Uprated Brake for Rear

[Braveheart]

I'm not very impressed with the performance from my rear breaks.
I've stripped the calipers down, had the read disks grooved but they are still crap.
It passes it's MOT but they do not even go through pads that's with three track days (250miles) when I've gone through on the front, one set of normal pads (from new) on OE calipers and one set of wilwood (track, smart pads) on four pots.

Do you think if you upgrade the rears it would cause problems with locking up the rears and what do you think of this kit below. I think you would have to build mounting brackets and maybe fiddle about to get the hand brake mechanism to fit.

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Ultralite Universal Radial Handbrake
This caliper provides all of the benefits of a light weight and compact design.
The unique integral handbrake mechanism makes it the most desirable rear caliper
on the market.
This version of the Ultralite Handbrake is set on a universal radial mounting enabling fitment to a wide range of cars.
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Features

Patent pending​

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CNC Machined Lightweight Aluminium BodyFully Dust SealedRigid DesignInternal Fluid CrossoverIntegral Self Adjusting Handbrake Mechanism​

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Technical Specification ​

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Disc Width10mm, 12mm, 20mm, 24mmPiston Size2 x 38.6mmPiston MaterialHard Anodised AluminiumPad Size76 x 65 x 14mmWeight950gHydraulic ThreadM10 x 1.0​

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Hi Spec Ultralite HB Calipers are only £170 each​

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Prices are exclusive of VAT​

 

[MarkTurbo]

they do not even go through pads that's with three track days (250miles) when I've gone through on the front, one set of normal pads (from new) on OE calipers and one set of wilwood (track, smart pads) on four pots.

The bias to the rear is only about 20% so you shouldnt really be going through rear pads very quickly ;-) Were you expecting them to be fooked after 3 trackdays or something :lol:

 

[Braveheart]

No, not fooked, but I would have liked them to work better than they do. I'd be happier if they worked harder, went through pads and took a bit of strain off the front breaks.
Maybe anything over 20% ver 80% would see them lock up under hard braking due to the wieght differential..... I feel they could be better though without any danger of them locking up.

 

[MarkTurbo]

What pads are you using in the rear at the moment?

 

[Braveheart]

What pads are you using in the rear at the moment?

Standard Nissan pads.....
I just do not think it's worth getting black diamond disks and uprated pads when the calipers are so crap....

For 340 quid <<edit> + vat plus pads and maybe braided break lines (400 pounds should do it), I could get 2 pots and really improve the rear breaking.

 

[EVOBAD]

ther are a few kits about seen a few pulsar with 300mm rear discs but to be onest u would be better spending your money else where what brakes do u hav on the front as they are more inportent

 

[Braveheart]

ther are a few kits about seen a few pulsar with 300mm rear discs but to be onest u would be better spending your money else where what brakes do u hav on the front as they are more inportent

I have Wilwood 285mm kit (4 pots) with a variety of pads.
They are a vast improvment from the OE but I feel I could do with even more stopping power and at the moment, the front brakes are doing all the work. I am limited to what I can fit on the front as I'm using 15" wheels.

 

[MarkTurbo]

at the moment, the front brakes are doing all the work.

They're meant to :doh: Even doing trackdays and using the car for events that are heavy on brakes a set of standard rear pads will last a few thousand miles ;-) If you really feel you want the rears to do more of the braking you could always fit an adjustable bias valve, but if you dont know what your doing you could always overbrake the rear and make things worse :lol:

 

[Odin]

I found after changing my rear disc's and pads to pagid they performed a whole lot better, I can actually feel the backs biting which I couldn't before.



Rob

 

[Shaun]

I have the GodSpeed 300mm rear big disc conversion and the difference in braking is incredible,i have Wilwood 4pots on the front with 310mm discs and smart pads and before i fit the rear kit from high speeds the front of the car would dive making the car very unstable under braking.With the bigger dics on the rear the car is so much more balanced and it actually stops now.

