Lumpy idle

[B1Ad3]

Hey guys,

When the car is cold the car is very lumpy. It idles when cold at 1500 or so and when hot drops down to 900-950.

When its hot it idles a bit better however it still seems to feel like a rotory.

Do R's run rich naturally because i have a fair bit of carbon on the back of the car and im just wondering if the car is running rich it will make the car run a bit rough?

Everything is basically stock on the car except for the front mount and the exhaust. Will these make the car run rich?

Ive had people say the stock FPR may be worn out and is not keeping rail pressure and causing the car to run rich also?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[jpward]

Hey guys,

When the car is cold the car is very lumpy. It idles when cold at 1500 or so and when hot drops down to 900-950.

When its hot it idles a bit better however it still seems to feel like a rotory.

Do R's run rich naturally because i have a fair bit of carbon on the back of the car and im just wondering if the car is running rich it will make the car run a bit rough?

Everything is basically stock on the car except for the front mount and the exhaust. Will these make the car run rich?

Ive had people say the stock FPR may be worn out and is not keeping rail pressure and causing the car to run rich also?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Contradiction in terms?

Have you done the usual checks like the MAF plug and TPS plugs?
What does the fault code mode 1&2 say?
And have you checked for a vacuum leak?

 

[antgtir]

Sounds more like a potential vacuum leak to me if the car is relatively stock.

Have a look for cracks in the intercooler and splits in the piping etc.

Would be wise to check the earth on the MAF as its a simple test meter job.

All you need for the engine fault code check is a paper clip ;-)

Ant.

 

[B1Ad3]

Contradiction in terms?

Have you done the usual checks like the MAF plug and TPS plugs?
What does the fault code mode 1&2 say?
And have you checked for a vacuum leak?

MAF and TPS are plugged in and ive had a look around and double checked for VAC leaks.

Fault codes i can check for in the morning however whats fault code 1&2?

 

[jpward]

Sounds more like a potential vacuum leak to me if the car is relatively stock.

Have a look for cracks in the intercooler and splits in the piping etc.

Would be wise to check the earth on the MAF as its a simple test meter job.

All you need for the engine fault code check is a paper clip ;-)

Ant.

Best bit of kit in your R tool box :lol:

Use the paper clip in a U shape to jump the ecu OBD-1 connector plug in the top two horizontal pins which is located besid the internal fuse box.

Will then flash the engine check light which refers to certain codes as the flash rate and number of flashes changes with codes more info is in how to section and 2nd part is when it is displaying codes start engine and rev to 3.5K the engine check light should flash on/off quite fast this displays a lean/rich mixture a bit like a cheap AFR meter but only worth using to make sure an injector is stuck either open or closed.

 

[B1Ad3]

Best bit of kit in your R tool box :lol:

Use the paper clip in a U shape to jump the ecu OBD-1 connector plug in the top two horizontal pins which is located besid the internal fuse box.

Will then flash the engine check light which refers to certain codes as the flash rate and number of flashes changes with codes more info is in how to section and 2nd part is when it is displaying codes start engine and rev to 3.5K the engine check light should flash on/off quite fast this displays a lean/rich mixture a bit like a cheap AFR meter but only worth using to make sure an injector is stuck either open or closed.

Oh wow thats some really useful information about the reving over 3k.

So this test will tell me if the car is running rich or lean?

 

[jpward]

Oh wow thats some really useful information about the reving over 3k.

So this test will tell me if the car is running rich or lean?

Like i said its a rough guide because it uses a narrow band sensor so it could be saying a little bit lean or a big bit lean you would not know and lean to rich could be only a few % difference. (easy way to think of it is using an on/off light switch to light a room how a dimmer would work) ;-)

The hose that runs away from the rocker cover beside the oil cap filler, when engine idling pinch that hose revs rise? :?

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

boost leaks make you run rich, leaks on the inlet side will make it lean

 

[B1Ad3]

Like i said its a rough guide because it uses a narrow band sensor so it could be saying a little bit lean or a big bit lean you would not know and lean to rich could be only a few % difference. (easy way to think of it is using an on/off light switch to light a room how a dimmer would work) ;-)

The hose that runs away from the rocker cover beside the oil cap filler, when engine idling pinch that hose revs rise? :?

Interesting information, ill try and pinch the pipe your talking about tomorrow and see what i come up with.

I dont have any boost leaks to my knowledge as ive checked for them and the car feels really good on boost so i kinda ruled that out.

With the A/F ratio test. How do i read the signal that it gives me when i rev it. Is there a code it gives me like the 1st fault test?

Ill have a quick search but in the mean time ill ask, is there a diagram of Vac lines, Coolant lines etc that i can get my hands on and check over the next few days.

Cheers

 

[B1Ad3]

I did the fault code test and got the following.

12 AFM circuit
34 Detonation sensor circuit

In regards to the AFM, is that the whole grounding business and not having the right voltages?

The det sensor is only 20,000K's old so i dont know what to make of that.

What do you guys think?

The hose that runs away from the rocker cover beside the oil cap filler, when engine idling pinch that hose revs rise?

That line is connected to a catch can. I think all my vac lines and stuff are off. Is there a diagram for me to check them with?

 

[jpward]

I did the fault code test and got the following.

