track rod queries

CruiseGTi-R

Member
Anybody know whether the number of threads showing on the track rod arm are meant to be the same both sides? (some cars are, some aren't I think?)

What is the connection of the track rod arm at the other end (where its covered by the boot), is it threaded or a non-threaded capture of some sort?

Is there also a recommended embedment length into the ball cup/bumpsteer end?
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
CruiseGTi-R said:
Anybody know whether the number of threads showing on the track rod arm are meant to be the same both sides? (some cars are, some aren't I think?)

What is the connection of the track rod arm at the other end (where its covered by the boot), is it threaded or a non-threaded capture of some sort?

Is there also a recommended embedment length into the ball cup/bumpsteer end?
1. The number of threeads showing should be similar but are rarely the same on older cars as the toe has been adjusted many times.

2. Would have to check the manual. :oops:

3. Err, not sure if I understood correctly, do you mean how much "thread" should be showing? I just centred the wheel and set the toe up. The amount of thread showing (Embedment??) was what it was
 

CruiseGTi-R

Member
I knew you'd help, being a handling chappy and all :wink:

Having dialled in the same camber both front sides the toe was out and so steering wheel was over to one side.

Having centred the steering wheel I adjusted toe, but the threads are a tad different side to side, but if this is ok then cool (its also probably a function of my diy camber adjustment not being bang on side to side).

I was just worried about having enough thread inside the track rod ends on the side where I had to wind it out. I'm sure I have, but would be nice to check without taking off the track rod end and count threads etc :roll:

Would be interested to know how you check your toe DIY too??
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
You've done it about right. Like I said in the last post, on older cars were the passenger wheel keeps hitting kerbs and pot holes, its often been adjusted more on one side than the other.

My steering wheel was offest from straight by a degree or two when I started.

I last setup the toe by eye on the R :oops: :oops: (But 3000miles since last changed and no uneven wear of obvious shakes ay high speed)
I was previously using a garage at £15 a go but as I've been playing more it became impractical. I looked at buying a toe gauge until I saw the price and am building my own. Just finished the drive so the gargae is still full of mixers and pick axes etc :(

Dead simple, 4 pieces of 2m strong aluminium angle from B&Q at £5 each.

4 pieces of small wheel sized MDF or ply wood (Left over wood work but about £10)

Measure the centre of the angle and wood and bolt them securly together.
Securley tie with string each wood plate on to each wheel.

Use a tape measure to check the distance between the aluminium arms and make then the same.

Or use a little trig to work out the angle of the toe you require

Make up 4 sets to give 4 wheel alignment :D. You could measure the difference in wheel offset is the same on both sides but I'd bet you could tell by eye anyway over 4m in total :wink:
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
CruiseGTi-R said:
I knew you'd help, being a handling chappy and all :wink:
In the valley of the blind, the one eyed man is king :wink: The more I learn, the less I realise I knew.
 
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