road and they squeek like mad!
 

GTi-R23

New Member
How do you find the DS2500's from cold Andy? I'm not overly impressed with my brakes at the moment tbh, I'm running Wilwood 4 pots on new 310x28mm discs and DS2500 pads, with new black diamond disks and pads at rear, just doesn't give the braking performance i was hoping for, seem to work better once really heated up. Already have braided lines and calipers seem to be in good nick. Have to really press on the pedal to slow up fast, is this usual for R's, needing alot of pedal effort?

Only drove a few others and they were standard brakes so were useless anyway.
 

GTiRlover

New Member
fubar andy said:
I’ve got the “test kit” 304mm K-Sports 6 pots on my car coupled with the DS2500’s.
As a trackday pad they faired up well. No major issues with fade and the ware rate was slow.

However there are many different factors that may be different to your car than mine. The fact that I have 304mm 28mm thick discs help a lot disperse heat rather than my older 280mm 24mm thick Wilwoods 4 pots that suffered heat build up far too easily. :doh:

As I mentioned before, weight is also a factor as my car weights between 1050-1100kgs there is a shite less mass to slow down so the pads don’t have to do too much work. Where a full weight GTiR would need more grip from the pads to slow it down.

My personnel opinion is try out your DS2500’s on track. Dependant on what brake system you have they should be ok, again this also depends on how you drive and how hard you brake!

Bob (pulsarboby) mentioned that the DS3000’s are not really suitable for road use, so you could always have a spare set for track and one for the road like I do! ;-)

If the DS2500 are failing on track, make sure you’ve uprated the rear pads, I’ve read about people who say the rear brakes do hardly any work, I would like to differ as I’ve personally seen mine burn the backing plates – these were uprated pads too! So its well worth looking at sorting something out as well, also braded lines all round.

If all else fails then a nice set of DS3000’s might be the trick, but always look at other areas before whacking in a hardcore set of pads.
I've not used DS3000's but I have had Mintex 1166's and these are a simlar compound ;-) good on track crap on the road and they squeek like mad!
Thanks for the reply. To be honest I wrote that question very single mindedly, I hadn't taken into consideration the weight of the car or the braking system using the pads. Although you say the DS2500s fair well on track which answers my question.

You made the point about the rear braking being more important than most people realise. I am guilty of this because I have read lots of people saying that the ratio is 80% front and 20% rear. Is this accurate? Have you had any experience with a braking bias valve, if so what are your opinions?
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
GTi-R23 said:
How do you find the DS2500's from cold Andy? I'm not overly impressed with my brakes at the moment tbh, I'm running Wilwood 4 pots on new 310x28mm discs and DS2500 pads, with new black diamond disks and pads at rear, just doesn't give the braking performance i was hoping for, seem to work better once really heated up. Already have braided lines and calipers seem to be in good nick. Have to really press on the pedal to slow up fast, is this usual for R's, needing alot of pedal effort?

Only drove a few others and they were standard brakes so were useless anyway.

They are a bit pants from cold. I say this as I once set off from home and came to the 1st set of traffic lights on red (one of many) I over shot the stop point at 30mph by about a metre. Granted they were stone cold, but once I’ve pressed them a few times afterwards they seem to wake/warm up and stop better. That’s why I recommend Mintex 1144’s as I’ve never had a “cold issue” press the peddle and instant stoppage.
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
GTiRlover said:
I am guilty of this because I have read lots of people saying that the ratio is 80% front and 20% rear. Is this accurate? Have you had any experience with a braking bias valve, if so what are your opinions?
Pardon my French but fúck the percentages! :lol: I previously used to read about the percentages and its more misleading than the figures make out!
Due to the 4WD transmission and there is more rear braking required/used than many people realise!
Ok the percentages might be right, but after burning a rear set of uprated pads on track, this (for me) is conclusive evidence that rear brakes are more important than previously talked about.

Again its all about environment and how you drive, perhaps around town its not going to make a real improvement, but on track when the pads are failing at the rears, some uprated pads will make the car feel more positive when braking/driving and certainly gave me more confidence when hard braking.

