wheels leave the ground frequently anyone experience this??

[Anonymous]

hey all,
just wondering does anyone else with there lowered r find that on certain corners your rear wheel lifts off the ground depending on the corner and somtimes the front depending on how the road is.

Have noticed since getting the teins fitted this is happenning, just gets a little unnerving and anoyying when your trying to power through a corner.
have lowered it so its 300mm from centre hub to middle arch front and rear, on 17's..

Could anyone explain why this occurs - I thought better sus was ment to keep the wheels in contact with the road as much as possible.
(also notice that reversing at an angle out of a drivway the rear wheel can lift as high as 7" off the ground.....)
Must say wholy shit its like its on rails with teins and whiteline gear......

MODERATERS>this is not a problem question so i presume that it belongs here in the general section.
Thanks Luke.

 

[Anonymous]

all stiff/lowered cars do this ..

don't take such sharp lines ??

 

[andygtir]

even on standard suspension the R can 'cock' a wheel in sharp bends.

 

[Nad]

Maybe the shock travel is too short for use on the roads ur driving on. Teins are track shocks, no good for country roads. Also if the dampening is to hard they wont react fast enough to track the road. U will find the same when u jack ur car up, the wheels dont drop out of the arches much. Maybe u have chosen the wrong shock.

U could wind the dampening all the way off but I have heard even this can be too slow still. Changing the spring rates may help to softer ones?

L8r

Nad

 

[Davey]

i was wondering if i had my gabs set too hard, i get a bit of wheelspin when pulling out of t junctions and the like
any1 else got gabs, what have you got them set at, mine are set to max hardness front and back, was thinking of setting it to 2(middle) on the front
:?:

 

[Anonymous]

Once again stiff suspension rears its ugly head, I have a friend (no its true) who races a Gtir and he swears by the original suspension, the whole point of 4wd is to keep the wheels on the ground, our roads in the UK are just to s**t to cope with Jap suspension at its best

 

[Davey]

this backs up what i was told at middlehurst,that you shouldnt go to hard with 4wd suspension, or to low, cos the suspension cant do its job properly

 

[Anonymous]

wasnt complaining about the suspension itself was just curious as to what caused it, thanks for the info,does make a lot of sence though, that if u have shitty roads then dont go to firm, lucky that the main lot of mountains that i will be racing the car around are nice and smooth..
(but then at the end of the day theres always going to be a compramise.
go to soft and you arnt going to be able to take smooth roads ie S BENDS as fast as a hard setup, cause of more bodyroll.
>go to firm and on the slightly rough too smooth roads your going to be on rails and go faster then an r with softer sus, but hit some real rough roads and the other will leave you behind.
(HAS ANYONE TESTED AN R SETUP WITH THE FULL WHITELINE ROAD WORKS KIT AGAINST AN R SETUP WITH TEINS OR EQUIVILANT COILOVERS WITH WHITELINE HANDLING KIT,on normal roads to see which stayed in front and handled better..???

had some slight drifting action happen today when i took an unbalanced S BEND at one and a half times the recommended speed,,was a hell of a lota fun......but i dont think ill try that one again..
Thanks. luke....

 

[Nad]

On most cheap kits people use the dampening to adjust the hardness. Dont forget on a proper kit it should be used to adjust the speed at which the suspension works by controlling the spring. The spring should normally denote the stiffness of the suspension. On cheap kits the spring is normally a compromise and the dampening used to stiffen it up. Remember better to have to soft a spring and slow it down with the dampening to make it feel harder than a too hard a spring which u cant soften.

Nad

 

[Davey]

What is the adjustment on gab shocks?
Is it compression, or rebound, or some sort of compromise of both?
Im guessing it's compression, but would be nice to know for sure?

 

[Anonymous]

What you are likely to be experiencing is known as unpsrung weight. Basically the heavier your wheels, brakes and suspension are, the more momentum it will gather with every bump in the road. Combine that with a suspension set up that is hard and not meant to "soak" up bumps then you are begging for this to happen. This is why i changed to the lightest wheels money could buy. If you want to stop this happening, assuming everything else is fine you have to remove those heavy arsed 17 inch wheels. I presume they are the heavy part because your sus and brakes arent likely to be heavy enough to cause it.

Hard suspension always feels bouncy because its designed that way because it is intended, especially coilovers, to be used on the track where you will find the smoothest surface. Try your car on the track and you should find that your car will be a dream.

As for the whiteline full road kit versus coilovers, simply put, coilovers should win on the track and the road kit should win on the road.

 

[Jon Olds]

Interesting thread on 'hard' suspension.
My tarmac rally car is way too hard, I think. I'm booked on a rally in 6 weeks and am going to soften the spring rate by a lot.
It is a sinbgle venue event on a race circuit.
Just as an experiment.
It will be cold, so I'm hoping the soft spring rate(s) will help the tyres warm up better.
Also, as it is now, its a pig to drive on ice/snow, virtually unsteerable under boost. ie rear steer...
Likewise, I lose drive when it spins the inside rear wheel, even in summer on smooth race tracks on slicks, so I think its too hard.
But the big question is how soft????????????????????????????
And what front to rear spring ratio????????????????????????????????
Anybody been there with this? Its on 2.5" adj platform struts, and bilstein monotube dampers

 

[fubar andy]

What spring rated do you use?

 

[Fast Guy]

Wow!! A new record on old thread revivals.....8 years.

Would better diffs help you not loose traction so much when one wheel spins?

 

[Jon Olds]

Taking them off this w/e, as I can't quite remember. Will advise. Used the old thread by digging thro using the search engine, and this one seemed closest fit. Think it may have 400lbin on the front

 

[Jon Olds]

Also, have a shedload of cash in the car at the moment, so another 1 or 2K is a no-no , acknowledging that may the proper fix...

 

[Jon Olds]

425lbin front and 300 rear. I'm thinking of putting the 300's on the front and some 200's on the back. Any comments?

 

[MarkTurbo]

Going softer may not be the answer, the suspension on my sprint/hillclimb car is fairly soft (koni adjustable dampers with whiteline springs) and this happens fairly regularly.

 

[Trip]

I am running on 448 front and 392 rear and my car is almost 1000kg (dry). I also get a rear wheel in air. The anti roll bar stiffness plays a big roll in this.

Like mark said, the softer you go, the more body roll you will have making the rear wheel go airborne.

 

[Jon Olds]

I understand where you are coming from. On 50-70mph corners on track I am getting spin on the rear, but its not lifting that high. Mine has whiteline AR bars also. Has anybody tried limiting the rear droop on the inside to up the effective outside wheel rate. This (i'm told) works on FWD.
I'm still going softer on the spring rate. The suspension (ha!) hammers the living daylights out of your kidneys when you get off the black stuff.
Its got to be easier to drive, hasnt it? Especially on cold tyres.
Also, the off the shelf dampers clubmen like me use must be closer matched to sensible spring rates.
300lb fronts and 200 rears should make the wheels travel which should balance the static corner weights a bit. (if I understand it)
Another thing. Whats a 400lb rate doing to the bodyshell?