12 AFM circuit
34 Detonation sensor circuit

In regards to the AFM, is that the whole grounding business and not having the right voltages?

The det sensor is only 20,000K's old so i dont know what to make of that.

What do you guys think?



That line is connected to a catch can. I think all my vac lines and stuff are off. Is there a diagram for me to check them with?

You smoking dope :lol: the pipe i said runs away from you meaning it goes from the rocker cover towards the TB's there is a bit funny nut looking thing that is the PCV it is ont the top left corner not the bottom right when facing engine!

Right good stuff check the maf first clean contacts and also check the earth on the middle pin is good might be worth while and just apply an aditional earth to it as I think everyone has eventually done and reset the ecu codes then go for a short drive and re check codes ;-)

 

[B1Ad3]

The PCV line goes to the catch can.

Got diagram lol?

Also what do you make of the DET sensor?

 

[jpward]

The PCV line goes to the catch can.

Got diagram lol?

Also what do you make of the DET sensor?

Well if your Maf input is not working god knows what mixtures has been getting used so more likely that has throwen up the code from a bad mix like i said fix the Maf problem first chances are the DET will be fixed too.

The PCV line should not go into the catch can;



As you can see the valve is beside the Oil filler cap, the other one it connects to is slightly under the green one with the yellow dot seen?

This pipe then runs into the TB's so having it connected to a catch can would allow it to leak vaccum and cause more problems :doh:



You can see in that one the catch can with the 2 blue silicone pipes and those are the only 2 that should be used! Only variation on this would be to install a filter on the pipe that runs from beside the coil down to the intake tube and block of the pipe or make a new one in Alloy or stainless.

Hope that helps :?

 

[B1Ad3]

wow thanks for the help mate.

Yer the pipe next to the dizzy has a filter on it which is a major defect i know and the PCV pipe goes to the catch can.

Ill have a go at the AFM today and see if i can get rid of the code.

 

[jpward]

I am a bit lost why do you have the PCV breather hose running to the catch can??? and what is on the end of the pipe you removed the original one off?

 

[B1Ad3]

This was the original setup by the other guy who had the car.

Ive also been puzzled to why it was set up this way.

Well i fixed the AFM, i pulled apart all of the wiring to find one of them had broken so i soldered it up and the fault code disappeared along with the det sensor.

I got rid fo the catch can and reconnected the vac line, once i had done this i seemed to develop a noise around injector 1 and the timing chain area. If i press and hold the vac line that i just fixed the noise goes awy however if i let it breath again the noise comes back.

Also i did the fault codes a few times, half the time i would get 55 for all clear and sometimes i would get a crank angle sensor code, anything to worry about?

Apart from that the car is running much better. Alot more throtle response and boost seems to come on much nicer now.

Hopefully with fixing the AFM my fuel bill will decrease.

The rough idle seems to have decreased a little however i think i might be looking into the rough idle a bit to much due to the solid mounts i have and the added vibration through the car.

 

[jpward]

Glad we are getting some were at last :lol:

rough idle to me would be car just about to stall ie idle limit too low or idle haunting when it goes up and down on its own. If you think its vibration then dont worry about it try owning a big single motorbike!

On the mystery noise when you connect the pipe back up did the revs change when you gave it a squeeze?

 

[youngsyp]

I got rid fo the catch can and reconnected the vac line, once i had done this i seemed to develop a noise around injector 1 and the timing chain area. If i press and hold the vac line that i just fixed the noise goes awy however if i let it breath again the noise comes back.

Sounds like your PCV is kaput !
That might also explain other things as, that is a one way valve so, shouldn't leak vacuum !
Bin it, along with all the associated inley manifold pipe work. You don't need it anyway !
You can block the PCV hole with a 3/8 BSP threaded blanking plug, from any plumbers !

Also i did the fault codes a few times, half the time i would get 55 for all clear and sometimes i would get a crank angle sensor code, anything to worry about?

Keep an eye on it but, if it's intermitant, it's probably a dodgy connection !

 

[B1Ad3]

Glad we are getting some were at last :lol:

rough idle to me would be car just about to stall ie idle limit too low or idle haunting when it goes up and down on its own. If you think its vibration then dont worry about it try owning a big single motorbike!

On the mystery noise when you connect the pipe back up did the revs change when you gave it a squeeze?

The rough idle per say its the car kinda rocking back and forward if i was to dramatise it and the exhaust note changes slightly. Might just be the raw power of the rnn14 ay?

As for the PCV pipe if i squeeze it no the revs have not changed and the revs have not changed with the change of the plumbing. When the piping is squeezed the noise goes so yer im thinking the PCV valve has seen better days.

Is this a spesific valve to the rnn14 or are all sr20 the same?

 

[B1Ad3]

Sounds like your PCV is kaput !
That might also explain other things as, that is a one way valve so, shouldn't leak vacuum !
Bin it, along with all the associated inley manifold pipe work. You don't need it anyway !
You can block the PCV hole with a 3/8 BSP threaded blanking plug, from any plumbers !

I thought this valve released pressure under the rocker cover?

Keep an eye on it but, if it's intermitant, it's probably a dodgy connection !

Where can i find the connector for this and i will check all the wiring going to it and see if one of them has become loose and or broken.

It is an intermitant fault so a loose wire could be the answer.