Ported manifold.
- Thread starter Swampy
- Start date
O
Odin
Guest
I think a well ported standard manifold fitted with the multi layer steel gasket would see some gains, The standard gasket is rubbish because it blocks quite a lot of the port.
Rob
Rob
O
Odin
Guest
O
Odin
Guest
Yes I did mine but it's not a very good solution in my opinion, Because their is a good chance that it will leak after you butcher it, Mine kept blowing but I had no such problems after fitting the metal gasket, It fits perfectly and seals properly as well, So why would you want to just butcher the standard rubbish gasket :roll: :der: , You must be some kind of skin flint if you can't afford £21 to do the job properly :roll: .youngsyp said:Could you modify the standard gasket to fit better ? If you could, there wouldn't be any specific advantage in using the multi layer metal item, would there ? Apart from it probably being cheaper than the OE gasket !
Rob
As with anything on this car !!Odin said:
I was gonna have a go at porting a spare manifold, any suggestions of what I should be looking to do ?
Obviously, taking away any casting marks, lips, edges and matching the manifold ports to the head and turbo but, anything else ? (This is a general question to anyone as, I know Rob doesn't like getting his hands dirty !!
)
O
Odin
Guest
youngsyp said:I know Rob doesn't like getting his hands dirty !!
I ported my standard manifold myself ;-) , I don't mind getting my hands dirty on my own car :lol: .
I just took as much out of it as I could get away with, I also matched the ports and smoothed it off as much as pos, Don't forget to ware goggles though as you might end up at the doctors having a bit of metal drilled out of your eye ball like me
:doh: .Rob
turbodaily
New Member
did this on my evo 3 and can say didnt notice any difference,maybe turbo spooled up abit quicker.. noticed more difference changing the manifold all together and getting a tubular.
That's what I'd expect to happen and why I'd port the manifold !turbodaily said:
I just did a bit of reading and apparently, you should make the manifold ports a larger diameter than the head ports, this reduces reverse flow and helps with idle. You should also take more material off the top of the ports as, this is where the most gas flows across. Also, mirror finishing the ports isn't necessary but, will help reduce heat transfer. After reading it, it makes sense !
Another idea is to space the manifold out from the head by 1/2" or so as, this generally increases the volume of gas the manifold can take and, lengthens the distance between when the gas leaves the head and when it is slowed down by hitting the manifold curves thus, helping to keep gas speed up.
This sounds like a nice idea but, I guess it would mean fiddling about with the exhaust, oil and water lines ?!
I'm gonna heat wrap the manifold too, that should help reduce spool up a little more !
O
Odin
Guest
Yes I agree mate, I also felt much more improvement after fitting a new stainless manifold, But the ported standard one did spool the turbo a bit sooner which can only be a good thing.turbodaily said:
Plus it gives the owner something to do on his/her car that he doesn't need to get ar5ed raped by a tuner for :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .
Rob
turbodaily
New Member
true, the only thing is it can take a while to port the standard manifold, making you wish you just went and bought a tubular lol
i saw quite good gains after doing mine8) where it meets the head are some great big bulges which drastically reduce the opening:? i got rid of these and then followed that width into the manifold as much as i dared after i had finished there was a noticeably bigger internal area and no casting marks etc.
seems to have worked because after they mapped it they expected to see a tubular manifold when they looked under the bonnet and were suprised to see a standard cast jobbie:shock:
i also ported my elbow but there isnt a great deal of material you can take out
seems to have worked because after they mapped it they expected to see a tubular manifold when they looked under the bonnet and were suprised to see a standard cast jobbie:shock:
i also ported my elbow but there isnt a great deal of material you can take out
O
Odin
Guest
youngsyp said:
I used my dremel and grinding bits ;-) , I also used the sand paper rolls to finish the job off, It can get quite costly though as you will go through loads of the buggers :doh:
.The best tool for the job would be an air grinder ;-) .
Rob
ive got an air die grinder designed for that very thing, i also used some expensive
deburring tools with long shafts;-)
even with the aggressive burring tool it takes a few hours to open the manifold out as much as i did and then smooth it ,
i used a david vizard book as reference to the principles of porting and exhaust flow and i had a spare manifold incase i took it too far:?
if you dont port it too the max its hardly worth doing
deburring tools with long shafts;-)
even with the aggressive burring tool it takes a few hours to open the manifold out as much as i did and then smooth it ,
i used a david vizard book as reference to the principles of porting and exhaust flow and i had a spare manifold incase i took it too far:?
if you dont port it too the max its hardly worth doing
D
deslynam
Guest
You can get the effect of spacing the manifold further away from the cyl. head by using one of those PTFE gaskets which are often sold under the banner of reducing heat-transfer to the [inlet] manifold. They're usually quite a bit thicker than OE ones.
This can help with fuel atomisation in the airflow as well...
This can help with fuel atomisation in the airflow as well...