still holding back

Pulsey

Pulsey

New Member
had the usual code 34 for a while now so couple weeks ago i replaced the sensor which turned out to be faulty so i sent it back and got another new one, long story short i managed to pull the connector off the loom:doh: but after only finding 1 pin in the connector i thought i would redo it all the way back to the ECU, so i now have a new knock sensor and feed from pin 27 out of the ECU. i have also put a a earth on it

after finished it i plugged the ecu back in and deleted the fault code back to 55, went out for a spin and RESULT! was pulling like a train again so theres me happy:-D

a good hour later i thought i would go grab some fuel and go for a drive as its been about 2 weeks being like this. the hesitation/holding back is now back again:doh: but im still getting code 55?

any ideas?

Im thinking of either disconnecting ECU or battery again later and see if it runs better and if it comes back or not
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
I know exactly how much fun you've been having messing about with the knock sensor.... try leaving the battery dissed overnight.
When did you last change your fuel filter.... may be a fuel issue.
 
Pulsey

Pulsey

New Member
I found the knock sensor to be fairly easy to change then again I have done it about four times lol. Takes me about 10mins I jist use a really long extenstion with a uj plus a short 12:)

Have left battery off for 10mins and it's gone again so going to see when it returns:)

No idea when filter was changed unless you can read japernese service papers? Lol
 
P

PulsarLee

New Member
Hiya,

Could anyone let me know the best place to buy a knock sensor or send me an email link please??

also, what sort of price.

Thanks,

Lee
 
Pulsey

Pulsey

New Member
replaced the fuel filter+cleaned AFM and still no luck:( also seems to be getting allot worse as its more noticeable,

i think i have narrowed it down to when its warmed up and on boost


i was told to try re-earth the afm? any other ideas? going to take all plugs out and check dizzy cap next


cheers
 
H

HenryG40

New Member
Pulsey said:
I found the knock sensor to be fairly easy to change then again I have done it about four times lol. Takes me about 10mins I jist use a really long extenstion with a uj plus a short 12:)
Click to expand...

I've now got code 34 coming up, it's so frustrating as I just want full power back again! I'm guessing the easiest way to swap the knock sensor is from underneath the car? I've just ditched the :censored: Y bracket so I guess that will make things easier.
 
S

skiddusmarkus

Active Member
I asked the question on the other site about relocating the knock sensor.Has anyon found a good alternative position for it?That way you could put it somewhere easier to get to and then wire it to the connector of the original one or maybe just to the ecu?
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I think it's where it is for a reason; someone did explain it, but I've forgotten the explanation. - Something to do with that's the cylinder that's going to knock first due to the timing?

I would have thought that somewhere like the back (i.e cylinder 4) or the other side (i.e. behind the exhaust) would be suitable alternatives for what it does, but obviously they have their own problems.
Despite what I think I might have read somewhere, maybe keeping the level the same, but moving further along the block (so that it can be reached without having to go underneath) would be a suitable compromise?
 
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