Engine over fuelling ''AGAIN'' !!!!!

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RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Hi guys / gals.

I know that I made another thread with this problem of mine.

But.............here we go again.

After the last problem with the over fuelling I took out my 760 cc injectors, Z32 MAF and the Nistune ECU and put back the 444 cc stock injectors, standard MAF and also one stock ECU.
The car started but the spark plugs were turning black and also the exhaust fumes smelled like fuel.

After a couple of weeks I had the problem with the rear brakes sticking and I took out the ABS unit and re-piped the brakes.
To do that I took out only the ''top hat'' of the intake manifold to clear some space.
Basically I solved the problem with the brakes ( I Don’t know because I didn't had time to bleed them properly).
After that I wanted to bleed the brakes, so I just put back the battery.....when I realized that, for about 10 seconds, I put the + on - and vice versa on the battery.
Realized how stupid I was .....in 10 sec time.....and put it all back like it was suppose to be, checked the relays and fuses boxes and all seemed to be in order.
Then put the key in the contact and the car started properly, let it run for about 10 minutes then I stopped it and went home.

Now after 1 week the engine doesn't want to start and it fills the spark plugs in fuel really bad.

Please note that there is 1 or 2 C deg in the workshop where I keep the car.
Also note that I have been checking every vacuum hose and every pipe that can have a leak and I don't have the standard narrow band, I just have the bosch wide band sensor with Innovate LC1 controller wired directly into the ECU, without an emulator.

Please help because I am really desperate.......and I am the only one in country with an GTIR....so nobody can come and take a look.

Cheers,

Bogdan
 
johnny gtir

johnny gtir

Well-Known Member
this will not help tell u what is causing it mine done it abit in the cold but it is a good tip if it happens to save taking plugs out all the time and it dose work read the thread about setting your tps in how to guides. most cars if they flood u back off accelerator but the pulsar turn key off put ur accel pedal to the floor turn the key, keep it turned it goes into clear flood mode as it tries to start back off accel it should start. this is if it floods if you have many faults ie air flow meter dodgy spark plugs etc it will not work. have you cleaned your airflow meter it seemed to help mine and new plugs.
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
youve probably fried the ecu injector circuit by putting battery on wrong way round, you may have also fried other circuits in relevant sensors.
even by briefly flashing the battery terminals in reverse polarity you can cause a lot of damage.
i would start by fitting a replacement ecu and go from there
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Ok guys....thanks again for the usefull tips.
Yesterday I had a small chat with Trip on the messenger and he told me to dosomething like this: put the maf as close as posible to the throttle.
I did it and the car started at -10 degrees almost instantly without any probs.
It seems that I am one lucky bastard and nothing it's fried.
Note:
My battery it's not the usual GTIR battery it's an 40 amp battery and maybe this is the reason why nothing it's fried.

The one and only remaining problem I think it it the narrow band which is missing and the ecu doesn't read O2 signal and therefore the ecu has an O2 error and it overfuells.

This is my thinking at the moment.

What you think guys???

Cheers,

Bogdan
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
RO_SUNNY said:
Ok guys....thanks again for the usefull tips.
Yesterday I had a small chat with Trip on the messenger and he told me to dosomething like this: put the maf as close as posible to the throttle.
I did it and the car started at -10 degrees almost instantly without any probs.
It seems that I am one lucky bastard and nothing it's fried.
Note:
My battery it's not the usual GTIR battery it's an 40 amp battery and maybe this is the reason why nothing it's fried.

The one and only remaining problem I think it it the narrow band which is missing and the ecu doesn't read O2 signal and therefore the ecu has an O2 error and it overfuells.

This is my thinking at the moment.

What you think guys???

Cheers,

Bogdan
Click to expand...
Great to hear its working...better.

Its irrelevant what size and power output the battery is, You were simply lucky you did not fry any electronic parts.

With my suggestion, you placed the MAF direct on the inlet plenum (clicky), bypassing the turbo and intercooler. If its working better like this it means you have an air leak in the system.

The narrowband 02 sensor output is between 0v and 1v and thats what the ECU wants to see. The Wideband output is between 0v and 5v.

Not all narrowband sensors will work with every car so you would need a specific one for the Pulsar.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
OK.

Now I am coming back to this problem again and again.

Yesterday I satrted the car again but with standard copper cored spark plugs.

It started Ok, it's managing to keep the idle almost steady (between 920 and 960 RPM) but when I am revving it on no load it's struggling a bit to rev.

I took out the plugs and they were black, I gave them a quick clean with a piece of cloth and put them back together then rev it again and still it struggled to rev.

Could it be a fuel pump damage as my fuel pump rellay was dead and I changed it......could it be some dead sensor because some monmths ago I reversed the polarity of the battery???

Please tell me what to do because I had enough with this pile of s&^%t.
 
ollydj

ollydj

Member
Have you checked your fuel pressure?
Have you had your injectors tested?
Have you done a fault code check?

If all these are ok it must be your ecu telling the injectors to stay open for longer and dumping excessive amounts of fuel.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
How to check the fuel pressure?
Injectors not tested but working great on another car!
Fault code done.....55 code

I also replaced the ecu with a stock unit....I have 2 ecu's.....a stock one and one with a Nistune daughter board on it.
 
J

jambo_gtir

Member
I doubt very much you'd damage the ECU by reversing the contacts on the battery. Every circuit has a very basic form of reverse voltage protection......a diode. lol. Bit of a late reply but just so you don't go wasting your money buying replacement ECU's...
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
You check fuel pressure by fitting a gauge-can buy them off ebay for about £15 and you will need an inline adapter to fit them into the fuel line(mine is on a sard fpr after the fuel rail).Fuel pressure should be around 3 bar with the vacuum pipe pulled off.
I had similar overfuelling problems to you and it was down to 2 injectors being gummed up.I'd had all 4 cleaned only a few hundred miles earlier but as the car was stood for a long time they clogged up.Had them sonicly cleaned at an ASNU dealer for around £35 and they were fine after that.
 
R

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Hi fellas.

Thank for thye replys.....I will try and test the pressure and then clean the injectors.....if that doesn't work I will come back to thi sthread with the questions:p:p:p
 
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rudaluda

New Member
Having problem with the injectors again and the cleaning is going to be my first time so thanks for the help, skiddusmarkus. I think the last time I had it cleaned when I bought my Used Engines For Sale, it was not done properly otherwise it shouldn't clog up so early.
 
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