Brake hose advice/help

[PobodY]

Ok... I still haven't got this fixed. - In my effort to get the hoses changed it looks like one of the steel lines has split.
I've decided at this point that a professional should put the new lines in, and they way to get around it being SORN is to book it for an MOT knowing it will fail so that I can move it.

Whilst it's on stands, does this look like a leaking sump gasket:

All the oily crap seems to be around the join rather than pissing out of any of the seals above it.

How easy it that to change with the engine in? Is it an MOT fail, because I should probably sort it out now if it is (plus I haven't done my fluids change yet and I don't want to have to drop all that synthetic oil to change the sump gasket).

What about this one; is it a leaking power steering rack, or is it something else:

The reason I ask is that in the foreground is the front pipe of my exhaust complete with oily shite on it; seems to me that something is dripping on it, so I thought I should try to sort that out too.
It's not a great shot because I was lying on my back in the dark trying to put the camera directly where it seemed to be dripping.

It hasn't all been sitting on my arse... I did have a go a refurbishing my wheels too seeing as they are off:

 

[johnny gtir]

Sump is not bad to sort it is not a gasket it is sealent just make sure you clean it proerly once you get it off before resealing

 

[PobodY]

So I'm OK to just take the small sump off and put some new sealant on it? The baffle plate etc will all stay where they are and not need to be touched; I remember a that there's a second set of bolts to get them out, so I was hoping it was just a matter of draining the oil and then resealing it.

This is definitely a job I can do myself... any recommendations for the sealant; Halfraud's finest?
It looks like someone used orange sealant last time; is that the "high temperature copper" stuff?

 

[johnsy]

easy job!

let the gasket harden before you offer it up and tigten ,or all the paste will just squeeze out.

 

[johnny gtir]

Yes undo oil drain plug.undo all the 10mm bolts prize off the sump pan get a stanley blade or similar clean off all the old sealer from the bottom of engine and the sump pan get a cloth with some solvent on ie petrol wipe it all clean check the sump pan is in good condition not weaping due to corrosion. run a nice bead of sealant (instant gasket) round edges of sump pan enough to get a good seal but not to much it squirts all over. i personally would offer it back up while sealer is still wet to get a good seal refit all bolts leave to dry for as long as possible at least a couple of hours refill with oil job done. The orange sealant you mention is just instant gasket i have a small tube from nissan it is orange but i also have a larger tube that fits in a silicone gun which is black all instant gasket will be high temp i would say

 

[PobodY]

A big thanks to Bob for coming around to do the hard part; replacing the brake line!

I haven't changed the sump pan gasket yet. I might see how the MOT goes first.

 

[PobodY]

Screw waiting for the MOT. - The sump is off and I've given it a bit of a bashing. It wasn't particularly dented, but when I put a spirit level across it I could see it was lower in the middle and I figure it can't hurt.
The front edge is definitely showing some signs of battle scars, but other than that it seems pretty good, and I don't think there have been any issues with the pick-up.

Is the best thing to go around the bolt holes with the sealant, let it start to harden, loosely assemble... wait for half an hour or so, then nip it up?

I figure I want a continuous bead all the way around, and I don't want to squish it too early to avoid squeezing it into the sump or making it too thin to be an effective seal. - Nissan says to fill the grooves and only go inside the holes (not around them); does it matter if I don't put the bolts back in following their sequence as long as I do it in a diagonal fashion (to prevent it distorting)?

 

[Molz]

Just out of interest, where did you buy your new brake lines from and what did they cost? Looking at doing mine now while i have the car in bits

 

[PobodY]

I bought them from "brakelines.co.uk", but they are HEL parts. - Funnily enough I should have a second set of them because I won a competion in Banzai... excpet they never turned-up at the guy at HEL seems to have developed amnesia about the whole thing.

 

[Molz]

These guys seem to have a terrible reputation on most forums, I cant even access the link from work as it's been blocked!

 

[johnsy]

I bought them from "brakelines.co.uk", but they are HEL parts. - Funnily enough I should have a second set of them because I won a competion in Banzai... excpet they never turned-up at the guy at HEL seems to have developed amnesia about the whole thing.

I won a trackday in one of the mag's took me 6 month of constant hassle to get it, in the end another trackday company honoured the prize,

 

[PobodY]

I think the guy is now prep'ing a Ginetta for Time Attack, so he's busy with that and forgotten about my brake hoses (plus he has been sick).

I didn't know that HEL have a bad reputation; what is supposed to be wrong with them? I had no problems with the kit; it comes with a new banjo bolt and two new copper washers for each calliper. Plus the hex head on the lines is much easier to work with than the OEM fitment.
I guess the rubber grommet pieces are not a great match for the mounting points on the car, but then the old hoses were held on with cable ties, so it's not really that different.

 

[PobodY]

Anyway... the sump is back on; I just did the bolts up finger tight and left it for 24 hours. Is there any particular torque to finish with, or just a bit tighter than they are?

Can I do the rocker cover the same way, or is that a stupid idea? It weeps just a touch near where the breather is, but I can't bring myself to buy all the gaskets just to sort that out.

 

[Fast Guy]

http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=196
http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=190

 

[PobodY]

Thanks for that; I always spend ages trying to find the right pages!

I don't think my torque wrench goes as low as 7.5Nm. Tighter than hand, but not much tighter than that it is then!