Help with gearbox

M

Molz

Member
Ok so i have official done one to many launches and PPG box now sounds like a box of smarties! The car is also stuck in gear (1st I think) and a bitch to move around, any ideas how to get it into neutral just so i can move it around. Also I have seen the write ups on removing the gearbox without dropping the motor, is this still recommended or is it just better dropping the motor?

I have a spare box while I get the PPG repaired. I haven't removed the gearbox before, usually get my tuner to do it, but as the car is now not mobile I thought I'd give it a go

other than the seal I need to carefully of, does anyone have any other tricks or advise I should know about.
 
M

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Why risk moving it and doing anymore damage?

The simple explanation of removing the box with the engine in is to take the end casing off the transferbox, remove the front diff, then remove all the engine mounts apart from the upper one on the oil pump end of the engine. Then if you lower the gearbox end of the engine down you should have enough room to get the box off.
 
johnsy

johnsy

Active Member
I personnaly think its easier to just drop the lump!, unless you have left the arkward bolts in the transfer/gerabox your asking for bother,i fooked on trying this and in the time i had waisted messing about i could of dropped the lump split the box and been well on refitting it, just my 2pc

sounds expensive though,ppg rebuild
 
M

Molz

Member
I assumed dropping the motor would be the best solution, but would have liked to hear differently

No idea yet what the actual damage is, but i know my wallet has already started quivering
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
i find it easier to drp the lot personally, may take a bit longer but less chance of damage being caused where people leave the gearbox hanging on the input shaft spline (if the box doesnt go home first time) which can damage clutch driveplate as well as input shaft
 
P

pulsar_stu

Active Member
MarkTurbo said:
Why risk moving it and doing anymore damage?

The simple explanation of removing the box with the engine in is to take the end casing off the transferbox, remove the front diff, then remove all the engine mounts apart from the upper one on the oil pump end of the engine. Then if you lower the gearbox end of the engine down you should have enough room to get the box off.
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This is the way i did it, took about 2 hours to drop the gearbox the first time.

as bob said tho, it can be a bitch to realign it when you put it back on! one time it took me 10 hours to line the splines up :(

Still easier to do than dropping the whole engine out if you only have a trolley jack and axle stands!
 
J

j0ff

Member
pulsarboby said:
i find it easier to drp the lot personally, may take a bit longer but less chance of damage being caused where people leave the gearbox hanging on the input shaft spline (if the box doesnt go home first time) which can damage clutch driveplate as well as input shaft
Click to expand...
Is it easier to drop out the bottom or lift from above? I've got a ramp and hoist so either works for me, just wondered what you do?
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Last time I dropped from the bottom (and lifted the car off); mainly because Geoff had a trolley that we could just drop the engine onto then trundle out.

Didn't Channy had a lot of problems with his PPG gearset too?
 
G

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
j0ff said:
Is it easier to drop out the bottom or lift from above? I've got a ramp and hoist so either works for me, just wondered what you do?
Click to expand...
The luxury of a ramp and hoist must make it so much easier:doh: unless you try to take it out of the top:lol:
 
M

Molz

Member
With the gearbox now being jammed what's the best way to get the car mobile, I have to be able to push the car around, can't get it into neutral, should I disconnect the front cv's?

This is sounding more like a job for my tuner!
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
PobodY said:
Last time I dropped from the bottom (and lifted the car off); mainly because Geoff had a trolley that we could just drop the engine onto then trundle out.

Didn't Channy had a lot of problems with his PPG gearset too?
Click to expand...
It was a PAR not PPG, And that is the gearset in my car i bought it of him and spent 10mins sorting out the issue from it not being set up correctley.

Ppg are normally pretty good, if molz was using the standard helical final drive it would be that is the problem, i have seen a few fail now from old age and wear.
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
take the 4 bolts out of the prop shaft at the diff end, and pull the front driveshaft/cv (or shafts if you have a lsd front diff)
 
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