Boost tee
- Thread starter R R' us
- Start date
The lowest you can go it 0.5 bar. Normally with a dawes device you wind them out to give you less boost (less pressure on the spring) whereas a bleed valve is the other way (i.e. in bleeds less boost off). - I'm pretty sure it's a dawes device, so wind it all the way out then you need to test where the boost is at as you wind it back in.
I don't know what the maximum boost it will hold is, but it's probably more than you'd expect.
I don't know what the maximum boost it will hold is, but it's probably more than you'd expect.
It's worth getting a more accurate gauge because Torr (mmHg) is a barometric measurement rather than pressure; although it may not be much, it's affected by temperature. Bar, atmospheres, pascals, and PSI are valid pressure measurements.... plus if you run over the factory boost level you'll go off the top of that gauge.
It's a bit of a pain to set up a boost controller like this; I made and adjustment, took it for a drive (usually involving the A55 so I could open it up)... then opened the bonnet, made an adjustment, took it for a drive... until I was happy it was making the boost level I was after (1bar). - You could also do it on a rolling road, but I don't think it's worth the money seeing as you were only on one a couple of days ago.
700mmHg (the highest value on the standard Pulsar boost gauge) is about 0.9bar at STP, so that gives you a little headroom to play with.
It's a bit of a pain to set up a boost controller like this; I made and adjustment, took it for a drive (usually involving the A55 so I could open it up)... then opened the bonnet, made an adjustment, took it for a drive... until I was happy it was making the boost level I was after (1bar). - You could also do it on a rolling road, but I don't think it's worth the money seeing as you were only on one a couple of days ago.
700mmHg (the highest value on the standard Pulsar boost gauge) is about 0.9bar at STP, so that gives you a little headroom to play with.