Still waiting on some shims!
Running-In Engine Oils
- Millers 10w/40 Running-In Oil
Road/Track Engine Oil
- Fuchs Pro S 10w/50
- Millers 10w/60
- Castrol EDGE 10w/60
Gear & Transmission Oil
- Fuchs Silktran SYN 5 Gear Oil - Motorsport
- Fuchs Pro SRG 75 Gear Oil - Fast Road
- Fuchs Gear 75w/90 Gear Oil - Road
Cold Weather Oil Choice
In this cold weather, it is beneficial to use an oil that has good cold start flow properties as it will get to the parts of the engine that need it far more quickly.
The "w" number which means winter is the key here and the lower the better.
It may seem odd but a 15w or 20w will struggle to get around the engine in very cold temps and I would strongly recommend a 10w or better still a 5w for better cold start performance.
90% of all engine wear occurs on cold start because the oil get thicker the colder it is which causes engine wear.
These numbers explain what I mean and bear in mind that the oil will be the following thickness at 100degC (sae 40 = 14cst, sae 50 = 18cst and sae 60 = 24cst)
At 0degC these are the numbers (thick!)
Grade.................At 0C.........At 10C...........At 100C
If you are using anything more than a 10w oil, always warm the car properly before driving it as the oil needs time to circulate.
Just a word of warning really.
Oil for Modified GTiR
If you are "modding" your car and adding BHP or using it on track then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires.
A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new.
Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this!
To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres.
However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min.
That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem:
Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil.
More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant.
Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating.
A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss.
Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations.
A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century.
Courtesy of Simon and Guy aka Oilman
Engine oil 3.7L with oil filter
Rear Diff 1L
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