Battery Relocation Kits - a must for any R!

boucherie

boucherie

New Member
Right ive finally fitted a battery relocation kit to the R and its a kit that has sold very well on the gt4 owners club, so i have been the test vehicle for adapting the instructions to the R.

Firstly this is a fantastic bit of kit, and is abit more involved that the relocation kit in the how to guides, but only because you are putting another solenoid in the circuit to act as a much needed safety precaution.

The fitting of the kit is very easy (after all i managed to do it :roll: :!: :!: ) and i have been speaking to the bloke that makes them and he has agreed to sell them to GTi-R owners for £100inc delivery which is great considering they're normally £125inc delivery, and postage alone is about a tenner. If you have any questions please feel free to reply to this post or you can email the bloke directly on
mrbarry@blueyonder.co.uk

below is a pic of all the bits you get, including a spare 60amp fuse etc and if one of the mods could contact him i think he might be able to do a further discount if we put a link to his website when its up and running :?:



I will be at JAE in case anyone wants to have a look at the finished article before choosing to buy one

Ian
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
il post up a pic of how it looks in the boot when i put it in a battery box which i shall be collecting from the postie tomorrow before work, so all being well the pic should be on here by tomorrow night
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
that price only includes all the cables etc, it DOESNT include a battery box although he does provide a couple of threaded rods which will secure the battery down and you can still get a battery box to cover the whole lot up (see pics below) any more questions please ask. Abattery box can be picked up new from ebay for around £10inc delivery.


 
M

Mr Overboooost

Guest
why so much cable as you only need 2 lengths plus 4 crimps :?

cheers
gary
 
boucherie

boucherie

New Member
you get:
2 new earth leads,
a solenoid trigger cable,
starter motor wire with solenoid at the battery end,
a cable from the solenoid to the positive
new fuse box leads with a 60amp fuse.

the reason for all this wire is to make the whole setup alot safer. You can quite easily just extend the wires and crimp, but by having the solenoid in the circuit you only have one 'live' wire until you turn the key and then the trigger wire sends a signal to the starter motor once the solenoid has engaged. If you want a better description of how this all works you would probably be better off emailing the bloke that makes them directly.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
why so much cable as you only need 2 lengths plus 4 crimps
Click to expand...
My thoughts exactly.

Please don't take this the wrong way as I'm not trying to hijack this thread but below is a link to a thread I started about a year ago with a list of components needed to do a neat and tidy job of this mod.

http://bb.gtiroc.com/viewtopic.php?t=20847&highlight=battery+boot

As I was selling them at the time I did a fair amount of research into the parts needed for this mod and called various race tracks to find out if there were any special requirements necessary to facilitate entry into track days or race events, the only rules were

1. The battery box needed to be rigidly fixed (bolted) to the floor pan of the vehicle and the battery securely fitted inside the box.
2. A remote battery isolator switch had to be incorporated into the system, this had to be one that Isolates the main battery feed as well as the ignition feed, thus preventing engine run on, all tracks seemed to require this and said it was obligatory in most competition.

The first point I made above about the box and battery being securly fitted to the floor pan of the vehicle is very important as you are moving the battery from a reletivley safe place under the bonnet and more importantly OUTSIDE OF THE COTPIT of the car to behind you INSIDE THE COTPIT of the car, if you had a head on collision with something or rolled your car whilst driving anywhere, track or street, the last thing you want flying through the air and beeting you round the back of the head is a 7 - 10kg lump of battery.
This is the reason why battery boxes made for boats are cheap and the ones made for motorsport are expensive. The ones made for boats can afford to be pretty flimsey (and cheap) as are generally made for cosmetic reasons and to stop the battery terminals from getting wet. The ones for motorsport however tend to be made out of something far more substantial so they can be fixed securly into position.

If anyone of you have done this mod and have used a boat battery box, just imagine, your driving along with your mates, members of your family, wife or kids and you do have an accident, if that battery should come loose, imagine it's path as it travels through the passenger compartments through to the front of the car, that would be like a 7 - 10kg bullet.

Although I have done this mod myself, using the parts in my list, the battery box I made is made from the composite material in the list and is bolted to the boot floor with 4 M10 bolts.

I know I'm banging on about this but in a car like this (or any performance vehicle) saftey is so important and it must be though of first.

And before anyone ask's I have stopped selling these kits but would gladly point you in the direction of the parts supplier, I'm not making anymore boxes either but would leave that choice entirly down to you. (Demon Tweeks sell some good ones though).

Saftey check and rant over :)
 
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