B
Bhavick
Guest
Hi,
I was just wondering what milieage pulsars reach the end of the road?
Thanks
I was just wondering what milieage pulsars reach the end of the road?
Thanks
Braveheart
New Member
IMOA mileage often means very little for these cars now that they are 13+ years old. Obviously, you can still find good clean standard examples where mileage will make a difference. There are many factors that effect the longevity of this car, mainly the previous owners and how they have been looked after. Some are even brought back from near dead to become excellent examples. Many have been rebuilt.
Like most jap cars though they can clock up 100k no problem if they get serviced and respected.
Like most jap cars though they can clock up 100k no problem if they get serviced and respected.
gunmetalgtir
New Member
I've seen one with 30,000 on it and the engine went! :shock:
I've also seen one that did 90,000 before the original clutch had to be changed! :shock: :lol:
I've also seen one that did 90,000 before the original clutch had to be changed! :shock: :lol:
P
pulsarboby
Guest
yep just echoing what everyone else has said really.
most of these cars are around 15+ years old and many of them have either had rebuilds or clock changes!
so unless you happen to have the full history of car 'from new', in japan! then no one really knows what mileage the cars have covered, and mileage should be completely irrelevant anyway, especially due to the fact that these are performance cars, and a majority of them are driven as such!
you could take two identical cars with different drivers 'one harsh and one good' and one car could last 150,000+ miles whereas the other one could be dead and buried in less than 10,000
f1 engines are a prime example as there changed after virtually every race!
most of these cars are around 15+ years old and many of them have either had rebuilds or clock changes!
so unless you happen to have the full history of car 'from new', in japan! then no one really knows what mileage the cars have covered, and mileage should be completely irrelevant anyway, especially due to the fact that these are performance cars, and a majority of them are driven as such!
you could take two identical cars with different drivers 'one harsh and one good' and one car could last 150,000+ miles whereas the other one could be dead and buried in less than 10,000
f1 engines are a prime example as there changed after virtually every race!
gtirx2
Member
Ok to change the thread a little bit,how long do you guys think a 2618 alloy forged piston engine should last?
I only ask as i have been looking into this a little bit and some people think that you should be looking at another rebuild after about 30-40k miles if not sooner!
The reason for this is because of the clearences that 2618 alloy forged pistons need and when cold they slap and wear the bore and piston alot faster,this is because basicly 2618 alloy pistons are race pistons and you should expect the increased wear.
If you do short jouneys and not let the motor warm up first is also ment to kill the motor a lot sooner!
What i am wondering is how many mile you can get out of them before it starts affecting performance?
Heres some info,some about other cars...
Then, why not install forged pistons instead of the stock pistons?
When I had massive oil consumption on my Viggen, this was attributed to blown pistons (this was not entirely right, but more later). As I had to spend quite some money, I investigated if forged pistons could be the way to go. A german tuner offered to install Wiseco custom forged pistons, but he told me that usually, 50.000 km on forged pistons would be a lot. It is not the piston that fails in this case, but the cylinder wall. This was backed up by a Wiseco rep I phoned: Forged pistons behave different from standard pistons concerning heat. If the car is still cold, piston tolerance is bigger. This will cause additional horizontal movement on the piston and therefore more wear on the engine. Not good for people using the car for a lot of short trips / city cruising.
Plus, if the piston is very hot, it can "mill out" the piston wall, which is softer than the piston material.
Generally speaking, one could probably say that the thermic balance of the engine is "disturbed" by using a forged piston, as the engine block was not designed to work with such a piston in mind.
The same was explained to me by Johann Heuschmid, former Saab factory tuner, and a Mahle Rep (Mahle is a South-German company which makes the stock pistons for the B235R).
Forged Pistons
Forged pistons are typically made from one of two alloys: SAE 4032 or SAE 2618. The 4032 alloy is most often used for pistons in street engines, drag engines, naturally aspirated engines and many sportsman class circle track engines. The 4032 alloy contains more silicon (11 to 13.5 percent) than 2618 (less than 0.25 percent), which reduces thermal expansion, improves lubricity and scuff resistance. The 2618 alloy, by comparison, is a low silicon alloy so it has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and much more tendency to scuff. But it is about a 10-15 percent stronger material and is typically the alloy of choice for serious racing, marine engines, and boosted and bottle-fed engines that produce a lot of heat in the combustion chamber. However, these pistons are not to be used for street or mild racing applications where they won't be replaced routinely.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570
Even je put a coating on the skirt to show the wear.
http://www.jepistons.com/pistoncoatings.asp
What do you guys think?
I only ask as i have been looking into this a little bit and some people think that you should be looking at another rebuild after about 30-40k miles if not sooner!
The reason for this is because of the clearences that 2618 alloy forged pistons need and when cold they slap and wear the bore and piston alot faster,this is because basicly 2618 alloy pistons are race pistons and you should expect the increased wear.
If you do short jouneys and not let the motor warm up first is also ment to kill the motor a lot sooner!
What i am wondering is how many mile you can get out of them before it starts affecting performance?
Heres some info,some about other cars...
Then, why not install forged pistons instead of the stock pistons?
When I had massive oil consumption on my Viggen, this was attributed to blown pistons (this was not entirely right, but more later). As I had to spend quite some money, I investigated if forged pistons could be the way to go. A german tuner offered to install Wiseco custom forged pistons, but he told me that usually, 50.000 km on forged pistons would be a lot. It is not the piston that fails in this case, but the cylinder wall. This was backed up by a Wiseco rep I phoned: Forged pistons behave different from standard pistons concerning heat. If the car is still cold, piston tolerance is bigger. This will cause additional horizontal movement on the piston and therefore more wear on the engine. Not good for people using the car for a lot of short trips / city cruising.
Plus, if the piston is very hot, it can "mill out" the piston wall, which is softer than the piston material.
Generally speaking, one could probably say that the thermic balance of the engine is "disturbed" by using a forged piston, as the engine block was not designed to work with such a piston in mind.
The same was explained to me by Johann Heuschmid, former Saab factory tuner, and a Mahle Rep (Mahle is a South-German company which makes the stock pistons for the B235R).
Forged Pistons
Forged pistons are typically made from one of two alloys: SAE 4032 or SAE 2618. The 4032 alloy is most often used for pistons in street engines, drag engines, naturally aspirated engines and many sportsman class circle track engines. The 4032 alloy contains more silicon (11 to 13.5 percent) than 2618 (less than 0.25 percent), which reduces thermal expansion, improves lubricity and scuff resistance. The 2618 alloy, by comparison, is a low silicon alloy so it has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and much more tendency to scuff. But it is about a 10-15 percent stronger material and is typically the alloy of choice for serious racing, marine engines, and boosted and bottle-fed engines that produce a lot of heat in the combustion chamber. However, these pistons are not to be used for street or mild racing applications where they won't be replaced routinely.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570
Even je put a coating on the skirt to show the wear.
http://www.jepistons.com/pistoncoatings.asp
What do you guys think?
O
Odin
Guest
Now that's far more interesting than the other numptys first post 
.
Rob
.Rob
warringtonjack
Active Member
Won't this be countered by using liners? Or worst case scenario you just need to replace liners and not pistons. Although the liners are becoming almost as expensive as pistons!!! :doh:gtirx2 said:
Braveheart
New Member
;-) .... :yawn:marcymarc said: