Werid Problems

MacK_Gtir

MacK_Gtir

Member
Ok so it has been a while since I have had a look at this.....

On cold the car takes it time to start it will want to catch but doesn't until after 4,5,6th time. I think but not sure it helps when I press and depress the accel pedal eventually it will start.

Even if the car is slightly bit warm it will not start I have to wait till cold.

Once started it runs fine A/F is a good 14.7 and rev it it goes rich and off rev it leans off and sets back to 14.7

I have replaced the -

coolant temp sensor (single spade connector is that the ecu one? or is it the red connector 2 pin?),
going to order a new 2 pin aswel
cold start device,
different spark plugs,
dizzy unit,
igntion coil,
ignition amp unit,
the idle control unit

thanks

MacK
 
Last edited:
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I would have guessed the IAC and/or the cold-start solenoid, but if you've replaced them and it didn't solve it that's clearly not the problem.

Air leak somewhere? I'm just wondering if the mixture isn't rich-enough to fire in the cold weather. - I'm working on the assumption that you're having to use some throttle to get it to start, obviously if you're just in the habit of using throttle when you try to start it there's a risk it's just flooding.

It' not such a common habit any more, but I can still remember the auto-choke feature on carburettors that required you to press and release the accelerator once to set it before you tried to start. - I had a girlfriend who insisted on doing that to fuel-injected cars too.

How standard is the engine? Is there anything else that could be causing the problem; and after-market ECU with no cold-start support for example?
 
The Doc

The Doc

Moderators
Staff member
Also do a voltage check on the tps as that will cause this issue, a lot of the earth wires on the 6" subloom break going to the tps, very simple repair and check procedure.
 
MacK_Gtir

MacK_Gtir

Member
Not standard.

I dont think there is very much fuel that is getting in the cylinders as the plugs are quiet dry and for 1000cc injectors you expect them to flood on the slightest touch.

It has a nis-tune ecu which was mapped by stevie fctuning.

I will unplug the lamda and try.

I got a auto electrician to come have a look on tuesday aswel.

Edit: Also going to do the ignition timing just to be sure.
 
The Doc

The Doc

Moderators
Staff member
If in doubt fly ed from fusion up to sort the car, never heard good things about fc tuning and pulsars due to his liking to map cars that should not be due to issues and then people having issues with the car or worse,Nistune will still have the same issues as a stock ecu, as said check the throttle position sensor, or better still get some one with nistune software to plug in and you can use the data scan facility to check all sensors are in the correct parameters, a dodgy tps can cause your issue.
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Before you take it out and send it off... check the TPS voltage; if it's telling the ECU the wrong information, that could explain why you need to use a touch of throttle to get it to start.

I fiddled with mine once and the car would start, but you couldn't drive it; it just faltered every time I opened the throttles. - Set it correctly, and it was back to normal again.
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
TPS wont affect this. Sounds like the cold start enrichment has been messed up.

Please remember all the TPS does very little in actual running, it affects acceleration enrichment (a bit) and also controls throttle closed/idle/over run functions. It wont affect cold starting.

MacK, can you get me a cold start video showing the problem?

PobodY, what you had above was different, you had moved the tps too far that even with the throttle open, it thought it was shut, you would have been hitting an over-run fuel cut at about 1600 rpm. TPS should be set to about 0.5v which is around the threshold of where it sees it open/close.
 
B

BMCC

Member
The red top two pin is the Engine coolant temp sensor. The single pin is the gauge sender unit for the dash temp.
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Thats not well is it! Send me the ECU if you want and I'll see if I can have a look at the map (If its not locked) but starter is fine and so is compression. Could be sensor (MAF), if its always done it since you have had it, its more likely to be ECU, but that's one of the worse starting pulsars I've seen, usually once they have started they will pick up fine after.
 
MacK_Gtir

MacK_Gtir

Member
How much would it cost as I just got back into employment so may have to wait a month or so to save pennies.

I also checked that timing with a two different dizzy units and it starts when warm now but still takes its time, does help with abit of pedal pushing.

I only started doing it when it was last mapped back in aug 2010 by steve fc tuning
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Wow! - I've never had to crank mine like that... the only thing that comes close is when it flooded once, and I haven't had a problem with that since I stopped using the precious metal tip spark plugs.

Something is missing from the equation.
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
That's a mapping issue, I seem to remember another guy (nitrous gtir?) had his car mapped by fc and it did exactly the same, Christ even with my old nistune and almost all sensors disconnected the car still started easily.
 
MacK_Gtir

MacK_Gtir

Member
the second time he said the ecu had gone faulty or something and replaced it with a different which cost me aswel.

steve is a nice guy but i feel that after two mapping sessions it still has no resolve.

I just want it running nice!
 
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