This is taken from the sticky thread in the general forum
Engine: - The Pulsar is a tough little nut because there’s a timing chain keeping that 2.0-litre lump together. If oil pressure is slow to build up, it probably means a worn crank even though its not yet rattly. A rattly top end may mean that the cams need re-shimming. At £16 per shim, that could be a bill for £300+ before you start on the labour charges. Ensure that the engine runs smoothly and is mechanically quiet. If it’s not, walk away and find another. If the car does not rev above 3000rpm there could be an engine management or sensor problem. Modified engines are not uncommon, and might mean trouble unless the work has been carried out to a high standard. An after-market dump valve is an obvious give away, as is a boost pressure over 0.7bar. About 280bhp is reckoned to be the safe maximum for continued reliability, but only if the fuelling is set up right. Hopefully, there is supporting documentation as to what has been done and by whom. Play safe and always use Optimax or BP Ultimate with an import or modified example, octane booster may also be a plus.
Expect about 200+miles to a tank (24mpg ish) if you drive reasonably steady, down to well under 100 if you drive it hard all the time.
Hope that lot helps all you newcomers looking to buy an R! Below are some brief differences between the various models!
Hope it helps
and sorry to hear about the shims , seems like its quite costly! hope it goes well
