Clutch Master Cylinder Guide?

[bean]

Sorry to post this in general but I desperately need a guide on how to overhaul the Clutch Master Cylinder.

I've searched this forum and google but can't find anything conclusive.

Help!

 

[Curtis]

Have you checked on the Yahoogroups as I did the first "howto" on there?
I'll have a look in a bit and try to dig it out for you.

 

[bean]

I checked the Yahoo group and couldn't find it..

If you could find a link that'd be excellent!

 

[Curtis]

Found this one by Briitts on the Yahoogroups:

Hi,
> >
> > Its a bitch of a job but not impossible.
> >
> > The hardest bit is removing the plenum chamber bots, allen key,
as
> > they are very awkward.
> >
> > 1. Remove the IC, and the pipes that exits the plenum, I think
its
> > the one with the dump valve on.
> >
> > 2. Undo the A/C bracket that is attached to the strut, this will
> > allow some flexability when you remove the bolts.
> >
> > 3. Undo the bolts on the plenum. Goodluck!
> >
> > 4. Undo the r clip and slide out the pin inside the car holding
> the
> > pedal to the rod and
> >
> > 5) Undo the two nuts holding the cylinder on
> >
> > 6) Undo the hydraulic pipe going into the cylinder.
> >
> > 7) Undo the main pipe to the filler.
> >
> > Remember to have some water around in case you spill fluid, paint
> it
> > loves yes it does.
> >
> > Thats it, only took me 5 minutes to write!
> >
> > Good luck

 

[Curtis]

Here was mine:

Well I've finally finished it, not as bad as I first thought either, here's
how it went.

11:30- Started.
11:31- Noticed CV boot on drivers side has gone DOH! (Next Sunday)
I spent the next half an hour or so looking at it alot and convincing my
stepdad Pete to help, decided nothing ventured nothing gained and got
started.
Thought I'd try the option of leaving the engine where it is first, which
meant not a lot of space to work with, how you managed to reach the cylinder
from underneath the car I'll never know Nigel, you must have orangutan arms!
I bleed the system, stripped away all the pipes that were in the way, and
removed the reservoir. To undo the two nuts that held the cylinder in place
I needed to get a 1/4 inch 13mm deep socket which would make the job alot
easier.
Spent the next hour driving to and searching around Halfords and Camberley
Auto Factors, all to no avail.
Took out the gudgen pin from the inside but had to improvise to undo the
nuts holding the cylinder as I had no 13mm deep socket but managed to get it
out, definately a two person job one pushing from the outside another
pulling and guiding from the inside.
Removed in under an hour. (Not bad if I say so myself!)
Next step was to fit the new one...
Tied some string around the end to pull on from inside the car also tied
some string on it to compress the cylinder, with a lot of pushing, pulling,
shoving, shouting and swearing I'd managed to get the new cylinder in place,
with my training in the Moscow state circus I managed to contort myself into
a position to put back the gudgen pin and clip (upside down with legs over
the back of the chair holding long nosed pliers with pin in one hand guiding
with another hand and with my third hand I held the torch (the other reason
I was in the circus).
Put all the screws back in under a tarpaulin as it had started to rain or
should I say down pour. Put all the pipes back on re-bleed and filled up the
system, then tested.
All fine except a squeak which I hope will go away when I spray it with
WD40, myself and Pete are now enjoying a well earned beer, job done if you
don't enclude the trip to Halfords, the standing around and copious amounts
of tea drinking, in about 2.5 hours.

 

[Curtis]

And another way:

1. Jack the car up so it's safe and you can get underneath it. You will also
need to
support the engine, as the right rear and left front engine mounts have
to be undone.
You also have to disconnect the front engine mount and the exhausted at
the turbo.

2. After undoing the engine mounts and exhaust, push the engine as far
forward as you can.
You are now ready to attack the master cylinder. It may be an idea to
drain the
fluid from the reservoir if you can otherwise be ready to clean up the
mess.

3. Remove the master cylinder reservoir and rubber hose.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic line on the master cylinder.

5. Undo the master cylinder bolts. Top one is not to bad, but the
bottom one I had to undo by crawling under the car and reaching up.

6. Disconnect the pin that connects the master cylinder to the clutch pedal
and pull the pin out.

7 Pull the master cylinder off the firewall and push it down. You may have
to
compress the plunger in (it's spring loaded) so that it clears the hole
in
the firewall. I had to remove the cylinder from beneath the car.

8. Take your new/reconditioned master cylinder and compress the plunger
as far as it will go and tie it there with a piece of string.

9. From underneath th car reach up and position the cylinder so that it is
aligned with the hole in the firewall. A second set of hands here is
helpful.

10 From the top, make sure the plunger is through the hole in the firewall,
and undo the string. You should now be able to wriggle the cylinder
onto it's mounting bolts.

The rest is the reverse of the removal. Be prepared for some skin off the
knuckles
and some scratches up your forearms. You will of course need to bleed the
clutch once everything has been installed.

 

[bean]

Thank you very much...

I hope to get this job done before Santapod.

Did I see you Monday morning heading out of Arborfield? I was on the phone not really paying attention, you flashed your lights.

 

[Curtis]

Yup that was me! I had to drop Caroline off at the Imperium...