Various small problems that seem to be solved

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Problem 1
My CAS has been doing something strange for a while. I'd borrowed Stu' which was brand new and seemed to make the car run smoother.

after a few paces forwards and backwards over the past week, the problem was a slightly damaged signal wire on the tail from the CAS. I swapped that with a one from spare unit I had. When I put it all together again, the car wouldn't start at all. A bit more troubleshoting later I found the earth wire in the connector on the loom side had failed :doh:

Put it all back together again and it works nice and smoothly too. The moral of the story is even when you check the resistance across cables, check the connectors too for any damage.

Problem 2
My turbo is a 3071 with the .64a/r. This is quite a quick responding turbo but boost response seemed really sharp in some gears and not so sharp in others. To keep the boost under control I went for a less responsive duty setting. Today I lashed in the boost controller so it is right next to the actuator and the hose from the inlet manifold is as short as possible. In total this has takenout about 12" of hose but the length from the solenoid to the actuator is a lot of that.

Its early days but boost response does feel sharper. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried similar and what results they found in case I'm imagaing it.
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
i know what you mean with regard to the boost / actuator pipe lengh jim.
it does make a difference!
it also pays to run these pipes in thick wall rubber instead of the pretty looking sillycone crap that people use lol.
all vacuum to pos pressure pipes should be kept to a minimum lengh as possible.
 

red reading

Active Member
As per problem number 2.

I did the same as i had the same issues but fitted a brass restrictor in the pipe jim to smooth the air flow out as my e01 was to quick to respond in some gears and ok in others, my boost sensor was by the turbo compressor as i found it got a reading quicker from there. this worked till the e01 greddy solinoid played up and i canged a lot of things then (including the turbo)
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Thanks gents. With having the solenoid so close to the engine, did the solenoids last? I notice Danny said his was playing up but that might have been coincidence?

Danny, sorry for being slow, how does having a brass restrictor in there help?

I agree with boost sensor on the compressor outlet, my turbo spiked badly without it that way.
 

red reading

Active Member
the boost just seemed to be more stable and consistent in all gears jim,i know why i tried it as i had seen vacuem gauges osilate (spelling) when setting up bike carbs and just thought about unstable air will cause problems ,but it worked well (i have often wondered about putting a resovoir tank in with check valves for the boost solinoid/wastegate actuator). my boost controller went mental in the end when i had a gt3076 on the car jim,it was'nt linked to where the solinoid was,i think that as long as you protect it from heat and put it on a vibration free mount it will be fine
 

olliecast

Active Member
Interesting on the second point, as i was looking at my hoses going to the boost controller today and though they looked too long.

Another job to do :)
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
i think that as long as you protect it from heat and put it on a vibration free mount it will be fine
Does zip tied to the plastic intake duct count as a vibration free mount :lol::lol:

I put it there for that reason but need to find a more profressional mount. I'd thought of dropping a bracket from the front of the engine and bolting it to it through rubber pads to help with vibration and heat?
 

red reading

Active Member
Does zip tied to the plastic intake duct count as a vibration free mount :lol::lol:

I put it there for that reason but need to find a more profressional mount. I'd thought of dropping a bracket from the front of the engine and bolting it to it through rubber pads to help with vibration and heat?
Zip ties are a man's best friend sometimes:lol:

yeah i think the mount your saying about will work,cant see why not;-)
 

ashills

Active Member
yep always set 3071's up so they take a boost source for actuator off the turbo snail if possible or first bit of pipe makes a big difference especially with the small housing as they come in so fast
 

ChrisS

New Member
Ive got my boost controller with the feed straight after the compressor, and have mounted the solonoid on the bolt that holds the radiator top attatchent thing on the slam panel. rekon ive got my pipes down to about 6 to 8inch inch to and from. Response is a lot better and more stable. theres a couple of blanks on the compressor housing so im going to tap a feed directly off of that when i take the turbo off in the next few weeks. Mine was origionally fed from under the inlet manifold and i got really bad spikes.
 

red reading

Active Member
yep always set 3071's up so they take a boost source for actuator off the turbo snail if possible or first bit of pipe makes a big difference especially with the small housing as they come in so fast

alan ,blow thru maf's any thought's on this?
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
alan ,blow thru maf's any thought's on this?
theres a guy near my yard that weve just sold a z32 to whos gonna be running blowby.
hes actually incased the whole z32 in fibreglass resin and bound it with stretch rubber, it looks like a big black golfball:lol: but cant see that booger blowing apart tbh
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMM lol plastic mafs and lots of boost

:lol::lol::lol: That's an idea I don't need to try then. Also, after slow and careful mapping and the enlarged wg I don't think I suffer from many issues that justify moving the MAF anyway.
 
Last edited:

Fusion Ed

Active Member
z32 blow through work fine if you hold them together. I commented on this recently. I have done several now.
 
Ref prob 2: I've been looking at doing something with this, aren't you meant to keep the hoses from the inlet-solenoid and actuator-solenoid equal lengths or does it not matter?
 
Top