Prepping For Sprinting

[olliecast]

Hi all,
Going to be competing in spring racing events next year so i`m prepping my car over the winter and after a bit of advice / opinions on my setup.


Current spec is:
15" ssr racing wheels (with dunlop s9000 tires :?)
FMIC
remapped ecu (running 1.05 bar on standard tubby)
mongoose
filter and custom inlet hose
lowering springs on standard shocks
whiteline rear arb
poly bushes all round
Bucket seat (jon olds old one)
willan 3 point harness
16 row mocal oil cooler
evo 3 brakes with carbotec sp10 pads
got more but there not relevant

Questions:
Shall i go for a quaiffe box when my current cog box decides to die?
gt2871r or gt28rs when my standard tubby goes?
would a 4 point cage be a valid investment (will be safer but will it make a big difference to the rigidity?)
swirl pot or foam line the tank to stop the fuel surge

Cheers,
Ollie

 

[bracpan]

Lets not run before you can walk...first go an enter a sprint as the mods you have done so far will be fine and will make the car resonably competitive as it is. The one thing to double check is your belt as I am not sure if it has to be a 4 point not a 3 point harness, but saying that you can use your normal belts but would not recomend it. Have a look for a local scrutineer so he can check your car first before you enter. Saves time and disapiontment. Wait for things like Quaife and Turbo until you have done a good few events, to see if you like it or need them, then its really the forged piston route as well. I Have raced for 4 years on standard engine & turbo and come second in class in the Midland Speed Championship 3 years running. Finaly if you want to run in the Road Production class, DO NOT have a weld in cage as you will be put in the modified production class and stand no chance. I am also looking at a swirl pot but have reduced a lot of fuel surge by foam filling the tank.
Dont forget suitable hemlet and overalls look in the blue book for latest regs,
Good luck and have fun.
Phil

 

[olliecast]

Quaiffe is the best option but expensive!!!

i`ll probabilly just be nice to my current one then. 1800 quid is alot of pennies. I`ll have to break 4.5 gearboxes to cover the quaiffe cost if the standard ones cost 400 quid each!

GT2871R - it's easier to fit than the disco and a better turbo all round

done deal then. hopefully should see ~340 with 1.2 bar boost?

your better of going for a full on weld in cage like vvs irvines

hmmm, 4 or 6 point?

and as for the swirl pot have a look at pulsarbob's thread with the swirlpot with a built in fuel pump.

his car thread?

cheers ollie

 

[olliecast]

Lets not run before you can walk...first go an enter a sprint as the mods you have done so far will be fine and will make the car resonably competitive as it is. The one thing to double check is your belt as I am not sure if it has to be a 4 point not a 3 point harness, but saying that you can use your normal belts but would not recomend it. Have a look for a local scrutineer so he can check your car first before you enter. Saves time and disapiontment. Wait for things like Quaife and Turbo until you have done a good few events, to see if you like it or need them, then its really the forged piston route as well. I Have raced for 4 years on standard engine & turbo and come second in class in the Midland Speed Championship 3 years running. Finaly if you want to run in the Road Production class, DO NOT have a weld in cage as you will be put in the modified production class and stand no chance. I am also looking at a swirl pot but have reduced a lot of fuel surge by foam filling the tank.
Dont forget suitable hemlet and overalls look in the blue book for latest regs,
Good luck and have fun.
Phil

thats brilliant mate thanks.
I`ll check in the blue book like you say for the harnessess.
Do you race harewood and curbourough then? might be seeing you at the races
i know bob (think he`s a member on here) runs with the notts sprinting club in his coal powered gtir and gets real good results even compared to the 500 hp cars he`s up against

 

[olliecast]

The gt2871r is a straight swap and good for 400 horses.

Swirl pot - CLICKY

brilliant mate, thanks

 

[olliecast]

bracpan, are you just running the foam at the moment then and find it ok?

 

[STU666V]

Lets not run before you can walk...first go an enter a sprint as the mods you have done so far will be fine and will make the car resonably competitive as it is. The one thing to double check is your belt as I am not sure if it has to be a 4 point not a 3 point harness, but saying that you can use your normal belts but would not recomend it. Have a look for a local scrutineer so he can check your car first before you enter. Saves time and disapiontment. Wait for things like Quaife and Turbo until you have done a good few events, to see if you like it or need them, then its really the forged piston route as well. I Have raced for 4 years on standard engine & turbo and come second in class in the Midland Speed Championship 3 years running. Finaly if you want to run in the Road Production class, DO NOT have a weld in cage as you will be put in the modified production class and stand no chance. I am also looking at a swirl pot but have reduced a lot of fuel surge by foam filling the tank.
Dont forget suitable hemlet and overalls look in the blue book for latest regs,
Good luck and have fun.
Phil

Sound advice phil!
I raced for 2 years with standard shocks, lowered springs, strut braces, full trim and so on and did very well. You will need to watch for the regs changing? Our reg's are changing in 2010. It's either standard car for road going or you will be put in the modified production class!:roll: in my class there is a 611bhp,502bhp,480bhp,412bhp evos and a 500 odd bhp,390bhp scoobies. So you either just do a few mods and be a second or 2 off the pace or you need to spend £££s . 2010 if you remove parts,trim, put in plastic windows and so on you will need a 4 point seatbelt, msa cage, cut off switch outside the car.
As phil said best to start of your first year as a road car! I started off in road tyres for the first 2 races and changed to R888 and was about 2-3 seconds faster?
Just try it! you wont look back

 

[olliecast]

Sound advice phil!
I raced for 2 years with standard shocks, lowered springs, strut braces, full trim and so on and did very well. You will need to watch for the regs changing? Our reg's are changing in 2010. It's either standard car for road going or you will be put in the modified production class!:roll: in my class there is a 611bhp,502bhp,480bhp,412bhp evos and a 500 odd bhp,390bhp scoobies. So you either just do a few mods and be a second or 2 off the pace or you need to spend £££s . 2010 if you remove parts,trim, put in plastic windows and so on you will need a 4 point seatbelt, msa cage, cut off switch outside the car.
As phil said best to start of your first year as a road car! I started off in road tyres for the first 2 races and changed to R888 and was about 2-3 seconds faster?
Just try it! you wont look back

i can`t wait now!

 

[bracpan]

I have heard rumours about the new regs etc, thats why I am building a new engine ready. Its will hopefully let me get amounst them..he he he...specially if I can lighten the car a bit more if its in the modified class and get back on slicks
He has already modified it to much to get into the standard class...but as long as he has got the original parts he could revert back??? its worth a think as its a lot cheaper, shame I have gone to far for that.
As for runing 400bhp on a standard engine I agree its definatly possible but how long will it last? speacially as its for competition. If your going for that kind of power forge pistons are worth it as a blown engine will cost more in the long run. Plus a better box is needed with that kind of power.. As i said start of as you are, dont spend any more yet and see what happens with the classes etc.
A standad Pulsar is cabable of beating many/most other standard cars. Plus you will have a years experience.
Good luck and most of all have fun
Cheers
Phil