black smoke

[GTIR-LOZ]

hi all, when accelerating hard using 1.15bar of boost i get quite alot of black smoke, but when i turn the boost down to .6 bar there is none when booting it, its def black smoke, is it possible that the plugs\leads etc can cause this prob, by not igniting the colder charge properly,
im using the hks s40i ( too change to the s45i asap ) also have front mount, forge oil seperator, k&N filter, full mongoose, hks gtrs tubby, avcr and safc(not setup still ) and a hks ssq using purple insert

i know black smoke is usually an air leak but im sure i dont have one as it is fine at .6 of a bar

any ideas where to start :?:

 

[AJ4]

it might be fine at 0.6 bar but leaking at 1.15 bar ?

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

yeah i guess, i hope not as that is going to be virtually impossible to find :roll:
any ideas how you would check such a thing
i thought maybe the injectors arnt up to scratch at that boost level, although ive been running like that for a year and have always had a tiny bit of smoke but now its alot worse

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

bit of an update, i tried another maf - no good made it run a bit worse if anything, have changed the plugs to hks s45i's new leads still no change, checked the maf earth millivolts 45mv!! re ground white wire got 6 mv 8) retested and found car runs alot smoother with power coming in earlier, but still occassionally a bit of a stutter on light throttle and when leaving the car over night, upon starting it seems if the engine is flooded, unable to achieve cold start idle if i put my foot on accelerator pedal the revs drop if i floor it the car will cut out and be a pig to start with spluttering etc, has anyone had this before :?:

 

[Fast Guy]

CO2 or coolant sensors can also make you run rich.

 

[houghy_1]

....and when leaving the car over night, upon starting....if i put my foot on accelerator pedal the revs drop if i floor it the car will cut out and be a pig to start with spluttering etc, has anyone had this before :?:

Mines off the road for the winter and when i start her up and tap the accelerator the same thing happens on mine so id also be interested if anyone has any ideas :?: :?:

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

i am guessing its a fuel regulator prob, im not too sure on how to check it without actually replacing it, i dont think there is a problem with no fuel on start up as it starts on the button just you cannot rev it for about 5-10 seconds, is there a way of checking the coolant sensor and the co2 sensor out fastguy :?: i have done the faulty code check and it comes back 5/5

 

[jpward]

Another possibility may be the FPR as ive been told these can split inside causing over fueling and or sticking injectors can also be "Silent over fuelers" hence your smog trail!

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

thanks i guess i need to try a new one, is it worth gettting an adjustable one - that way i can see the fuel pressure as well

 

[jpward]

I have a FSE one and was told a SARD or nismo one would have been better and yes perfect for setting higher levels but you need to RR it to make it right set up of course

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

i have an old standard one laying around, it needs an o ring (use yours)and its obviously used and maybe a little tired but i never had any noticiable problem with it.

i live on the Dark Island (canvey) which wont be far from you......do you want it??? the fpr that is :lol:

if you dont make me trek for miles its free btw

Stu

 

[leon2engines]

DOOIE, if LOZ dont want im intrested. i have similar probs, (made slightly better by reconnecting all the wires to the oxygen sensor tho ) let me know mate



thanks

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

yeah that would be good mate, thanks very much, i dont know about setting foot on the dark island though, it always smells of gas over there :lol:

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

yeah that would be good mate, thanks very much, i dont know about setting foot on the dark island though, it always smells of gas over there :lol:

:lol: true, its the sprouts

just out of curiosity have you ever changed the O2 sensor? they aint cheap either

DOOIE, if LOZ dont want im intrested. i have similar probs, (made slightly better by reconnecting all the wires to the oxygen sensor tho ) let me know mate
thanks

try re earthing the maf first

 

[leon2engines]

already done it sugar lips. made a quite a bit of difference, bit smoother but not quite spot on yet,

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

nope i have only swopped over the maf all other sensors are origional, i thought it waould bring up a fault code if one of them is playing up, im pretty sure its a fueling fault

 

[jpward]

nope i have only swopped over the maf all other sensors are origional, i thought it waould bring up a fault code if one of them is playing up, im pretty sure its a fueling fault

Id tend to agree thats why i sugested the two links in the system between pressure and fuel!

Id also run a bottle of stp injector cleaner threw slightly stronger than normal as in 1 bottle for 30-40L fuel and take her out on a long steady run you could test the injectors in situ for opening effectivness by passing power over them and listening if they all move freely but you wont be able to pick up small slight slowness in them.

Just another thought mate did you after running a fault code check start the car to see what says about mixture/Rpm??

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

no how do you do that?? i have noticed though that my air/fuel gauge does not even register when its happening, so maybe its underfuelling, but i would have assumed that it would be hard to start

 

[jpward]

ok ignition on then using trusty paper clip to cross terminals to preform code check when flashing 55 (hopefully) just start the car and at 2500rpm your "Engine Check" light should come on and off quickly (2secs) also on means Lean mixture then just turn off to exit diagnostic mode3.

I use this from time to time just to see whats what especially on longer trips on good roads where steady crusing can be achieved.

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

cheers mate i will try that in the morning, 8) although cant actually get car to rev to that speed on initaial startup