Injector Question

antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Im not 100% sure but are the injectors classed as a consumable and if so what is the age and or mileage you are to replace them?

As far as i know they have never been replaced on my R and im concerned that if they are supposed to be there may be a break down of one or more.:?

Any feedback will be appreciated, unless of course its just crap lol:lol:

Ant.
 
A

ashills

Active Member
they should last age of the car no problem sometimes one may fail but most will last a long time
you can get them cleaned and tested but that would probably cost more than a 2nd hand set
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Periodically run some injector cleaner through the engine though with modern petrols this is becoming less important.

I had bought a 2nd hand set of 550cc that had been tested and cleaned. From the tests you could see one was flowing 10% less fuel than the others before cleaning.

Aside from that, its whatever everyone else has already said
 
PaulB

PaulB

Member
Ive got a lovely set of used 550cc injectors for sale if anyones interested.

£120 delivered (Y)
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
With this question this shouldnt really be in the maintenance section but im gonna ask anyway lol:lol:

Besides a potentially blocked or obstructed injector what else other than the norm plugs leads and rotor arm / dissy cap cause a small hesitency or holding back effect on moderate throttle?

I replaced the plugs and closed the gap to what i had it prior to thew replacement but i can still feel this.

I haven't replaced the leads and dissy / rotor arm since i got the car which is approximately 3 years or so, would you suggest a change of these items?

Jim: I have run some injector cleaner through the R but i must admit i didnt feel any difference apart from the nagging thought in my head of "i must do that" vanished lol:lol: As mentioned i closed the gaps on the plugs but still experience the same, any other suggestions other than the ones ive mentioned?

Cheers for the comments guys.

Ant.
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Lol funny you should say that:lol:

I just like to catch any potential problem with the R before it gets dtremental thats all, what can i say im a perfectionist lol:roll: :lol:

Ant.
 
S

scottyd

Member
Not being funny or anything, but sometimes you do need to feed a little speed to your car, take it all the way through the revs a couple of times in a single session then see how it runs after that.
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
leads, plugs and worn dizzy cap are the main causes of holding back etc due to very high or low kv readings.
change them parts and your problem will more than likely dissapear.
 
D

deslynam

Guest
Lambda sensor not switching properly can cause that, I had it on light throttle and it was most notable when pootling along the motorway & accelerating gently rather than full-on gunning it (like usual).
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
deslynam said:
Lambda sensor not switching properly can cause that, I had it on light throttle and it was most notable when pootling along the motorway & accelerating gently rather than full-on gunning it (like usual).
Click to expand...
This is when it seems to happen. Through no particular gear, if you lightly run through that gear with the accelerator you can feel the car hesitate / hold back slightly. When you found out what it was on your R did you change the Lambda Sensor? Did it remove the problem?

I will probably have a check over the dissy cap and rotor arm etc at the weekend to make sure its nothing simple like that.

With regards to the fuel filter, i change that every year so i doubt its that as the symptoms were around even before this dirty fuel crisis (not that id touch anything but Shell V Power lol)

Are there any other sensors that could produce these symptoms? Just for information i carried out an ECU check and its A OK! is the Lambda Sensor part of this check? If not it sounds like it could be something like this, cheers Des;-)

Ant.
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I've got a complete ignition system (Cap, arm, leads, plugs, amp, coil) all only a couple of years old and known to work you can borrow if you want.

There's many other things that could cause a misfire but ruling out your ignition is a good starting point.

The lambda sensor can be worn and still show no fault code. An emissions check at the MOT is a good way to tell if your sensor is okay.

Failing that, fit an AEM AFR for £200 so at anytime you can tell whether your engine is working correctly.
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
campbellju said:
I've got a complete ignition system (Cap, arm, leads, plugs, amp, coil) all only a couple of years old and known to work you can borrow if you want.

There's many other things that could cause a misfire but ruling out your ignition is a good starting point.

The lambda sensor can be worn and still show no fault code. An emissions check at the MOT is a good way to tell if your sensor is okay.

Failing that, fit an AEM AFR for £200 so at anytime you can tell whether your engine is working correctly.
Click to expand...
Funny you should say that as i recently had my MOT done and it failed on the emissions, CO to high, so as a temporary fix i put the cat back on and it passed but i was wary then that it was just covering a problem up so this again may end up being a very likely reason;-)

Does anyone have a Lambda sensor (New) for sale or know how much Nissan the stealers charge for a new one?

Cheers guys, great advice and spot on with the symptoms etc:thumbsup:

Thanks for the offer with the bits Jim, i may end up taking you up on it lol:lol:

Ant.
 
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