I've got no experience with actual brake biases but in simple terms if you uprate your brakes whether is the pad coefficient, bigger disc's, bigger pistons you have increased the front bias so it could be more like 90% 10% (but like I said before I’m not fussed about the figures) However if you also change the rears for better pad coefficient, bigger disc's or bigger pistons this will help counteract the front bias restoring it to similar settings and also giving you better braking for the track/road.

"Perfect brake bias is obtained when the front-to-rear balance of the brake system exactly matches the front-to-rear weight balance of the vehicle"

I've not got that, but its a lot better than is was/is and perhaps in the near future some rear 300mm discs might be on by purchase list.

…but for now I’ll keep on testing/trying out different compounds and set-ups.
;-)
 

GTi-R23

New Member
Cool, thanks, Mintex 1144's are next on my shopping list then, might even swap them for the DS2500's which only have a few thousand miles on them as I'm that underwhelmed by them.
I do think the rear brakes on an R do do more work than on a FWD hatch as you have the extra weight of the rear diff and stuff sitting directly on the back wheels.
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
I'm using DS2500's in my 330mm AP 4 pots and like you say when they're cold they dont really do a lot. I havent really done enough miles on them yet to say too much about them (only about 30 miles since i bedded them in) but they do need a bit of heat in them to work properly ;-)

Dont know what they're like as far as fading goes yet, ive had the discs red hot with the pads smoking and they were still stopping well but could do getting a few laps in at Castle Combe to give them a proper test 8)
 
I

irishjohn

Guest
ebc yellow stuff pads are good...i have them on my r. my brakes are prety stock though but since fitting the ebc's the brakes are much more progressive and are good from cold...just my 2 cents worth.
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
irishjohn said:
ebc yellow stuff pads are good...i have them on my r. my brakes are prety stock though but since fitting the ebc's the brakes are much more progressive and are good from cold...just my 2 cents worth.
You've not been on track with Yellow Stuff pads have you? :lol:
 

GTiRlover

New Member
fubar andy- very good reply! Having uprated the front of my car's braking system I hadn't taken into account the front 'percentage' increase as you mention. Thats a good point well made.

I was only wondering about the brake bias valve because I have read mixed report about them. At the end of the day my car stops very well but uprating the rear pads has given me something to think about!

fubar andy said:
Pardon my French but fúck the percentages! :lol: I previously used to read about the percentages and its more misleading than the figures make out!
Due to the 4WD transmission and there is more rear braking required/used than many people realise!
Ok the percentages might be right, but after burning a rear set of uprated pads on track, this (for me) is conclusive evidence that rear brakes are more important than previously talked about.

Again its all about environment and how you drive, perhaps around town its not going to make a real improvement, but on track when the pads are failing at the rears, some uprated pads will make the car feel more positive when braking/driving and certainly gave me more confidence when hard braking.

I've got no experience with actual brake biases but in simple terms if you uprate your brakes whether is the pad coefficient, bigger disc's, bigger pistons you have increased the front bias so it could be more like 90% 10% (but like I said before I’m not fussed about the figures) However if you also change the rears for better pad coefficient, bigger disc's or bigger pistons this will help counteract the front bias restoring it to similar settings and also giving you better braking for the track/road.

"Perfect brake bias is obtained when the front-to-rear balance of the brake system exactly matches the front-to-rear weight balance of the vehicle"

I've not got that, but its a lot better than is was/is and perhaps in the near future some rear 300mm discs might be on by purchase list.

…but for now I’ll keep on testing/trying out different compounds and set-ups.
;-)
 
I

irishjohn

Guest
fubar andy said:
You've not been on track with Yellow Stuff pads have you? :lol:
no but i have a track day next sunday...am i in for a nasty surprise?
 

Trondelond

Active Member
irishjohn said:
no but i have a track day next sunday...am i in for a nasty surprise?
I've been on track with ebc yellowstuff pads, it's what I'm running now. Unfortunately, I really don't have much to compare with, but at least I got the "most melted caliper paint"-award on that trackday. :doh:
After about four laps, they gave up on me.
 
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