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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
nope nothing at all.
GTIR-LOZ
New Member
as before check the spark side of things, you can just remove a plug connect the lead to the plug and rest it on the metal of the engine and crank it over, it should spark very bright, if not or very weak check the ignition amp or coil etc, i have a good as new ignition amplifier if you need it and brand new dizzy cap abd rotor arm all for sale
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
it's sparking but... could it be a simple case of the Battery being totally dead- i.e less then 12v? could it turn the engine over but not suppy sufficient power to generate a big enough spark?
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
then i'm lost. Theres fuel and a spark yet it's not igniting. If thre angle sensor is out, could it be sparking at the wrong time?
Have you been watching American Hotrod? That was the problem they had; an ignition system that wouldn't fire unless it saw 12v. So although they had enough to turn the starter it wouldn't start... different in your case though; you've got a distributor.
This may sound mental, but have you tried just cranking and cranking? Maybe hook it up to a second battery or car and just keep the starter turning longer than seems sensible. - That's what I had to do last time I ran the battery flat and then flooded it trying to start it again.
Every now and then it would catch, fire... then die again. Eventually it took, and off I went.
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
the spark is bright, dissy is in the middle and tight. I also managed to get a jump to see if it was the battery and it still didn't fire. As said, the coil is only a few months old. The plugs are 8 months old, but the spark seems bright and i naturally tested them on their corresponding lead to make sure that wasn't the issue. I purged, tried to start on the battery, then repeated.
Still code 11...
Anyone local got a dissy i can try..?
Still code 11...
Anyone local got a dissy i can try..?
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
on jump, very. On battery quick but slows as the battery is drained. Whilst there is juice in it, its obviously dying.
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
yup.
At the moment, I'm tempted to just give it to the garage. Only problem is i can't get it there if it wont ruddy start and as it stands i can't see why it wont start...
At the moment, I'm tempted to just give it to the garage. Only problem is i can't get it there if it wont ruddy start and as it stands i can't see why it wont start...
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pulsarboby
Guest
check that the grub screw hasnt come loose or fallen out of the rotor arm.
it will still spark but not at the correct time if thats the case, and your plugs will be soaked as its not firing when it should be!
it will still spark but not at the correct time if thats the case, and your plugs will be soaked as its not firing when it should be!
stumo
Active Member
Yup, try what Bobby said.
after that, you could just have too much fuel in the cylinders, remove the inj resistor and the plugs.....turn over the engine for a while to dry it out.
refit the injector resistor, get the plugs and heat them up, then put them in quickly and try to start it
after that, you could just have too much fuel in the cylinders, remove the inj resistor and the plugs.....turn over the engine for a while to dry it out.
refit the injector resistor, get the plugs and heat them up, then put them in quickly and try to start it
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
Ok, gonig to try tomorrow seeing as i have the day off. Thanks again everyone!
I'll let you all know how it pans out...
EDIT: so am i to assume that the code 11 is not what is causing the problem?
I'll let you all know how it pans out...
EDIT: so am i to assume that the code 11 is not what is causing the problem?
red reading
Active Member
Try easy start fluid as well
A few ideas.
The bolt in your dizzy can loosen and the disc is not held firm. I've seen posts in the past of other owners having problems like this on the CAS.
When I first rebuilt my car, my mate caused a problem on the ECU earths on the inlet manifold. This gave similar problems. An auto electrician spotted it and re-made those earths. Worked immediately.
Jim
The bolt in your dizzy can loosen and the disc is not held firm. I've seen posts in the past of other owners having problems like this on the CAS.
When I first rebuilt my car, my mate caused a problem on the ECU earths on the inlet manifold. This gave similar problems. An auto electrician spotted it and re-made those earths. Worked immediately.
Jim
antgtir
New Member
If you have access to a known working CAS, i would try that just to eliminate it from the investigation, its worth a punt.
Id also look at the earths as Jim has suggested, i know my battery earth played silly buggers one day and after a bit of cleaning and re-connection the car started fine, may just be as simple as that.
Ensure that the car battery is at its most full capacity as 0.5v drop on this could be significant at the spark end of the system imo.
You havent had any strange rattling noises from the engine have you? The reason i ask is that a colleague of mine who owns a BMW 1 Series has just had a problem were the chain guide had worn badly and caused the chain to jump and so the ECU didnt know where it was so just stopped the engine from starting, this however wouldnt explain why you are still getting fuel and spark to the chamber? hmmm?
Ant.
Id also look at the earths as Jim has suggested, i know my battery earth played silly buggers one day and after a bit of cleaning and re-connection the car started fine, may just be as simple as that.
Ensure that the car battery is at its most full capacity as 0.5v drop on this could be significant at the spark end of the system imo.
You havent had any strange rattling noises from the engine have you? The reason i ask is that a colleague of mine who owns a BMW 1 Series has just had a problem were the chain guide had worn badly and caused the chain to jump and so the ECU didnt know where it was so just stopped the engine from starting, this however wouldnt explain why you are still getting fuel and spark to the chamber? hmmm?
Ant.
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mynheers_a_pint
Guest
there hasn't been any rattling and all the guides and so forth are new.
The bolt on the rotor was tight however, i have noticed that the dissy and rotor are quite furry. However, i can't see this being an instantaneous issue such as this. The spark seemed bright but perhaps I simply haven't seen enough strong sparks to define a poor spark. eitherway, i think i'll replace them anyway- thinking about it, the dissy and rotor are new to me, but that was possibly 18-24 months ago.
Is there any signs i should look for or any way to test for a dodgy earth?
The bolt on the rotor was tight however, i have noticed that the dissy and rotor are quite furry. However, i can't see this being an instantaneous issue such as this. The spark seemed bright but perhaps I simply haven't seen enough strong sparks to define a poor spark. eitherway, i think i'll replace them anyway- thinking about it, the dissy and rotor are new to me, but that was possibly 18-24 months ago.
Is there any signs i should look for or any way to test for a dodgy earth?