Boost Leaks - How To Test

CanadianR

Member
Well when I first got my car, I wanted to make sure that all the boost (stock boost) was getting to the engine, and none getting wasted or lost through bad connections. So a friend showed me his boost leak tester. Basically what you do is take off the cone filter (works really well when you have a cone or pod filter adapter, or any 3" tube before or as soon as possible after the turbo) and then you put this thing on, tighten the clamp and pressurize the system to your desired level of boost. (1 bar, 20 psi, whatever you are going to be running). Then you listen for leaks.

Here's how its made. Credit to some DSM guy somewhere in the states.

Parts Needed:
  • A 4 inch long piece of 2.5" O.D. (outside diameter) hose. (I used some radiator hose I got at NAPA)
  • 1.5" I.D. (inside diameter) PVC end cap.
  • 2 band clamps that will fit around the 2.5" pipe above.
  • A valve stem (I used the rubber type you press in)
Note that if you have a larger turbo, the sizes of the end cap and hose may need to be larger in order to fit the turbo inlet.


To assemble, just put everything together as shown.



To get the valve stem in, I had to drill a hole in the PVC cap.
To use it, just remove the intake pipe from your turbocharger inlet, and attach this in its' place.
Now you need to hook something up to the valve stem to pressurize the intake so you can listen for leaks. I use a 7 gallon air tank I got from Walmart, I just fill it up with air at the local gas station. You can also use a simple bike pump.
If you have a manual boost controller hooked up, you might want to plug off its' intake hose, as they leak a lot of air, making it hard to pinpoint the real leak.
Pressurize the system, and listen all over for leaks. Make sure you or a friend listens under the bumper too, wherever there is IC piping.
A leak will be obvious, they make a loud hissing sound.
You might want to have a friend check out your boost gauge while you are pressurizing things, to make sure you don't put too much pressure on things. (20 psi should be safe, or whatever you run safely for boost).
 

MORF114

Active Member
You can use a air micrometer from a spray gun which has adjustable air flow and gauge to how many psi and will be less prone to popping out the pvc top for high pressure tests as long as its secured properly.
you will need access to a airline with the correct fitting on which isnt suitable for everyone.

I have a link to another one someone did its quite a good one ill try and find it.
 

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olliecast

Active Member
sorry to dig this up but whats the diameter of the inlet on the standard gtir turbo then as it only quotes the outer diameter of the hose and not the inner (and the inner fits around the inlet flange). is it 1.5" (it says the inside diameter of the end cap should be this but i can`t see how the id of the cap would make any difference)
 

Animaldaz

Active Member
ext diameter of the oe turbo inlet is about 53-54mm iirc, i managed to squeeze a 51mm silicone coupler on though.
 

keastygtir

Well-Known Member
It just wouldnt presurise, my dad thought that the air would escape via the valves so I blocked up the inlet manifold with the same results
 

CanadianR

Member
Put the tester on the compressor inlet on the turbo. Make sure you don't open the throttle. If the system doesn't pressurize, then find where the air is escaping. That's the boost leak.
 

CanadianR

Member
If you put the tester onto the metal induction pipe at the turbo, then it will work properly. The pipe from the filter to the turbo inlet doesn't see any pressure aside from the flow rate that the turbo will suck and compress (which is negligible).

Put the tester on the metal induction pipe right at the turbo to test the pressurized pipe run. Alternatively, if you still can't find the leaks using this method, some shops will do a "smoke test" http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-general/482156-boost-leak-test-w-smoke-machine.html.
 
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