Clutch bite point screws (samellio etc... help!)

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Stoned

Guest
As per the instructions in the post 'HELP!!! - Won't change gear at high rpm...' I went out to adjust the clutch bite point on my car since it's always been too low and I often get problems selecting gears

I got right under the pedals (very rushy with your feet in the air and your head in the footwell! :D ) and found to my confusion where there should be 2 nuts there is only 1...

The nut I have removes the lock so you could then turn the shaft, but where is the second nut that allows you to adjust the screw length itself?

I took some photo's so you can see what I mean and hopefully tell me where I am going wrong



As you can see, only one nut visable



From right underneath. As you can see, I can losen that nut, but then how do you actually turn that screw :?

Any ideas?
 
A

AJ4

Guest
this is from real hazy memory of when I fixed my clutch, but could quite possibly be from a completely different car ! :oops:

If I remember correctly, the other end of that bolt is a fork that attaches to the pedal. You have to rotate the fork ( wind it up and down the bolt ) to adjust the length of throw.

You have loosen the nut, take the pin out of the fork that holds it onto the pedal and release the fork ( let it drop down off the pedal ) so you can turn it. When its the right length, you push it back into place and put the pin back through. Then tighten the nut back up. I think its only a circlip holding the pin in....

Remember when you tighten the nut back up it has a tendency to twist the fork, if you twist it too much it rubs on the pedal too much. I think I jammed a screwdriver up it to stop it turning while I did the nut up.

Someone please correct me if this is complete borrocks..
 
A

AJ4

Guest
and if I also remember right, its a right bitch pushing the rod back far enough so it clears the pedal :D
 

Shaun

New Member
:D Hi mate,i did this to Mozza's 'R' not so long ago 8) There is only one nut,this as you say is to unlock the rod,the adjustment is in the rod its self,all you have to do is to turn the rod so that almost all the thread is on the same side as the locknut,dont forget to leave a couple of threads in the silver fork,and then re-lock the nut up to the fork 8)
Editted just to say that you dont have to take the pedal appart to adjust it,just unlock the nut and turn the rod with some thin nose molegrips or the like 8) Hope this helps mate :!:
 
S

Stoned

Guest
Wicked :D

Cheers lads. I'll give this a go tomorrow night then 8)
 
J

japerformance

Guest
Right the rod that the nut is locking can rotate you see the part on the rod that has splines get your fingers on it and you can turn it by hand if not use pliers it will turn you do not need to remove the fork . you will have to get the manual to get the proper measurements for free play and pedal hieght if you do not know the measurements do not mess with it unless you know what you are doing or you can cause the clutch to wear out fast and or wreck your release bearing. pm me and i'll give you my number and you can call me and i can explain it over the phone for you.

cheers
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
Japerformance did mine for me and its all working perfectly again... :D



Rishi
 
A

AJ4

Guest
Makes sense - I think when I did mine the plunger in the master cylinder was sprung back too hard and I couldn't turn the bolt, I think thats why I took the fork off. Will use pliers next time :D
 
J

japerformance

Guest
stoned i would highly suggest you dont mess with it until you are 100% you know what your doing you can mess the clutch up very fast if it isnt set right
 
S

Stoned

Guest
Cheers for the number mate. I'll give you a call when i'm ready to go :D
 

antgtir

New Member
japerformance said:
......... you can cause the clutch to wear out fast and or wreck your release bearing.
If you over adjust this then would it cause the clutch to start to judder after 20k?

I had my clutch fitted by a garage, never did any standing launchs etc just normal driving however in traffic and after a few k's it started to whine then after 20k it started to judder on downshifting, would this be some of the symptoms you would get from an over adjusted pedal?

If this is so then i shall be checking the pedal after the clutch is fitted, yep thats right another lol :roll: Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Ant.
 

