Link knock sensor

messerant

New Member
As it stands my car has the stock ecu in it, but I have a G4+ to fit and Link Can Wideband.

I need to upgrade the knock sensor as I think mines damaged anyway, and the mapper said it best to replace the stock one with the Link one.

Or there is even a Bosch one that should also be OK to work with the link


I’ll shortly have the front end in bits to do some jobs and I though access might be better now to replace the knock sensor “whilst I’m in” but then left me wondering if it would work with my current setup (stock ecu/wiring) for the time being, to enable me to drive it to the mappers!

make sense what im
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Tbh the Nissan ones fine.

I spoke to the guys who are going to map mine in a couple of months.

I asked about this and they said to make sure the surface is clean/contamination free when screwed to the block.
They will check its effectiveness before mapping, but he was pretty relaxed about it.

Plus if the G4 loses signal to the det sensor, I'm lead to believe it should throw up a sensor issue and project the engine as it can't detect any sound!


If it is damaged, the Bosch one will be fine!
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Cheers, so the Bosch or the link will plug in to work with my existing stock ecu for now and run?
The stock Nissan ECU expects a specific signal type (more like an on/off or resonant response).
Bosch sensors output a linear voltage change when detecting knock, this mismatch can trigger fault codes for the standard ECU.

However, since you're running a G4 ECU, it should be able to detect the difference and offer better more accurate knock detection.
It should also be the common 2-wire flat-response types, so compatible with the GTiR.
 

messerant

New Member
That’s the thing mate, at the moment I’m on stock ecu u til I get my g4 fitted..

I wondered if it would do the job for now, until I get it properly sorted when fitting the link
 

messerant

New Member
Damn it. It runs ok as it is on the old OEM one, but as I’ve got all the wishbones off and stuff I though it was a job I could do to make it easier
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
Damn it. It runs ok as it is on the old OEM one, but as I’ve got all the wishbones off and stuff I though it was a job I could do to make it easier
If you ever take out the engine in the future, remove all the idle control crap round the back of the plenum.

You can then take off the plenum in about 10mins with little fuss and get quick access to the knock sensor and other bits round the back of the car, much easier!
 
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