 

[pulsarboby]

as mark says, you shouldnt have the rears doing hardly any work on the track, this could severely unbalance the car under harsh braking!

eg take a bike.....2 wheels.....you never hit the rear brake under harsh braking on track or you will be all over the place, you only use it very lightly if you have gone in too hot on a bend and want to feather off some speed!
unfortunately with a car you dont have the convenience of using the brakes seperately (other than a dab of handbrake)

ive known people who race cars with drums fitted to rear to actually grease up the rear shoes so braking is more orientated to front of vehicle.

but if you want more braking to rear (for some unknown reason) then just fit a brake bias valve inside car, you can then make them 50/50 if you wish. im sure youll have a lovely time with them as the tyre wall comes looming over your bonnet:lol: :lol:

 

[Animaldaz]

My brother races with a guy who competes in a mini that has drums on the back but no shoes and cylinders inside!!!

 

[mattytappy]

talking of rear brakes....do nissan do a service kit for them as mine are sh1t...and sqweeling like a bitch so could do with a good coat of looking at.......this may help you as well braveheart......getting a good bit of new pressure to them as well as softer pads.?

 

[Braveheart]

Useful feedback.... although I'm still tempted to try new rear calipers.

I will try uprated pads on my newly grooved rear discs but still not convinced it will give me the amount of breaking that I'm looking for. To feel a bite from the rear would be a vast improvement.
Adjustable bias valve, that's another option that I will look into.
I fear however that I may take needed breaking power away from the front when all I want to do is scrub off speed as quickly as possible.
Maybe I should bite the bullet and get a set of K-power/ vttr 6 pots off Bob but there goes another 800 quid.

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

i do find on harsh braking that the rear have a tendancy to lock up first!! also it feels very unstable as the rear wants to overtake the front so tries to step out on me on a heavy straight line brake the car can go sideways:shock: i would think bigger brakes would slow the back of the car quicker and help with the stepping out as the front wont dive so much??

 

[mattytappy]

in my little experiance....dive at the front of the car (if your braking and turning properly) helps the turn in charactristics of the car and you dont want to take it away too much....i changed front pads on my wilwood 310 4 pot from a soft cmpound to a carbon based material and although the brakes were noisyer and blacked out he wheels with dust afer 2 miles the difference was a world apart....but the back brakes do need some sort of atetion as they are all pretty old hat now in terms of braking technoligy......personaly im going to re vamp mine and renwe the calipers and get some good pads in them before splashing out on new uprated calipers....and spaend the money on getting to the corners quicker:lol: and inthe hedge faster as well....:doh: :lol: :lol:

 

[Braveheart]

I'll need to get the car on a set of rollers to determine how much breaking I have at the rear.... if it's little to no braking and that's the best setup for the track then I'm there already.:shock:
I'd like to be able to scub off the speed quicker which would enable me to brake even later going into a sharp bend. For such a small car, it's fcukin heavy. More than once, my peddle has almost reached the floor going into the hairpin at knockhill and I'm planning to increase the horsepower... :der:.
I'll have a play and get some winter testing in as I develop the car. Different pads etc.
It could just be because it has such a small master cylinder and the extream wear in the front pads brings the peddle down. At the time, I had fresh 5.1 fluid, braided hoses, the brake kit was new, so maybe the new drilled / grooved disks just consumed the pads as I was breaking or I need different pads.

I have Pudneys master cylinder support bracket fitted now... should be fine:lol: ;-)

 

[Odin]

i would think bigger brakes would slow the back of the car quicker and help with the stepping out as the front wont dive so much??

This is what I found ;-) , With the better rear disc's and pads fitted it braked a lot straighter, Before the back always felt like it wanted to overtake the front, Now I can feel the back actually doing some work, And it is a lot more stable under braking 8) ;-) , So I don't really agree with the fronts having to do 80% on the work I think 35-65 would be a lot better balance.





Rob

 

[GTIR-LOZ]

i have yellow stuff pads on the rear and they are quite good think i need better discs though;-)

 

[fubar andy]

i have yellow stuff pads on the rear and they are quite good think i need better discs though;-)

They were total shíte when I used them, however they were for the front of the car.

My scientific analysis and conclusion for rear braking is:

1) Braded brake lines front the rear; I cannot stress the difference in breaking and how it feels now that I have done this. Very stable and you can feel the braking to be more powerful over the existing setup.

2) Brake pads: Mintex 1155 front and 44's for the rear. Again this is a massive improvement, which I use for track. Granted the rears don't do too much work as stated (20%) but this combination (for me) is superior to all other compounds and brands I have tried at the moment.

However this may not suit your driving or style, this is only my synopsis and what I have learnt.