How to Adjust the Clutch Biting Point

hmmm

Member
All credit to whoever thought of this.

You can adjust the clutch release from inside the car on the back of the pedal. Take a 12mm spanner with you then stick your head under the dash. On the clutch pedal you should see the rod going to the clutch cylinder and a lock nut on the rod. Crack that nut loose and you should be able to turn the rod and wind it out to give it a bit more length. I found that using a Monkey Wrench easiest. Adjust until you are happy with the bite point then tighten up the locking nut.

It's also a good idea for people who think they've dodgy syncros in the box to check the release point of the clutch on the pedal travel. If your clutch bites just off the floor and your gears crutch, it could be that the pedal just needs adjusting.

 

PaulB

Member
how the bloomin` eck are you supposed to get to this with a monkey wrench !!

The sterring column and everything is in the way!!
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
use a pair of pliers and a 12mm spanner you can get in there with them!ive got visions of you crawling in there with a 2ft pair of stilsons, hangigng upside down with your ar$e in the air lol
 

stumo

Active Member
You should adjust it so that there is about an inch (25.4mm) of free play* movement at the pedal.

*freeplay- if you move the pedal with your hand the first bit of movement when pressing down the pedal there should be almost no resistance, ie "freeplay", once the freeplay has been taken up then you have to start pressing hard.
 

PaulB

Member
ive got visions of you crawling in there with a 2ft pair of stilsons, hangigng upside down with your ar$e in the air lol
yup, pretty much !!

Ive just managed it with long nose pliers, the car feels so much more driveable, pain in the **** with the pedal on the floor !!
 

stumo

Active Member
just make sure you've got some freeplay on the pedal, if you don't then it will be just like keeping your foot on the pedal.......
 
A

AJ4

Guest
just make sure your pedal boxed isn't cracked to begin with as its a very common problem and is usually the cause of the pedal being on the floor in the first place ;)
 

houghy_1

Member
Shouldnt there now be a link for steve pudneys clutch pedal support brackets???:p ;-)

Just a thought.

Number 9,560(exageration btw) or whatever he's up to now:lol:

Matt
 
P

petebann

Guest
this is excellent advice. just bought a gti-r and the gears were slightly 'crunchy' especially first gear at lights but after pulling over and going through them, found that i just needed to almost push the clutch pedal through the floor and all gears engaged lovely hehe! A bit of pedal adjustment it is then....!
 

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
houghy_1 said:
Shouldnt there now be a link for steve pudneys clutch pedal support brackets???:p ;-)

Just a thought.

Number 9,560(exageration btw) or whatever he's up to now:lol:

Matt
1067 at last count ;-)
 

Trondelond

Active Member
Time to revive an old thread. My biting point seems to be too low for my liking. I've bled the system, and I have the correct amount of freeplay as well. But I'm still not happy with the biting point.

If I screw the rod further out, and move the "stopper bolt" back a little to still have freeplay, should this raise the biting point? Or will I just move the pedal further out and still have to press the pedal as far as I do now to disengage it?
 

Trondelond

Active Member
..ooor.. if I move it further in, that would lead to more fluid being drawn into the cylinder, this giving more pressure on the clutch? But would this at the same time give the effect of driving with my foot on the clutch pedal? Can't decide which is right.
 

Trip

New Member
If i unsersdand it corerectly. The more you move the rod inwards (towards the firewall) the more early is the engagment point. Too much and you will end up with the effect of driving with foot on clutch and ending up frying the clutch.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Yes... so less free play = higher biting point and vice versa; that makes sense to me.
The less free play, the quicker the clutch is disengaged... the more free play, the more it takes to get the clutch to release.
 

Trondelond

Active Member
It does make sense, but I\m also thinking that this will lower the clutch pedal, and my reason for adjusting the biting point is that I don't want to extend my leg as much as I do now.
I'm goiing to have to do some research regarding getting my seat lower, methinks. That would help the situation.
 

DJU1988

New Member
It does make sense, but I\m also thinking that this will lower the clutch pedal, and my reason for adjusting the biting point is that I don't want to extend my leg as much as I do now.
I'm goiing to have to do some research regarding getting my seat lower, methinks. That would help the situation.
just a guess, but if the piston isnt fully retracted then could you not wind it off which would lower your clutch fluid level? top it back up and then you'd engage higher up?
 
Top