What else should I order?

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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
Just received my GT3071 from Turbo Dynamics and the things I can think of to order to fit it are:

Silicon for outlet
mandrel 90 degree bend (to couple to turbo outlet and Forge i/c pipework)
silicone coupler
76mm>71mm silicone reducer for turbo inlet(have 3" inlet pipe and turbo is 2.75" inlet)
Multilayer exhaust manifold gasket
New studs&nuts for turbine housing(turbo doesn't come with any-are they M8x1.25?)
Possibly new exhaust studs also-I replaced all these when engine was rebuilt though so hopefully not needed.

The turbine to downpipe gasket is metal and should be reuseable.The turbo to exhaust manifold gasket looks indestructable.

I have a Forge outlet off the turbo which I could cut to fit but it would be a crime as its so well made and I'd rather buy some new pipe and make my own.

How big an air filter do I need for this turbo(will run around 1.7-2 bar)?This is the one I have on and its not that big tbh but maybe its fine as is?Its connected to a Z32 MAF to give you some scale.
 
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markwashington

Guest
If I was you, I'd replace all the gaskets at the same time, they aren't expensive direct from nissan and then you'll be safe in the knowledge that you shouldn't have to replace any of them for a while.
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
Dan's been kindly looking after my PAR gearset that he rebuilt Johnsy.

I already have braided oil and water hoses that Mike(Exgtir) made me.The exhaust gasket I'd use is the metal multilayer one off the 200sx rather than the crappy OE one.
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
I mean does the one I have look big enough?To me I don't see how a bigger one will particularly flow more air as it all has to go through the opening of the MAF anyway and the current one covers much more surface area than the hole in the Z32 if you knwo what I mean.
My old one on the standard MAF was twice the size but does that make a difference ie was it overkill?
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
The more free flowing a filter is the easier it is for a turbo to spool up, It's not all about how much it can flow for it's size, I think my filter is rated at 650hp.............but will the car ever make it?

Try to think of minimising any restriction on the inlet,because if you do you will loose a huge amount of power and also you will make the power move further up the rpm scale.
 
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ashills

Active Member
have you got a full 3" exhaust
when we ran my last one even having the lambda in the end of the tail pipe cost 7bhp i think so any restriction will hinder you as red says
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
I just have the 3" Janspeed downpipe Alan into a Mongoose system.I was thinking of getting the rest made in 3" too depending how much it would cost and I could get for the middle and back sections of Mongy.Will also improve the area around the air filter as its a bit hotchpotch at the moment.
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
Decided to chop the Forge pipe in the end to simplify fitting.I've got the silicone inlet and outlets, ordered stainless studs&nuts for the turbine housing, a new oil return gasket and MLS exhaust mani gasket.Think I have a new turbo>mani gasket in the garage.

My question is, is the T28 turbo to elbow a standard size?I ask because Nissan want £21.44 +vat for one but there are some on ebay for 200sx's and Renault 5's for less than half that delivered.I know that GT series turbos need one hole elongating as I have done it on the standard one already.

Sorted out the air filter area this morning and made a new heatshield for it, lot less restriction to the filter now.



Also swapped back to the standard expansion tank as struggling to get the Forge one to fit anwhere after moving moving stuff around.Only place I could find was in front of the radiator.

 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
Got most of the bits I need now.There was a problem with the manifold gasket I ordered and the company sent me a copper one instead.It looks fine and I'm sure all will be good but just want assurance they are ok to use as I've never seen one before.Its more like a thin flange than a gasket tbh but as copper is pretty soft I'm sure the seal will be good?

Oh and is i ok to reuse the copper washers on the oil banjos?I know its a silly thing to risk leaking but is it really going to leak?Is it?
 
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JIMMYBACK

JIMMYBACK

Active Member
ive reused my copper washed before plenty of times but as you said before is it worth the risk for a few pennies for new ones
 
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ChrisS

New Member
I'd tap into the turbo housing before you put it on to take a feed for your boost controler. You'll get much better response. If you havent got one on already an uprated actuator. Ditch the mongoose part and get a full 3 inch system fitted or its going to restrict things

Noticed you have your innovate wideband controller fairly close to your distributor tie wrappped to the intercooler piping. If I wa you id move that round to the opposite side of the engine bay as far away from the dizzy as possible. they've a reputation for the eletrical interference or something like that from the distributor frying the electronics in the unit as I found out to my cost when i decided to mount mine right next to it.
 
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markwashington

Guest
I've been running my car with a standard elbow to Goose downpipe to custom decat and have just changed this for a full 3 inch Janspeed turbo back, I'm getting the car re-mapped on Tuesday so it'll be interesting to see how much difference it makes. I'll be posting the results obviously, but I'll keep you posted.
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
ChrisS said:
I'd tap into the turbo housing before you put it on to take a feed for your boost controler. You'll get much better response. If you havent got one on already an uprated actuator. Ditch the mongoose part and get a full 3 inch system fitted or its going to restrict things

Noticed you have your innovate wideband controller fairly close to your distributor tie wrappped to the intercooler piping. If I wa you id move that round to the opposite side of the engine bay as far away from the dizzy as possible. they've a reputation for the eletrical interference or something like that from the distributor frying the electronics in the unit as I found out to my cost when i decided to mount mine right next to it.
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Why does having the feed for boost controller give better response when on the housing and by that do you mean ultimately less lag?I've heard people say it before.

I've had a quote for a 3" downpipe back system with 2 silencers for £365 at Ascar in Shefifeld but the problem is they cannot guarentee finishing it on a aturday as they only work a half day and I cannot get time off at the moment.Will probably end up leaving it there over a weekend and collecting monday but I don't really like to do this with places I don't know.

The innovate is whe Ed at Fusion fitted it, due to space constraints.I guess I can canle tie it to the strut brace which would nearly double its distance from the dizzy.
 
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skiddusmarkus

Active Member
markwashington said:
I've been running my car with a standard elbow to Goose downpipe to custom decat and have just changed this for a full 3 inch Janspeed turbo back, I'm getting the car re-mapped on Tuesday so it'll be interesting to see how much difference it makes. I'll be posting the results obviously, but I'll keep you posted.
Click to expand...
My boost increased a few psi just fro having the downpipe so it definitely does make a difference.
 
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