Brake hose advice/help

PobodY

PobodY

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Due to the frozen handbrake mechanism, I've got one of the rear callipers off at the moment. - I've got new braided hoses to go on.

I've got two problems that I need some tips/advice on:
1) What's the best way to get the bleed nipple loose (and if I've rounded it trying to simply use force, will somewhere like Halfrauds be able to sell me a replacement)?
2) What's the best way to get the existing rubber hose off the metal brake line in the wheel arch? - This one I'm more concerned about because if I knacker the nut I don't know how to repair/replace it without cutting the pipe and putting a new end on (which requires tools I don't have).

I've tried to copiously coat them with WD40.
I've tried to use some heat (although I've only got a little gas soldering iron, so it's not much head really). - I can always use this as an excuse to buy a new one, but I'm concerned about getting things glowing red with a fuel tank right behind them.

I've got a bit of time because the car is currently SORN, but I was aiming to get it back on the road and taxed for the rolling road day at the end of the month.

- I may also have a full set of braided lines for sale soon. After buying the set on teh interweb, it looks like I also won the runner-up prise in Banzai for a full set from HEL. :doh:
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

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Use plenty of wd40 or similar and let it soak for a while . If it's a bulkhead type fixing (can't remember off hand) use a spanner on the hose end and one on the fixing to hold it in place while you try and undo the hose. Brake spanners of the right size will be better than normal open ended spanners as they have more contact area.
Must be a tuff bleed nipple to round it, I've sheared them off on other cars in the past without even trying)
 
PobodY

PobodY

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Thanks for the quick response!

I was trying really hard not to shear it, but I've done a pretty good job of getting it out and making it round. I'll see if I can get some new ones because I don't like my chance of getting this done up again... worst case I can leave the old hoses in now.

I'll put a picture of the damage I did up a little later.

The old rubber hoses seem to be round and attached to the bulkhead, but my new ones have a proper head on them. - I'll go on the hunt for a proper 10mm brake spanner too then.
 
PobodY

PobodY

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Is a split steering rack gaiter an MOT failure? - I think it is.
Where is the best place to get a new one; eBay?
What's the best way to change it; will it just pull over the track rod end?
 
Dangerous Dave

Dangerous Dave

Active Member
Yep your right with the mot my old fruit,

You can pick them up off ebay for £5 ive seen one on there today.!

End i took the track rod end off when i did mine as i didnt want to shaft the new one.

Hope this helps my little white R driver.
 
P

PUL54R

New Member
I may have a couple of spare ones, if I have your welcome to them, I will have a look at work tomorrow.
 
williams

williams

New Member
use a socket and ratchet to crack the nipples off, alot better than a spanner imo. once you've got it loose you can then use a spanner.
 
PobodY

PobodY

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williams said:
use a socket and ratchet to crack the nipples off, alot better than a spanner imo. once you've got it loose you can then use a spanner.
Click to expand...
That's what I did in the end, but it still rounded-off one of the nipples.

Am I right in assuming that the longer of the two hose sets goes at the front? - They don't have the same mounting brackets as the original hoses, which makes it hard to be sure that I'm putting them on the right callipers (I figure putting the new hose on the calliper will be the best way to keep crap out of it until I get get the lines off the shell).
 
G

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
PobodY said:
That's what I did in the end, but it still rounded-off one of the nipples.

Am I right in assuming that the longer of the two hose sets goes at the front? - They don't have the same mounting brackets as the original hoses, which makes it hard to be sure that I'm putting them on the right callipers (I figure putting the new hose on the calliper will be the best way to keep crap out of it until I get get the lines off the shell).
Click to expand...
George AKA (mister over kill) are you still using that monster size ratchet on 10 mm nuts :lol:;-)
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

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PobodY said:
What's the best way to change it; will it just pull over the track rod end?
Click to expand...
Count the threads visible with the lock nut and track rod end in place, then remove them as the small hole in the boot will struggle to go over them and you don't want to rip the new one. Then just put it all back together so you have the same amount of thread visible and your tracking should still be the same.
 
PobodY

PobodY

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geoff pine said:
George AKA (mister over kill) are you still using that monster size ratchet on 10 mm nuts :lol:;-)
Click to expand...
You know me well... :twisted:
Actually it's a different ratchet because I broke the last one.

If the longer one goes at the back, I'd better swap them back over before it's too late.
 
M

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Yep longer ones on the back ;-) There should be 2 line locators on the rears as opposed to only one on the front too.
 
PobodY

PobodY

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I've got my new brake spanner... but I think the unions are now so damaged that I can't get the damn thing on them. - Time to consider cutting the ends off, putting a new union on, and flaring the ends?

I'd need a new tool for that, but I'm not going to let the stupid thing defeat me! - Will a Halfrauds special do the job, or is it a steel line (and therefore requires better tooling)?
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
george, firstly, WD40 is shite when it come to anything more than de-watering anything (ie it's only good for ign systems)

Go and buy some Wurth Rost-off Ice, it's the danglies for making stuck threads unstuck. Use lots of it as it has a freezing action which helps unsticking the threads.

ALWAYS use proper brake pipe spanners.

Broken/rounded nipples are a bastid, use copious amounts of the previously mentioned rost-off. then use a pair of mole grips with good teeth, failing that you could take them to an engineers to get them to take them out.

if the rubber pipes are stuck to the metal brake pipes then again, use lots of rost off, make sure you stop the pipes from twisting, use proper brake pipe spanners.

You could use lots of heat on the metal end of the rubber hose as it's steel and you're not arsed about damaging the rubber hose. you can get the part pretty frikkin hot as you'll be changing the brake fluid after fitting the new hoses.

If you think you will break/damage the metal pipe (which is a bitch of a job to change) you can try cutting a slot in the metal end of the rubber pipe with a hacksaw, try to get as deep as you can get without damaging the threads on the metal pipe. this will weaken the metal end and with copious use of the rost-off it should undo.

gimme a ring if you need any more ideas
 
PobodY

PobodY

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I've got one done, but I'll get some Rost-off tomorrow to free the rear one... then I'll need to move the car so I can get to the other side.
 
PobodY

PobodY

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Staff member
Well I had a couple of versions of this conversation:
Me: I'd like some Rost-off.
Salesperson: Exit Rust?
No "Rost-off" it's like penetrating oil.
WD40?
No. I've been told that's a water dispersant, which is why it's "WD" 40.
I don't think we sell anything like that.

Despite saying they didn't sell what I was after, I ended-up with "Shock and Unlock" from Halfrauds... and what do you know? It bloody worked!
So that's the passenger's side done. I didn't really think this through because I'll have to bleed these two before I can move the car to get at the other two... then bleed the whole lot again.

To add insult to injury I can't find the pads I took out (which looked like they still had meat on them), so the "Blue Stuff" pads have gone in the rear; I figure they'll be OK because the front does most of the work.

Maybe I will have this car back on the road for the dyno day after all.
 
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