Shaun

New Member
japerformance said:
stoned i would highly suggest you dont mess with it until you are 100% you know what your doing you can mess the clutch up very fast if it isnt set right
:? How can it mess the clutch up :?: :? All thats being adjusted is the length and throw of the mastercylinder piston,i.e the longer it is the further it goes in when the pedal is pressed, more fluid is sent to the slavecylinder pushing the clutch arm further :wink: How can this wear the clutch faster :?: :? Is it like putting heat range 6 plugs into a heat range 8 'R' :?: :lol:
 
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SunnyGTIR

Guest
Shaun said:
japerformance said:
stoned i would highly suggest you dont mess with it until you are 100% you know what your doing you can mess the clutch up very fast if it isnt set right
:? How can it mess the clutch up :?: :? All thats being adjusted is the length and throw of the mastercylinder piston,i.e the longer it is the further it goes in when the pedal is pressed, more fluid is sent to the slavecylinder pushing the clutch arm further :wink: How can this wear the clutch faster :?: :? Is it like putting heat range 6 plugs into a heat range 8 'R' :?: :lol:
I suppose if its not releasing properly causing the clutch to slip then it would wear faster would it not?
 

Shaun

New Member
SunnyGTIR said:
Shaun said:
japerformance said:
stoned i would highly suggest you dont mess with it until you are 100% you know what your doing you can mess the clutch up very fast if it isnt set right
:? How can it mess the clutch up :?: :? All thats being adjusted is the length and throw of the mastercylinder piston,i.e the longer it is the further it goes in when the pedal is pressed, more fluid is sent to the slavecylinder pushing the clutch arm further :wink: How can this wear the clutch faster :?: :? Is it like putting heat range 6 plugs into a heat range 8 'R' :?: :lol:
I suppose if its not releasing properly causing the clutch to slip then it would wear faster would it not?
I can understand that if you adjust it too far then you would end up pushing the piston against the pedal stop if you managed to take all of the slack out of the pedal,resulting in the piston holding the clutch partially disengaged,but if you have done one there just isnt enough adjustment :wink:
 
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SunnyGTIR

Guest
Shaun said:
SunnyGTIR said:
Shaun said:
japerformance said:
stoned i would highly suggest you dont mess with it until you are 100% you know what your doing you can mess the clutch up very fast if it isnt set right
:? How can it mess the clutch up :?: :? All thats being adjusted is the length and throw of the mastercylinder piston,i.e the longer it is the further it goes in when the pedal is pressed, more fluid is sent to the slavecylinder pushing the clutch arm further :wink: How can this wear the clutch faster :?: :? Is it like putting heat range 6 plugs into a heat range 8 'R' :?: :lol:
I suppose if its not releasing properly causing the clutch to slip then it would wear faster would it not?

I can understand that if you adjust it too far then you would end up pushing the piston against the pedal stop if you managed to take all of the slack out of the pedal,resulting in the piston holding the clutch partially disengaged,but if you have done one there just isnt enough adjustment :wink:
When I changed my clutch and gearbox last week, started the engine and had no drive to the wheels. Turned out that the master cylinder needed adjusting as the clutch was always in.
 

Shaun

New Member
:wink: OK point taken :wink: Easy way round it then :!: When you adjust the biting point of your clutch on the pedal,turn the bar a couple of times and then re-try the biting point :!: If it is not high enough then REPEAT the process :!: :D As you do not need to pay a garage mega bucks to do this job :wink:

Is this ok now :?: :wink:
 
S

samellio

Guest
Shaun,
I'm the proud new owner of mozza's car 8) The clutch is doing great and must have been adjusted to perfection as it never slipped once on the 1/4 mile :wink: :wink: (it's going like stink btw :twisted: only running 1.2bar but getting 109mph down the 1/4 :D )
 

Shaun

New Member
samellio said:
Shaun,
I'm the proud new owner of mozza's car 8) The clutch is doing great and must have been adjusted to perfection as it never slipped once on the 1/4 mile :wink: :wink: (it's going like stink btw :twisted: only running 1.2bar but getting 109mph down the 1/4 :D )
:D 8) Sweet mate 8) :D Thanks for the kind words 8) I heard it was a bit of a MONSTER now mate 8) Also heard you might be down our way soon :?: If so we will have to hook up for a chat,would be nice to see what she goes like now as she used to shift abit before 8) 8)


:D SEE :D .............I do know what i'm doin :wink:
 
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