Head work......

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Edd

Guest
Right the head needs sorting on my R so going to buy a spare head and get that completely rebuilt.
Parts on my list are as follows :-

Jun valve springs
Jun retainers
Tomei valve guides
Jun 272 cams
tomei headgasket
greddy rocker stopper kit

i already have a fully rebuilt ported n polished head and not sure whether to use that and fit these bits or rebuild another head.

is all that lot good enough to rev to 8000rpm??
and anything vital i've missed out

think i might replace the cam cap end bolts aswell ;)
 
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robinsongtir

Guest
I would say yes but wouldn't use those parts specifically.IMO JUN parts are just not worth the extra money when you can get Tomei parts cheaper don't be fooled by the big name part company.If you decide on JUN and the valve springs and retainers what lift are you gonna go for? If you are gonna use manily JUN parts I would get the headgasket as well and the valve guides because you may find the parts you get are only compatible with the same make.Do you know anyone who has used the Greddy stopper kit haven't seen anyone use one on an R and how well it will fit? a lot of people are going with Tomei ones.Intresting what peoples opinions will be on this subject there hasn't been that much talked about regarding head parts
editted to say Forgot to add some vernier pulleys would work well on top of of your list
 

cmng

New Member
I was wondering as well

i looking for tomei 260 lift 12 cam and Jun cam as well
but overall Jun cam package look cheaper

any suggestion for head work as well??

what in my mind is only cam and valve spring
but prefer something for extra hp since i not gaining some big hp
no interested for titanium retainer, so one since super expensive
just some extra power at top end and mid range without changing to many thing
 

Websnowbo

New Member
Edd said:
Tomei valve guidesis
Why valve guides? They are a complete cunt to fit and cant see the point unless they are brass or the valves you are using are a bigger stem.

Edd said:
is all that lot good enough to rev to 8000rpm??
Whats the bore and stroke of your 2.2?
 
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Edd

Guest
i'm trying to find out exact details of compression etc on my engine, just hope some one is helpful and will tell me :wink:

I only chose JUN as that was all that listed on greenline :oops:

if tomei do all of the springs and guides i'll buy them instead, i already have the greddy rocker stopper kit, it just needs a bit of altering and it'll fit fine :D

I was thinking about vernier pulleys but slighly put off by peoples comments of how hard it is to tune them especially as my car will primarily be set up on the road :oops:
 

Si..

New Member
i wouldnt bother with the cam pulley's the bloke whose done all my work's got them and has found after swinging them in different positions the car's at its best in the std position. :D
 
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AJ4

Guest
what about valves ? Are you going to use standard ones, or get a hold of some penny-on-a-stick sodium filled jobs ?

Haven't seen anybody advertise flowed valves for our head yet, so looks like they will be going to the local machine shop to get turned down :D
 
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Edd

Guest
well mr spence was looking into titanium valves so need to have words with him :wink:

but as far as im aware no-one does any non standard valves :?:
 
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AJ4

Guest
skiddusmarkus said:
The valves are sodium filled already.
Ah, nice one, I thought they were just solid ones. Has anybody tried back cutting them ? Just curious because I was thinking of sending mine off to get back cut, angles ground etc.
 

zia

Active Member
fitting bigger valves would not really be worth while as the sr20 has fairly big valves to start with, the hassle of changing combustion chamber shape and valve seat dia etc.

zia
 
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AJ4

Guest
I didn't think there would be any more room in the head to put larger valves in :oops: If you use a few rough formulas the valves work out to be too big as it is...
 
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paulrandy

Guest
Waisting the valve stems isnt usually a good idea with sodium filled valves as they tend snap too easily.
 
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AJ4

Guest
paulrandy said:
Waisting the valve stems isnt usually a good idea with sodium filled valves as they tend snap too easily.
Ah, cheers, that was what I was trying to find out 8)
 
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pschurr

Guest
My engine builder and I have decided to toss the sodium-filled exhaust valves, and run stainless steel 1mm oversize on the exhaust side. The inlet will remain with factory valves but with a radius cut and flow behind it.

He says he can then widen the exhaust port that little extra, and we think it'll help ventilation and possibly spool the turbo a little sooner. Makes sense. But mostly it will increase the crossflow ventilation during cam overlap, which means I can tolerate a longer overlap and get better breathing through higher rev ranges. It also means I can hold the exhaust valve closed through combustion a little longer.



peter
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
pschurr said:
My engine builder and I have decided to toss the sodium-filled exhaust valves, and run stainless steel 1mm oversize on the exhaust side.
peter
Will they be OK? The sodium valves are used to help cool the valve due to the excess heat in the exhaust gases of a tubo engine.
 
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