Lacking power, got milk?? possible crank pulley problem

[Anonymous]

I have boost, i have ported head work, i have tomei pistons, yes i have 10 deg of timing on idle. where it is ment to be at 20deg right?? everything is right everything is lined up to how its ment to be...

i have been told that its possible my crank pulley could be wrong as somewhere in its construction is rubber and it can slip out ir flex or whatever..

i also have been told i may be running a bit lean..

tho i guess the problem above could be causing this.. but also as i am flowing more air into the head the standard computer isnt up for it.

any ideas? etc.

thanks

Andrew

 

[Fast Guy]

Best way to check the pulley I guess would be to pull no1 plug out and rotate the engine until it's at top dead centre and see if the pointer if lining up with the tdc mark on the pulley.

Ignition timing should be 20degs on good fuel.

You'll probably need your fuelling sorting out before you can advance the timing, or you'll end up detting.

What boost are you running?

 

[Anonymous]

hey there.. i might do that tommorrow. as i'm a bit tired now.

but i only have stock boost running at the moment. did have it up to 14psi at one stage tho. but backed it right off when i noticed i had this problem..

my engine builder keeps telling me its in time.. which i beleive him as i think the pulley is tristed or something.

i'll get back to you.. going to have to the head apart if thats the case.. looking forward to that.

 

[Anonymous]

Best way to check the pulley I guess would be to pull no1 plug out and rotate the engine until it's at top dead centre and see if the pointer if lining up with the tdc mark on the pulley.

Ignition timing should be 20degs on good fuel.

hello again.. what would be the best way to check tdc with our engine?

i've been told use a screw driver. but when i think about it would have to be a pretty long screw driver and rather thin at the handle end also..

which is the tdc mark on the pulley? would that be the first mark on the pulley? there is also a mark which is white where my engine builder has done. but i figure thats what he claims to be 20deg....

thanks again.


Andrew

 

[jiw]

the tool to use is in your engine bay, Your dip stick will be long enough

 

[Anonymous]

ok checked all that,. and is all correct. so that isnt the problem..

But.. i've just remembered when i had engine rebuilt we didnt put the knock sensor back on as i am going to be putting in apower fc very soon.

we have soldered a 530 (or there abouts) k resistor onto the wire comming out of the computer and earthed it as creating resistance to trick the computer to make it think it had the knock sensor and its working fine..

then tonite i disconnect my battrey for 2-3 hours. let the computer reset itself. and after i put it all back together it just jumps straight back into a knock sensor problem displayed on the blitz computer rvi-t or something like that consult thing..

eeek..

whats going on?

have we got the resistance right for the knock sensor??

 

[Fast Guy]

According to the manual, you need to test the det sensor with an ohmmeter that can read more that 10Mohms, so I guess your resistor maynot be resisting enough.

 

[Anonymous]

ok i have put det sensor back on. tired to plug in power fc. fuck that.

might go out tonite and smash the fuck out of my car with a nice sledge hammer. peice of fucking shit is so annoying