Setting up the handling

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
what about the camber degree mine is neg 1 degree as in the whiteline instructiopns, but it eats tyres would 0 degrees still give good handling without changing boots every six months
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Started adding smoe camber information but this is quite a big topic area.

To answer GtirLoz' question quickly:

-1Deg of camber is quite "normal" for a performance car and up to 1.5deg you shouldn't have any great problem in tyre wear. This all depends on the driver but -1deg is conservative. If you are killing tyres, it will be your tracking (toe) is wrong as 0.5deg on the toe can take 6 months off the tyre!!

Get this checked first.
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Updated again. All very detailed and maybe too detailed for many.

I've added more suspension settings info from Tein, Nissan and whiteleine.

I've added a rough write up on Toe, camber, bumpsteer and made a few minor edits to ARB.

I think I'll do a simpler post for a staged upgrade path.

Cheers,
Jim
 

akchang

New Member
what about spring rates? i am looking into new coilovers and would like to know what some good rates for the R would be.

thanks

and great write up! a wealth of knowlege.
 
Have you played around with any settings recently?
I'm not happy with the understeer i'm gettin still on track.
The rear end is stuck to the tarmac and the car is v predictable/safe but I don't feel like its anywhere near as good as I'd like, but that might just be me being unrealisteic.

Fronts are set to -2 degrees camber and 1mm toe in.
Rears are are set to -1 degree camber and 1mm toe in.

Have you played with a bit of toe out?

Also, with my rear arb;
i've got the g force coilovers that come with an adjustable drop link, which enable the rotation of the arb, but how will this affect the handling? as it doesn't appear to stiffen or loosen it in any way?

Thanx, Ben
 
D

danmo

Guest
Hi, just wanting to know what is needed for a bumsteer kit and where to get the kit from? Also how much is it likely to cost?
Cheers.
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42197

In the FAQ ;-)

Please remember this was written over 3 years ago. I've learnt a lot more since but most of it is too boring for the average reader. Also remember for every good setup I've had there have been many rubbish ones. Finally, what works for me on my roads and tracks may not work for you. Having said all that, probably 80% of what I wrote I would still agree with today.
 
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vizi0n

New Member
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:( :(

I've found another post from you somewhere, and adjusted my BC Racing (same as Apex) coilovers to 335/350. I have yet to drive the car but it feels more like a regular setup compared to my Tein HA (height-wise)
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Sorry, I keep promising to sort out all the FAQ's etc as part of my new modding duites?

The higher the setup, the more anti roll you get. The more anti roll you get (like an ARB) the more that end slips. If you find the rear too sharp on corner entry then drop the rear 5mm. I would keep the difference between 5-15mm and if you need more then look to other parts of your suspension. The lower the car overall, the slower the weight transfer, the highter the car the faster the weight transfer. For our cars, slow weight transfer causes more understeer in low grip situations (Wet roads) but fast weight transfer causes more instability in high grip situations (Dry tarmac). I've trid a few differnt spring rates and a 335mm front drop suits me best for a poor weather and roads in the UK. My rear setup is a function of Springs, rear ARB, front castor(!) and corner entry speed. A 40mph corner benefits from a higher rear than an 80mph corner that feels unstable.
 
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